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Forum > Fitting Woes > Large bust, tiny hips and waist - help ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Large bust, tiny hips and waist - help
Full Bust Adjustment Preserving Small Waist and Hips
lizzieblatt
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lizzieblatt  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/1/14 4:15 PM

Does anyone know where I can find the solution to making a full-bust adjustment WITHOUT changing the original waistline on a pattern? I've scoured my extensive library, and spent hours online, but can find nothing. I would gladly shell out for a book or DVD that tells you how to do it. Anybody have any ideas?

lalalauren
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lalalauren
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Date: 4/1/14 5:22 PM

Yay! Something I can help with in this forum - usually I am the one asking for help!

Let me start with this discussion. And now let me tell you what works for me :)

If you have a pattern with a princess seam, do your usual FBA and take the extra you added off the side seam. This has worked fine in my experience, however, if you are matching darts, pleats or princess seams in a skirt you might want to take some flat pattern measurements to make sure everything will still line up. I think the most I've ever done is re-position some pleats. A basted fitting will help you out here.

Try this tutorial for princess seams.

Now for a darted bodice, I found this method the other day but I can't say I've tried it.

I think you can use the traditional FBA method but you have to make sure you use the original dart legs when re-drawing your darts, because that encompasses the old dart intake, plus what you have added (assuming you slashed through the middle of an existing dart.

The trouble I find with FBAs on darted bodices is they make the existing darts massive and I often have trouble sewing darts that are so large without getting some dimples right where you don't want them.

You might find splitting the dart into two smaller darts gives you a nicer shape. This tutorial on the Coletterie will show you how to do that.

And finally, one pointer (pun intended) I would give is to not persist with darts if they are really giving you hell. I am quite busty myself (10" between my full bust and my waist, and I'm short-waisted), and I can't get a really good close-fitting garment without princess seams.

I have successfully used this fantastic method of converting darts to princess seams with much success. Just remember to make a muslin :)

Hopefully some of this information is of use to you! I sympathise - full busts are hard to fit! Good luck!

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a7yrstitch
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a7yrstitch  Friend of PR
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In reply to lizzieblatt <<
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Date: 4/1/14 5:26 PM

Please check Darts for Shaping, Darts for Fitting, in the sewing Tips and Techniques section of the message board. PR member, sfshaza, may have the solution for you. (Page three of thread.)
...........
Adding - Lalalauren, great resources!
-- Edited on 4/1/14 5:29 PM --

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I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to lizzieblatt <<
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Date: 4/1/14 9:55 PM

I see that Shams hasn't commented, but this topic has been discussed before and she has given her very good advice. She has a quite large bust and very narrow hips. If you go to her blog and search, she has done some excellent posts on fitting her bust and narrow hips.Communing with Fabric

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meleliza
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meleliza  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/1/14 10:05 PM

This is something I have a lot of experience with as well and while my big boob days are sadly behind me, I learned a lot in those years. I think you have some good advice above. In addition, I would say that not every style is for every figure. You will need a pattern that offers waist definition. Loose and flowly is difficult to achieve in a flattering way when you have a large bust but smaller everything else, though if you're small in the hip too you might get away with loose and flowy with skinny jeans. If a pattern already has a large dart and you need a large increase it just may not work. Princess seams are easier to fit for sure, but not always perfect. I have a really narrow ribcage, so the curve of the full bust drops off really steeply and princess seams might leave a pucker. Splitting the dart is a good option for large increases. Remember that a dart can be changed into gathers and tucks too, and the fullness can be distributed over the waist, bust and shoulder or whatever combination of those work for you.

A full bust adjustment in the basic way with a fully fashioned bodice with waist line darts shouldn't change the waistline. So I guess the real answer to your question is that it depends on the pattern in question.

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Melanie

tinflutterby
tinflutterby  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/2/14 0:16 AM

I usually cut the skirt off before I do my FBA. The tissue is easier to handle, the hem stays the right size and I don't have to go back and remove adjustments I added. For some styles leaving the new waistline seam in may be the best answer fitting the upper bodice to the original waist with a combination of darts (probably more than one) easing and gathers. A side dart can help a lot too. It seems to me that retro patterns that were drafted when undergarments made most women have significantly smaller waists also usually have princess, empire or waist seams probably for this reason.

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