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Forum > Fitting Woes > adjusting for gapping at center back on t-shirt ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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adjusting for gapping at center back on t-shirt
how to eliminate gapping
avatrx

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Date: 4/11/14 9:37 AM

I just made a Silhouette t-shirt from the Silhouette sweter set pattern #195. Since the bust dart was too high on the last one I made and I had to lower it - this time I just added 1" to the lenth using the l/s line at the top. That seemed to work fine but I still have to refine this top. The back gaps almost 2" at the very top and that gap continues down to OK about 5-7 inches below the neckline.

this pattern has you cut the back on the fold. How do I make allowances to eliminate the gap without having to add a seam to the back? If I just re-do the pattern and move the center back in - starting at the top and then tapering to nothing about 5-7 inches down - won't that cause the entire garment to shift?

I posted this question on the Silhouette friends Yahoo site, but thought perhaps someone out here might have a good idea? Aside from the gap in the back at the top - the top fits fine............ If I don't stand up straight - it also fits fine, but if I try to stand erect like I should - that causes the gapping.

How will adjustments to the center back affect sleeves or armhole edges? the bulk of the gap is at the very top.....I'd have to make a dart that when folded (a typical dart) would measure about 1" across at the wide part....

JTink
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Date: 4/11/14 2:51 PM

I'm going to "bump" this so some other folks will chime in.

I have this problem too. Most often it's considered part of a rounded back situation. I just have a small neck. I generally make a center back seam.

I've also found that if I pinch out at the shoulder line near the neck edge, it helps to eliminate some of the gap. In other words, you would make the seam a little larger at the neck edge(kind of what you would do for a slopping shoulder adjustment, but not at the arm side of the shoulder).

Sarah Veblen shows this method on page 171 of her Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting book.

kkkkaty
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Date: 4/11/14 3:10 PM

I think you can make some small darts in the pattern (not the fabric) before you cut the fabric out. You'd then press the pattern to smoosh out the darts and make it nice and flat again. Really.
I think this concept came from Marcy Tilton, but can't swear to that...

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avatrx

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Date: 4/11/14 4:13 PM

thanks for the suggestions! they both would most likely work. I would like to eliminate having a center back seam if possible unless I want to make a chevron top.

As for this one. would you think that if I add sleeves - the sleeves might help to pull in the slack of the top?

The same pattern is used for both the t-shirt AND the sweater over it. the main difference is that one has sleeves and buttons up the front.

helenkosings
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Date: 4/11/14 6:06 PM

You could also try pulling up some on the shoulders in back - say 1/2" on the neck edge, tapering to nothing at the sleeve edge. This works sometimes when other back neck alterations do not.

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JTink
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In reply to avatrx <<


Date: 4/11/14 7:14 PM

avatrx, adding the sleeves will help a little. But as soon as you move your shoulders, the gap will probably reappear. I have also made the little darts in the pattern as KKKKaty mentioned.

Helen, said what I was trying to earlier, about taking in the shoulder seam...she said it much better

I guess, bottom line, you have to play with it a bit.

Andi
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Date: 4/11/14 9:46 PM

You could try taking in 2 Inches all the way down the back, and add what you need back to the side seams. I am sure that doesn't make sense!

Nancy K
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Date: 4/11/14 9:54 PM

The gaping that you are describing is usually from a rounded upper back. The best way is to add a cb seam to accommodate the alteration that you need.

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avatrx

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In reply to Andi <<


Date: 4/12/14 8:55 AM

Quote:
You could try taking in 2 Inches all the way down the back, and add what you need back to the side seams.


actually that does makes sense......
avatrx

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In reply to Nancy K <<


Date: 4/12/14 8:58 AM

Quote: Nancy K
The gaping that you are describing is usually from a rounded upper back. The best way is to add a cb seam to accommodate the alteration that you need.

I guess I don't know what a rounded back looks like. If I stand straight without paying attention to my posture - the top fits OK. it's when i make an effort to stand erect (like we learned when we were young and had to walk around with a book on our head?) that's when it gaps.

so does rounded mean rounded 'in'?

On most patterns the neck edge - neck to shoulder is too wide by about 1/2 - 3/4". I guess that means I have narrow shoulders. could that be part of the problem? the shoulder seam on this seems to fall where it should.......
-- Edited on 4/12/14 9:00 AM --
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