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Forum > Fitting Woes > Broad Shoulder Adj to also fix tight armscye? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Broad Shoulder Adj to also fix tight armscye?
MrsCharisma
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MrsCharisma  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Minnesota USA
Member since 2/1/13
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Date: 3/24/14 10:22 AM

After getting a gleeful response to her sweatshirt, I decided to make a woven tee for my daughter using McCalls 6927.

Based on finished measurements, I cut an 8 A/B cup. Got it to the point of needing hems and a neck binding and went to have her try it on. Well I don't know how she got the dang thing on because then she was whining for me to get her out of it!

It fit through the neck, bust, waist, hip but holy cow was it tight across the upper back. I couldn't even get a picture of her in it because she kept saying it "hurt her armpits".

So I seam-ripped her out of it via the CB seam. It was actually hilarious!

So, I now know that I need to do a broad-back adjustment on her but am wondering if it'll cure "tight armscye" as well.

------
Nakisha
www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

simplystitches
simplystitches
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Date: 3/24/14 12:21 PM

Yes!

Long story short I recently realized I needed a broad back adjustment on a jacket pattern I had been working on. Doing the adjustment made the back feel better, the armhole wasn't tight and the sleeve hung better.

The problem is knowing how much. What I did was make a cut parellel to the back sleeve (close to the middle of the shoulder seam) from the shoulder down to about the bottom of the armhole and let it spread and measured.

Now you just need to resew the cb seam and get your daughter back into it!!

Debbie

MrsCharisma
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MrsCharisma  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/24/14 1:36 PM

She's going to be traumatized! Lol!

Thanks Debbie! I will give it a shot. I probably should develop a bodice sloper for her for the experience of doing it and so that I can pinpoint all of her adjustments.

------
Nakisha
www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

susandf
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susandf
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Date: 3/24/14 3:48 PM

In my mother's words, my shoulders are "wider than a football player's!" (I was a swimmer and rowed crew)

When I was about 12 she started using a wide shoulder adjustment that I continue to use...

It involves cutting the front and back pattern down the middle of the shoulder and at right angles to the armscye. The pattern piece is then repositioned with extra added across the shoulder.

In my case 1" was added at the shoulder and the armscye kept the same size.

I know what that tight armhole feels like - but this adjustment provide relief!

.Tell her to be proud of the wide shoulders!


------
The Destashification Project - Stash Couture!

MrsCharisma
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MrsCharisma  Friend of PR
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Minnesota USA
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Date: 3/24/14 3:58 PM

Yay! I couldn't wrap my head around the why's of the armscye being affected but it makes sense. The back is pulling that fabric, trying to make room!

Oh gosh Susan she has the complete opposite body shape from me!

When I first started sewing, I'd somehow convinced myself that her being tall and thin meant sewing for her (vs myself) would be "easier" -- HA!!!

------
Nakisha
www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

dmh1
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Date: 3/24/14 5:25 PM

I'm rectangular, but used to be more of an inverted triangle (when I was thin) due to very broad shoulders and love of swimming. I've never fit into anything below a medium RTW shirt even when you could see all of my ribs, and now this is why I sew. The broad back adjustment should take care of many of these problems for her, and after doing that at least you'll be at a better place to address any other issues. Lucky girl to have a mom like you!

------
Michelle

SM: Janome DC2013 & Singer Futura Quintet
Serger: Janome Magnolia 7034D
Coverstitch: Singer 14T968DC

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