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Forum > Fitting Woes > Need a second opinion-Crooked pants hem ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Need a second opinion-Crooked pants hem
Knock knee ajustment or horizontal dart taken from side seam
StitchyMama
StitchyMama
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Date: 3/24/14 5:29 PM

Please excuse the mess, it's my daughter's bedroom

Surefit self-drafted pattern.
I tried to take the drag lines out by adding the back inseam but that just made the hem even more crooked. Then I tried to take a horizontal dart out of the side seam at the low hip and that just made it worse. So then I tried adding a wedge to the back inseam, but didn't even bother sewing it up because just looking at the pattern I knew it wouldn't work. So I'm back to the original seam lines and I've come to the conclusion that I'm just going to have to live with those drag lines.

To fix the hemline, do I need a knock knee adjustment or a wedge taken out of the ss at mid-thigh (below crotch)? For the most part it looks like my lines look straight. If I do the knock knee adjustment; should I do it higher than the knee (like upper thigh) which would add to the inseams and might help with those drag lines?
-- Edited on 3/24/14 5:34 PM --
-- Edited on 3/24/14 5:36 PM --
-- Edited on 3/24/14 5:37 PM --

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Brenda
My blog: Stitch 1 Stitch 2
Knitting/Sewing/Life in general
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beauturbo
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Date: 3/24/14 6:00 PM

The back side of pants legs hems do look a tad longer on the outside body (knee) edges of them to me. But you also get to just cut the edge of some fabric that might be hemmed up anyway you want. That's always a choice.

Maybe this is way too simple minded and not technical daft and change around all your patterns in complicated ways kind of thoughts, but I don't think that has to be exactly on straight horizontal grain there, just no matter how you body may be at all, or even what shoes you might choose to wear for a pants or shorts hem and why not just even them up on the outer body edge there, by taking a little off just where it needs it to be trimmed to be straight, with just scissor and not feel locked into the original cut line, and solve it quick like that instead?

Maybe there really is a good reason not to do that,and if someone knows one, maybe they will post. But, when you hem something, I think you can do that anyway you want. And you get to choose. And not stuck with anything at all either.

I could be way off base here, as to anyone else's thinking process, but that is just what I would do.

Also unless you are going to wear them barefoot or just with rubber flip flops always, if you are going to wear them the most with sneakers or maybe sandals you could try that too, as maybe it really would change a bit, just even depending on what shoes you are even wearing?
-- Edited on 3/24/14 6:08 PM --

PaulineN
PaulineN
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Date: 3/24/14 6:22 PM

I think the fit looks pretty good! And I agree with beauturbo- put your regular footwear on and see if the hems change. It can make a difference in the way a person's foot angles, and thus affects the stance of the rest of our bodies.

JTink
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In reply to StitchyMama <<
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Date: 3/24/14 6:55 PM

I remember seeing something like this a while back, only someone was having the problem with shorts. I can't remember what the "cure" was. Hopefully someone else with a better memory than mine, can find the thread.

Just a thought I'm going to toss out here, have you tried to release the inner leg seams a bit. Your back leg lines are aiming towards the inner leg...just a thought.

TailorsDen
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In reply to StitchyMama <<
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Date: 3/24/14 7:39 PM

You're almost there and I think the fix is really quite simple. Unfortunately I don't know how to add a pic to show you BUT if you were to take your pic into a editing program and draw a straight vertical line from mid knee on the back of your leg up to the waist, you can see that the grainline on your garment veeres off to the left considerably over the hip area.

This indicates that the CB seam should be taken in to the point where that vertical line DOES go straight up from the back of your knee. It will mean that you need more fabric on the outside side seam of your pant back but it should also correct most of those folds.

If you could have someone hold a yardstick with the edge up against your leg and positioned so that it falls down the middle of your leg (use knee as base guide), it will give you an idea of how much your garment grainline veeres off from the centre (and how much to add to your back side seams). It looks to be almost 1 - 1.5"?


You could try letting that back side seam out as much as possible and then taking the CB seam in just so you could see the effect on the wrinkles. You likely don't have enough side seam to get rid of them all but it should show you a difference.

My apologies again for not being able to post a pic to illustrate this but if you need one, email me privately and perhaps I can send it by regular email outside of PR?

Gayle



-- Edited on 3/24/14 7:40 PM --

StitchyMama
StitchyMama
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In reply to TailorsDen <<


Date: 3/24/14 8:40 PM

I was hoping to avoid multiple darts. I added to the side seams last year and had to put 2 darts in each side (front and back) to fit my waist and they look like pleats making me look bigger and the hem was still off. This pair fit my waist fairly well. I'm so frustrated; I always get so close but there was always something not quite right with everything I've sewn this winter.

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Brenda
My blog: Stitch 1 Stitch 2
Knitting/Sewing/Life in general
http://stitch1stitch2.blogspot.com/

kushami
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Date: 3/24/14 9:29 PM

Have you contacted Glenda at Sure-fit? From what I read on message boards, she is always ready to help out with fitting refinements :-)

goodworks1
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Date: 3/24/14 9:42 PM

I agree that you want your hem to be level with the ground.

You may need to do a facing for the hem to get it to lay flat and look nice though.

Personally I like faced hems as they seem to have a little more body in them and ride up a little less when walking.
-- Edited on 3/24/14 9:42 PM --

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simplystitches
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Date: 3/25/14 0:56 AM

Your grain line is pulling towards the inseam at the hem. The fabric is getting slightly hung up on the inner thigh and that's what's causing the wrinkles that are coming off the ss and the difference in the hem line. You need to add to the inseam of the back leg to get over the fuller inner thigh.

Your grain is straight through the waist and hip level. If you use a long straight edge lining up with the upper grain that will tell you how much to add to the inseam. Just measure how much the line is off at the hem. Then it's just a matter of a wedge added to the inseam.

Once you do that the hem will be level. Otherwise they look great!

Debbie

StitchyMama
StitchyMama
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In reply to simplystitches <<


Date: 3/25/14 8:05 AM

Debbie, when I add the wedge to the inseam where do I add it? Just under the crotch curve?

Remember this from last year? I have a sneaky suspicion cutting that peak is what's causing this problem.

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Brenda
My blog: Stitch 1 Stitch 2
Knitting/Sewing/Life in general
http://stitch1stitch2.blogspot.com/

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