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Forum > Fitting Woes > What's Wrong With This Sleeve? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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What's Wrong With This Sleeve?
Fitting a Jacket Muslin
blissing
blissing
Member since 4/19/12
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Date: 4/8/14 9:55 PM

I can't figure this out. I made this already in denim (reviewed here) and want to make it in ultrex so I need to figure out what's wrong.

Is it too big? I took in the bodice a little but the sleeve drapes towards the front. Look at the left sleeve. I can't stand it!




-- Edited on 4/8/14 10:00 PM --

simplystitches
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Date: 4/8/14 10:23 PM

You're always going to get a bit of a twist in a one piece sleeve but that's a bit excessive!

Two thoughts- Are the sleeve notch and shoulder seam matched?

When you took in the bodice exactly how much and where in relation to the armhole? Same amount front and back bodice at the underarm or???

Debbie

AdaH
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Date: 4/8/14 10:57 PM

SimplyStitches is correct, a one piece sleeve is always going to have a bit of a twist, however I think you sleeve has a bit much.
Look at the diagonal wrinkle. It is pointing at the top of the sleeve cap. I would release the stitching line from notch to notch then move that cap around till most of the wrinkles are gone. See if that helps.
-- Edited on 4/8/14 10:59 PM --


Googled diagonal wrinkles in the sleeve and found this:
Sleeves

Wrinkles from underarm to sleeve top indicate that the sleeve cap is too short.
Diagonal wrinkles in sleeve cap can be a sign that the sleeve is set in crooked.
Lengthwise wrinkles in upper sleeve often mean the sleeve is too full.
-- Edited on 4/8/14 11:17 PM --

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Ada

MartiP
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Subject: Whats Wrong With This Sleeve? Date: 4/8/14 11:11 PM

Were both sleeves cut the same? In other words, was one cut the reverse of the other?

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blissing
blissing
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Date: 4/8/14 11:26 PM

In my first version, I felt like if I rotated the sleeve back it would take care of it, so I tried it on this muslin. IOW, the top notch is moved towards the back one inch.

I only took in the bodice about an inch on the front.

I thought maybe I'd made two left sleeves in the first version, or somehow reversed them, but I know I didn't on this muslin.

Thanks for the tips! I'll try something and post back.
-- Edited on 4/8/14 11:28 PM --

Andee
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Date: 4/9/14 6:52 AM

The sleeve does look too big. If you took the bodice in at the side seam, you should take the sleeve seam in the same amount, at least at the top of the sleeve where it meets the armhole. And it look as if the easing is not evenly distributed.

Nancy K
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In reply to blissing <<
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Date: 4/9/14 11:51 AM

First, is this supposed to have a shoulder pad? Most jackets are drafted for a pad and if you fit it without one you'll have some fitting issues. That said, I don't think that that's the problem. Undo the stitching from notch to notch and drop it down. If the drag lines disappear you need a higher sleeve cap. I had this issue in a coat I was making and this was the fix. If your drag lines are only in back or front then it's a rotation issue, but your's look like you are having them front and back.

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lca
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Subject: Whats Wrong With This Sleeve? Date: 4/9/14 1:25 PM

I agree, sleeve cap issue.

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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Date: 4/13/14 7:37 PM

I think the sleeve cap is too short, too wide and sleeve needs to be rotated too

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