Member since 9/18/11
Date: 4/27/14 5:03 PM
So, I've just muslined up the Jalie 2794, including a FBA. I'm happy with the fit, and the muslin is good enough that I'll call it a wearable muslin (at least in the house!), but the elastic gathering portion is pretty terrible looking. The cheapo knit I used for the muslin has more vertical stretch than my fashion fabric, but it has got me kind of worried. On my first attempt, the fabric and elastic both just stretched to be the same length (i.e., not gathering created, because of the stretch). On attempt #2, I kind of scrunched the fabric up under the elastic (with the elastic unstretched), and while it sort of creates the right effect, it doesn't look great.
I thought I had read that someone created a casing for the elastic, but can't figure out where I read that, and can't quite figure out how it would work. (Does the casing get stitched on the whole length, with the elastic tacked to the ends?)
Thought on how best to accomplish this? I do plan to experiment some on some scraps of the fashion fabric, but it seems like I'm missing something obvious and easy.
Member since 2/8/09
Date: 4/28/14 8:30 AM
Hi LeanneK- I have that pattern but haven't sewn it up yet. Are you referring to the area in the front neckline?
Heres what I would do if you want a narrow casing in a knit.
Leave both ends of that center neckline unattached and unsewn. Turn the neckline under 3/4 inch. Use a 1/4 in fusible press strip stabilizer to keep it turned under. Now sew along the edge secured by the fused stabilizer- your stitches will be about 1/8 in from the edge.
Next mark- DON'T cut your elastic (1/4 inch wide). Hold your top up to yourself and find a neckline length that is flattering between the 2 sleeve sections. Use that length minus about 1 inch for your elastic.
Make the first mark on your elastic about 1-2 inches from the elastic cut end. Then mark the second using the first as a reference.
Now thread the UNCUT elastic through your casing. Pull it through to the mark. Stitch that end of the casing to secure the elastic.
Now scrunch your casing until you pull out enough elastic to find your second mark. Secure that end by sewing it closed.
Now CUT off both ends of elastic hanging out of the casing. Try it on and see if it looks better.
If you want a wider casing, double all my width measurements. If you want it narrower you can having and using 1/8 in wide elastic but that can get tricky.
If you don't want a casing then stitch each marked end of the elastic to each end of the neckline fabric. After that is done, turn the elastic down- just like a waistband, pin to secure and then zz stitch. When done, cut off the excess elastic on each end.
Having uncut elastic on each end gives you something to hold onto so you have control under the presser foot when starting and finishing.
-- Edited on 4/28/14 8:34 AM --
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