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Forum > Fitting Woes > Vogue 8919 ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Vogue 8919
excess fabric under arms
Chopinzee
Chopinzee  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/30/14 5:47 PM

I seem to end up in the "fitting woes" section with every project lately... this one is actually not as bad as the last few, which I completely abandoned due to fit issues. I think it would be wearable if I could somehow get rid of the extra fabric that's pooling under the arms--any suggestions? Thanks for bearing with me... I feel like I'm on the road to figuring out what my fitting problems are thanks to you PR folks! Here are some pics--it was hard to get any without the camera covering up one side, but you can see the issue on the other side. Excuse all the unpressed seams and unfinished edges!





-- Edited on 3/30/14 5:51 PM --

frame
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In reply to Chopinzee <<
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Date: 3/30/14 5:50 PM

Your picture links aren't working. I was able to access by using this link:

Picture 1


Links working now.

ETA: Oops, I forgot to say I think it's too big on top for you. Is that good news or bad?
Sorry, I'm not very good at helping people fix this stuff. There are people here that are very good at this and I'm sure they will pop in soon enough.

I think the dress looks great other than the sleeve/bust part on the side there.




-- Edited on 3/30/14 6:04 PM --

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"framed" was taken
"I meant what I said, and I said what I meant." - Horton(Dr. Seuss)

Chopinzee
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Date: 3/30/14 5:52 PM

Thanks, think I fixed the picture links--hopefully they're working now?

Chopinzee
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In reply to frame <<


Date: 3/30/14 6:08 PM

Thanks frame! I think I'm gonna interpret anything "too big" as good news, hehe... I've been cutting size 12 above the waist based on an upper bust measurement of 34, but so far quite a few of the patterns I've made up (although not all) have been too big on top--so maybe I should be cutting a 10. My hips are a size 16.

Elona
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In reply to Chopinzee <<
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Date: 3/30/14 6:10 PM

The sleeve on this pattern is a cut-on or kimono sleeve. It does not have the armscye seams which give you a chance to shape the contours of this part of the pattern more closely to your own body.

Take a look at the second and third sleeve types shown on the upper part of this page. The author notes that with kimono and raglan type sleeves, underarm wrinkles are inherent.

You can refine the fit somewhat by sewing the sideseam/underarm seam gradually deeper, so it's closer to your armpit (Sandra Betzina suggests going no deeper than 1/4" per attempt). This will take out some of the extra fabric and bring that seam closer to your body--but it does not solve the basic problem.

With kimono and raglans, you pretty much have to expect some wrinkling up there.

Chopinzee
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Date: 4/1/14 0:36 AM

Sigh, that's what I was afraid of... guess I'd better try something with an underarm seam next. Thanks for the info, Elona--I tried raising the seams under the arms a bit, and it didn't seem to do the trick in this case--there were still flaps of fabric, just higher up. I wonder if it would help to cut off the sleeves entirely?

KathySews
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Date: 4/1/14 8:15 AM

The dress looks very nice. The extra fabric look is just the way raglan sleeves are. I think it is a combination of the fabric and the pattern kind of fighting each other. Meaning maybe the fabric is a bit heavy so it has more pronounced folds? A good pressing and some great accessories and you will look fine.

Many images of this dress

Nancy K
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In reply to KathySews <<
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Date: 4/1/14 10:05 PM

I agree that the wrinkles are exactly the same as the patterns photo. I am not sure that the wrinkles at the bust couldn't be improved on. I'd see if pinning in a side dart helps.

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Chopinzee
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Date: 4/2/14 1:14 AM

thanks Kathy and Nancy! I agree that the folds are more obvious in the heavy ponte knit I used. I have a few RTW kimono-sleeve tops that are really drapey in that area and they look okay because of the thinner fabric. I tried pinning out a bust dart, and it definitely helped--there were still vertical folds, but they were more "normal" looking. Took a few photos and then realized I couldn't find my camera's card reader...It kinda made that area into a few tiny folds instead of one giant huge fold that I could put a baby kangaroo in. I'm totally inexperienced with adding darts, and one thing I wasn't sure of was where the dart legs should end--they seemed to be heading up under my armpit when I just pinched out the excess fabric. I'm guessing that alteration (adding a bust dart) would have to be done on the pattern itself before cutting?

I've also been eyeing Vogue 8972 (with the long sleeves and full skirt) as an alternative to this pattern--it still has the cool curved seamlines but it has an armhole seam as well, and suggests "ponte knit" as a fabric option. I really want a comfy warm ponte knit dress that I can pretend is formal but that feels like a sweatshirt.

m/m

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Date: 4/2/14 6:03 AM

I wondered about the bust shaping too. Your pictures have two sets of folds (one from the sleeve style and one for the bust ). I'm glad you tried adding a dart.

You could use standard techniques for moving the additional shaping created by the dart into a seam. Because of the way the sleeves are set into the body it would take a bit of thinking to figure out where to move the fullness. You might be able to move the dart shaping similar to the way you'd move it for a princess seamed garment. It's hard to tell without seeing the actual pattern. Texas A&M has directions for adding darts to kimono and princess shaped tops at http://repository.tamu.edu/bitstream/handle/1969.1/87748/pdf_689.pdf .

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