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Stretch & Sew 1536 New Princess Dress
Armhole too big
shelleyjr
shelleyjr
Intermediate
New Mexico USA
Member since 5/10/09
Posts: 63
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Date: 4/10/14 7:41 PM

I am trying to make a princess line dress for my step daughters wedding.

I gave up on Simplicity 2247 (Amazing Mis-fit!)

See how much excess fabric there is in the armscye? I am using a knit fabric so part of the problem is that Simplicity 2247 isn't designed for knits. However, even if I were to make this in a woven I don't think it would fit. I took 4 inches out of this pattern. This is the Simplicity pattern with my altered pattern pieces on top. See how much I had to adjust and it still didn't fit, look at the photo above in lime green!


So now I am having the same trouble with Stretch & Sew 1536 which IS designed for knits. I traced it out of velum and did a tissue fitting and can see it is going to be too wide across the upper chest and the armscye.

I traced a size 36 according to my full bust measurement at the sides but tapered to a 34 at the shoulder seam and neck. My front measurement from arm crease to arm crease is 13". According to Nancy Zieman that would be a size 10. This is why I taper in the armscye to a 34. I am making view A jewel neckline but the shorter length and sleeveless. (Houston in August is going to be hot!)


So does anyone have a good reference book or online instructions on how to fix this? FYI, both of these patterns are princess lines going into the armscye. So a visual on doing the adjustment at the armscye would really be great. Thanks for any help, I am clueless on how to fix this.

-- Edited on 4/10/14 7:56 PM --

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VivianZ
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VivianZ  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/11/14 6:36 AM

Not seeing how the fit is in the back, my immediate solution would be to undo the seam right there in the arm, down to the bust and take up the extra from the bottom. I would not cut anything until you get a fit you could live with. So the top piece of the princess seam stays the size it is, just the lower piece gets taken in. But rip the seam out to the bust, and pin out the bottom extra, try it on, baste , try it on, then when you get the fit, only then cut it. Good luck. It might not work as you also changed the shoulder seam length which would affect the fit.

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height 5'2" bust 36, waist 31, hip 39.
I have way too many yards to count, and I will never use them up, but I will die trying!

shelleyjr
shelleyjr
Intermediate
New Mexico USA
Member since 5/10/09
Posts: 63
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In reply to VivianZ <<


Date: 4/11/14 11:26 AM

Thank you what you said makes sense. I have made so many changes I am starting to think I should resume my sure fit solper and cut a princess seam dress from it. I am on my 5th solper with sure fit so I don't even have that perfected.

One thing I have noticed in All of these patterns is the width at the shoulder line and upper chest is always too wide for me. I'm a granny but don't want granny shoulders, meaning those wide shoulder lines. It is just a personal preference however the upper chest width cuts into my arms and is uncomfortable. So I have a problem getting the whole thing to work with my 34D bust. This has always been my fitting issue.

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Juki Exceed HZL-F600
Juki MO-734-DE
Does this make me a Juki junkie?

Debbie Lancaster
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Debbie Lancaster  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/11/14 1:24 PM

I'd think about a different pattern. The pattern illustration on the S&S shows football shoulders and a very low armscye. It's from the 1990s and reflects the style of that time period.

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Debbie

lca
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lca  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/11/14 2:44 PM

You mention a D cup! Are you making a pattern that has a D cup option? Armholes gap when a cup size is too small.

CM_Sews
CM_Sews
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In reply to shelleyjr <<


Date: 4/11/14 3:04 PM

Quote: shelleyjr
[...]
One thing I have noticed in All of these patterns is the width at the shoulder line and upper chest is always too wide for me. I'm a granny but don't want granny shoulders, meaning those wide shoulder lines. It is just a personal preference however the upper chest width cuts into my arms and is uncomfortable. So I have a problem getting the whole thing to work with my 34D bust. This has always been my fitting issue.

The Stretch and Sew patterns include the shoulder widths and arm lengths for which each size is drafted. I wish all pattern companies included this information; it would have saved me hours of grief and frustration.

After decades of sewing and buying clothes, I only recently figured out that I have narrow shoulders, and arms slightly longer than the "standard" fit model, both in patterns and RTW.

I've become a huge fan of S&S, because I can pick a pattern for my full bust (this is how S&S patterns are sized), then look at the shoulder width for that size, subtract my actual shoulder width, and know how much I need to alter the shoulder (I use the pivot and slide method for this alteration). So I need a 46 (my full bust measurement); shoulder width for that size is 17-1/2 inches (may vary by the pattern; I always check). My actual shoulder width is 16, so I need to narrow the shoulder seam by 3/4-inch (half of the 1 1/2-inch difference across the entire shoulder width).

If I'm working with a vintage style with wide shoulders as part of the style, I may take another inch (or so) off the shoulder seam to . Then I ADD the "removed" 3/4-inch or 1 3/4-inch into the sleeve length, and add another 1-inch to the sleeve length to account for my longer arms.

Only recently in my sewing career have I tackled problems with fit. These simple alterations, which I've determined easily by the measurements on the S&S patterns, have given me the biggest improvement in fit of anything I've tried so far.

CMC
shelleyjr
shelleyjr
Intermediate
New Mexico USA
Member since 5/10/09
Posts: 63
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In reply to Debbie Lancaster <<


Date: 4/11/14 5:30 PM

Hi Debbie,

You are right, this pattern is outdated. The football shoulders are the last thing that I would want.

I worked on my Sure Fit sloper today. I still have issues with it but I hope that Glenda will help in getting them resolved. This is my 5th blueprint! It isn't easy by any means. But if I can get a sloper fitted then just maybe I could make that into a princess line dress.

Thanks for your input.

------
Juki Exceed HZL-F600
Juki MO-734-DE
Does this make me a Juki junkie?

shelleyjr
shelleyjr
Intermediate
New Mexico USA
Member since 5/10/09
Posts: 63
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In reply to lca <<


Date: 4/11/14 5:37 PM

Ica,

Yes, I used the D cup sized pattern pieces on the lime green top! Did you see how much I had to hack at it to get it where it is? Check out the photo above with the tissue pattern pieces to my white pattern pieces. This is a new style by Simplicity 2247 so compared to the S&S pattern you would have thought the shoulders and upper chest would fit better. NOT the case.

------
Juki Exceed HZL-F600
Juki MO-734-DE
Does this make me a Juki junkie?

shelleyjr
shelleyjr
Intermediate
New Mexico USA
Member since 5/10/09
Posts: 63
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In reply to CM_Sews <<


Date: 4/11/14 5:43 PM

Hi CM,

The reason I got the S&S pattern is 2 fold, one they are designed for knits which is what I plan to use to make my dress, and 2 I have always had better luck in fitting. I worked for S&S back in the 80's and always liked the way their patterns fit.

Although, this princess dress pattern is antiquated for sure. Like Debbie said it has football shoulders! But that is just part of my problem, I need to figure out how to make the front upper chest less wide, because it cuts into my arm. So uncomfortable and I also like a medium width shoulder line not skinny not granny style.

------
Juki Exceed HZL-F600
Juki MO-734-DE
Does this make me a Juki junkie?

EleanorSews
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Date: 4/11/14 5:45 PM

Have you also adjusted for correct bust apex position? That was helpful in correcting for extra fullness for me.

At some point in time you might consider taking a bust fitting class.

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"We don't see things as they are, we see them as we are." Anais Nin

"Attitude is the difference between an adventure and an ordeal." unknown

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