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Scout Woven Tee
a couple of fitting issues
schmammy
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schmammy  Friend of PR
Texas USA
Member since 12/5/06
Posts: 948
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Date: 4/21/14 8:53 AM

I'm finally getting around to making the Scout Woven Tee from Grainline Studios. The muslin revealed two glaring issues: prominent fold/wrinkle from bust to side seam and too long shoulder seam. At the risk of morphing this top away from the Tee concept, I'm making a few changes (which I'll address in my review).

I can't find any mention of shoulder seam issues in existing reviews, but removing almost 1" (size 18) and redrawing the armhole (a la Nancy's Notions) yielded a vast improvement.

I'd love to hear from anyone with a larger bust (40D) who's made this top. That bust fold is visible in many review photos even on women with proportionate bustlines. Because I'm pretty sure it would bother me, I've pinched out a small dart. Someone mentioned the possibility that the armhole drafting accounts for being able to avoid adding a dart. Interesting, but not applicable for fuller busts.

------
Indecision may or may not be my problem. -Jimmy Buffet

http://chihuahuaonmylap.blogspot.com/

dmh1
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dmh1
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North Carolina USA
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In reply to schmammy <<


Date: 4/21/14 9:27 AM

I'm a 40c/d and found the same bust issue when making up the scout. I was planning on using a dart to deal with it, but gave it up temporarily, as I also had issues with how the sleeve/shoulder was fitting me. Sounds like we had similar problems. My muslin is still in my "to conquer" pile, but maybe I'll pull it out and give it another go.

------
Michelle

SM: Janome DC2013 & Singer Futura Quintet
Serger: Janome Magnolia 7034D
Coverstitch: Singer 14T968DC

Sewliz
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Sewliz  Friend of PR
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In reply to schmammy <<


Date: 4/21/14 10:12 AM

With a barely A sized bust I aslo have a prominent fold going from bust to side seam although it is a diagonal one as if I needed a large french dart. I find this odd and feel like it is something related to the drafting of the back but haven't figured it out. Sizes 4-8 that I am working with seem narrow in the shoulders to me and I don't have wide shoulders. Interesting that you have a width problem.

------
Liz

thefittinglife.blogspot.com

schmammy
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schmammy  Friend of PR
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In reply to dmh1 <<


Date: 4/21/14 10:12 AM

hmmmm, do you think the shoulder seam length contributed to your sleeve/shoulder fit problem?

------
Indecision may or may not be my problem. -Jimmy Buffet

http://chihuahuaonmylap.blogspot.com/

schmammy
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schmammy  Friend of PR
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Member since 12/5/06
Posts: 948
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In reply to Sewliz <<


Date: 4/21/14 10:14 AM

Exactly! A diagonal fold. So, do you think this is simply the nature of a woven tee?

------
Indecision may or may not be my problem. -Jimmy Buffet

http://chihuahuaonmylap.blogspot.com/

dmh1
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dmh1
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North Carolina USA
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In reply to schmammy <<


Date: 4/21/14 11:37 AM

Quote: schmammy
hmmmm, do you think the shoulder seam length contributed to your sleeve/shoulder fit problem?

I do think the shoulder seam length was too long and contributed to the fit problem. I was actually thinking of going down to a smaller size and grading out for the bust area to see if that helped. I have pretty skinny arms, too, so clothes that fit my broad torso are usually too big on the arms/shoulders.

------
Michelle

SM: Janome DC2013 & Singer Futura Quintet
Serger: Janome Magnolia 7034D
Coverstitch: Singer 14T968DC

dmh1
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dmh1
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North Carolina USA
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In reply to schmammy <<


Date: 4/21/14 11:39 AM

You've inspired me now, I'm gonna cut out another one today and hopefully get it stitched up tomorrow to see what's going on (I'd ripped out some of the seams on the old one before I threw it in the pile ).

------
Michelle

SM: Janome DC2013 & Singer Futura Quintet
Serger: Janome Magnolia 7034D
Coverstitch: Singer 14T968DC

schmammy
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schmammy  Friend of PR
Texas USA
Member since 12/5/06
Posts: 948
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In reply to dmh1 <<


Date: 4/21/14 7:11 PM

Yay you! I engineered the redrawn shoulder/armhole onto my muslin, stitched it and tried it on today. I didn't attach the sleeve, but am pretty confident it will work. I also added diagonal darts (are they called French darts?). I finally saw the doctor with this sinus infection, so maybe I'll feel up to cutting and sewing tomorrow. What fabric are you using?

------
Indecision may or may not be my problem. -Jimmy Buffet

http://chihuahuaonmylap.blogspot.com/

dmh1
star
dmh1
Intermediate
North Carolina USA
Member since 1/13/13
Posts: 910
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In reply to schmammy <<


Date: 4/21/14 7:19 PM

Ugh, sorry about your sinus infection. Those are truly the pits. Hope you feel better soon.

I'm using a pale blue cotton voile I've had in my stash forever. Hopefully it will work well. I've got everything cut out and I'm all ready to sew up tomorrow. Most of my sewing mojo was sucked up today mending a pair of pants for my mom. I am so bummed out when I realize the shoddy quality that I used to shell out so much money for! Grrr. But I'm glad that I at least know how to fix some of the issues in RTW now!

I look forward to hearing how you fare tomorrow

------
Michelle

SM: Janome DC2013 & Singer Futura Quintet
Serger: Janome Magnolia 7034D
Coverstitch: Singer 14T968DC

Marie367
Marie367  Friend of PR
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In reply to schmammy <<


Date: 4/21/14 7:31 PM

I don't know if this would help you or not but I often run into gaping at the armhole. I was making a princess seam bodice so I had to modify this to work with the seams but I thought it was useful. I am not familiar with this pattern so I don't know if it has a dart. Here is the fix I found: gaping

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