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Forum > Fitting Woes > FBA, hollow chest and gaping ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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FBA, hollow chest and gaping
Celticstitcher
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Celticstitcher
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Date: 4/3/14 2:53 PM

I have a gaping problem seen here, I need a very large FBA - 2.5" each side and have relatively narrow shoulders, particularly at the neck, I also have a hollow chest above the girls, almost no flesh cover there at all leaving a strange 'dip' between shoulder and bust. I see this as a change in gradient and realise that there is too much fabric along the neckline edge.

I've noticed this before but assumed that I'd made a mistake somewhere with all my alterations, but it's happened again and I just can't figure out how to fix it.

hope someone can help
Hazel

JTink
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JTink
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In reply to Celticstitcher <<


Date: 4/3/14 3:18 PM

I was wondering if you could fold out the extra material between the shoulder and breast. Something like a Petite adjustment that would be done to raise a waistline.

AllNewtoMe
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Date: 4/3/14 3:49 PM

I have the same issue. What I end up doing is folding out the amount I need at the neckline and putting that excess into the bust dart. Yes, this will make your dart EVEN BIGGER (when I saw how big--being an F cup--I thought I'd made a mistake). I thought it wasn't going to work the first time I did it, but it did and it does. Now I just do it immediately to woven fabric patterns.
-- Edited on 4/3/14 3:50 PM --

Celticstitcher
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In reply to JTink <<


Date: 4/3/14 4:07 PM

I've already taken 1/2" out maybe I should take more out at the centre than at the armscrye.

thank you x

Celticstitcher
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In reply to AllNewtoMe <<


Date: 4/3/14 4:09 PM

thank you, I may try this, I could then tranfer it out in my princess seam x

JTink
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Date: 4/3/14 6:30 PM

I was thinking of making a slice from the neck line to, but not through the princess seam(on the pattern not on the fabric ). I would then fold out the amount you need to at the neck line and graduate to nothing by the time you get to the princess seam. Then just true up the neck line. I've had to do this before, because I'm "short" between the bust and shoulder.
-- Edited on 4/3/14 6:31 PM --

goosegreen
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Date: 4/3/14 7:09 PM

Are you short? Cos I always have to do this gaposis tuck in the neckline. I too am hollow above the girls and always need an FBA.
That first photo is at a funny angle but you seem to be VERY short above the bust. Can I also mention that your shoulder seems appear a little long. Maybe you're using the wrong size? A smaller size (& yes, with a bigger FBA) would give you a better neck/shoulder result. It's going to be trial and error for you I'm afraid. With many many muslins!

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Alison in suburbia - Sydney Australia
My sewing blog: http://nosilasews.blogspot.com/

Keeper of the flock - Janome MC8000, Janome MC4900QC, Elna Elina 40, Husqvarna Rose, Singer 201K, Elna Contessa, Janome My Excel 18W, Janome 634D & 534D overlockers, Janome Coverpro 1000CPX.

beauturbo
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In reply to Celticstitcher <<


Date: 4/3/14 9:55 PM

Could it be partially a undergarment issue? Your bustline looks very high up on you. Higher than a lot of people, and so unless that really is that way without even the bra on, that might figure into the pushing up of the sides of the neckline on the blouse there too. I wounder if you just loosened up your bra straps even a bit, if that would lower your breasts enough and get rid of some of that hollow between your upper chest and shoulders, and if you did that then maybe the neckline of the same blouse would not be pushed up like that, and even fit better. Have you tried that?

Nancy K
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In reply to Celticstitcher <<
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Date: 4/4/14 6:40 PM

First of all, you need to take better pictures. It's hard to see what's going on because the photos are too close up. You need front, side, back, side all taken straight on, not from above or below.
Secondly, it's easier to see what's going on in a plain fabric with horizontal balance line at the cross chest and between the bust and the waist. Also a grain line should be marked as well. All of these should be visible on the right side and in the photos. YOu need to work to get these lines perpendicular and parallel to the floor.
The excess in the neckline is not unusual. You need to dart it out and rotate it into another dart at a typical dart location.
The drag lines under the bust make me think that your fullness is not where you need it.

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

JTink
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In reply to Celticstitcher <<
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Date: 4/4/14 7:04 PM

I think your pictures are fine. I can see what you are questioning. Have you had a chance to try some of our suggestions yet?

I don't rotate my neck dart anywhere.

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