SIGNUP - FREE Membership and 1 FREE Sewing Lesson
| FAQ | Login
 

Forum > Fitting Woes > When is a pattern just too small? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
When is a pattern just too small?
alpenrose
alpenrose  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Member since 11/5/13
Posts: 148
Send Message

      



Date: 4/6/14 3:35 PM

I am working on the Vogue 1004 bodice. I ordered a size 20 because I have 44DD bust but the bone frame is small. I knew I would have to do FBA, but the side seams still do not fit!! (Boy am I embarassed!

HOWEVER, it fits at the neck and the shoulder is too long (shessh) Sooo, if I add an inch down the center front that will help; take most of the fabric out of the waist darts will help some, but I still need about an 1 1/2 inch on each side seam. Can I just extend the seam straight down the side seams? Is there a point of no return? Should I just go and buy the bigger size--even though that doesn't come near to my sizes either. I haven't even started to think about the skirt part of this thing? I will mostly be sewing tops tailored blouses and tunics and such. Is there a way to increase the bust without increasing the neck? I don't want to always have to have neck darts. Thank you!!

Speech girl
starstar
Speech girl  Friend of PR
Intermediate
GA USA
Member since 5/11/03
Posts: 2231
online now
Send Message

      



Date: 4/6/14 9:34 PM

If your garment fits in the neck and upper chest, that is a good size to start with. It sounds like you need to alter the shoulders to fit, though.

Don't add to the center seam. Your FBA added width, you do not have to take it all out in the waist darts if you don't need to-- you can sew them as smaller darts. You can add the rest to the side seams. How does the back fit? Would a broad shoulder alteration help? If not, divide the extra ease needed by four and add that amount to each side seam, tapering out below the bust if that works.

Do you have a book on fitting?

------
Kim
formerly mikkim
http://girlwithatimemachine.wordpress.com/

SewLibra
star
SewLibra  Friend of PR
Intermediate
CA USA
Member since 12/2/08
Posts: 708
Send Message

      



In reply to alpenrose <<


Date: 4/7/14 0:47 AM

If the shoulders and upper bust of the pattern fit, that would indicate the correct size. If properly done, the FBA does not change the neck or armscye size. It will, however, increase the width at the lower half of the bodice and hem, which may not be wanted. I have a recent post asking for help with the way I do FBAs, and got some very helpful feedback. Maybe it will help you too. FBA Discussion Here.

------
SewLibra
Brother SB4138, Bernina 1008, Brother 1034D, Janome Harmony 9102D

alpenrose
alpenrose  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Member since 11/5/13
Posts: 148
Send Message

      
thumbsup 1 member likes this.



Date: 4/7/14 1:23 AM

Thank you ladies:
Yes, I think a broad shoulder adjustment would help, I plan to take out the vertical darts from the waist and make them much shallower. I will also add fabric to the side seam from the armscye down--the arm scye seems to be correct, but I won't know until I add a broad back adjustment. I think however, I still need more FBA. I did that adjustment according to the instructions on the pattern and they were not the same as is usually recommended in other books. Which system do you use? Is there a limit to how much fabric I can add to the side seams for the front bodice pieces? Thank you again.

Nancy K
starstarstar
Nancy K
Advanced
NY USA
Member since 12/28/04
Posts: 8211
Send Message

      



In reply to alpenrose <<


Date: 4/7/14 5:52 PM

Don't add to the cf and yes you can add to the side seams. Did you buy your pattern using the upper bust measurement? You will need an fba and that adds width to the front. I add to the back for the size I need in the body. If you have to make a large fba this will usually add enough width in the lower body. If not just add to the side seams, though won't add at the bust just blend it out to the larger size.

------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview

printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Fitting Woes >> When is a pattern just too small?

 
adv. search»
pattern | machine | member
        
Altering Pants
Altering Pants

Register

Clone Your Favorite Garment
Clone Your Favorite Garment

Register

Vogue Patterns 1312

photo
by: Graca

Review
Sew Liberated Flora Tunic and Twirly Skirt

Sew Liberated Flora Tunic and Twirly Skirt

Buy Now
Petite Plus 651 Pattern

Petite Plus 651 Pattern

Buy Now

Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Shipping Rates | Returns & Refunds | Contact Us | About | New To PR | Advertising

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.