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Forum > Sergers, Coverstitch and Blindhemmers > Serging a knit that curls ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Serging a knit that curls
Shira Jacobson
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Shira Jacobson
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Date: 4/28/14 10:47 PM

Wanted to ask the hive mind: I'm trying to do a three-thread serged edge on a single layer of an ITY knit. The problem is that the edge gets "pulled in" within the looper threads, and ends up looking terrible. If I try the same stitch on a firmer/less curly fabric, the stitch looks fine. I've tried reducing the looper tensions, but to no avail. Any suggestions? My machine doesn't have differential feed, so I can't fiddle with that. I'm using a ballpoint needle (80/12). Let me know what you think!

the8dunlaps
the8dunlaps
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Date: 4/28/14 10:52 PM

Ive read the needle being to big on thin knits can do this and you may need a 75/11 or a 10?? I think I just read that recently....

the8dunlaps
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Date: 4/28/14 10:53 PM

it was sewing about .com...
Choose a needle appropriate for the fabric-usually a size 70/10 or 80/12-- the finer the fabric the smaller the needle. A needle that's too large will push the fabric down into the machine throatplate [QUOTE]

I would try a 70/10...
-- Edited on 4/28/14 10:54 PM --

simplystitches
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In reply to Shira Jacobson <<
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Date: 4/28/14 11:46 PM

Turn the setting on your knife to a lower number to make it narrower. It doesn't have anything to do with the tension settings usually. It just means that the knife is in a position (too wide) to allow too much fabric into the stitch and it has no choice but to curl under.

You didn't mention what brand the serger is but I've had three different brands and the fix has been the same for all of them.

Debbie

beauturbo
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Date: 4/28/14 11:58 PM

You might be able to stick a strip of clear wash a way stabilizer under it. Or if it really wants to roll so much anyways, maybe go with it, and make a rolled hem stitch there instead. Also maybe try a smaller sharper needle on a scrap, if it does not cause a hole, skipped stitches or any runs, maybe that would even go though it cleaner.

I don't think differential feed or not, would make much difference just since that stretches or condenses more in the other direction, but if it curls more the more it's stretched, maybe lessen up on your pressure foot pressure too. Out of all those things one might work. Also if you could just spray startch the edges of it, might do something good, but that might be kind of hard to do, with out the thin ity knit melting.

wendyrb
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In reply to Shira Jacobson <<
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Date: 4/29/14 0:02 AM

What are you doing with this edge after it's been finished with the 3-thread serged edge? If we know what the next step is and more about your project, more ideas might bubble up.

I often use the Emma Seabrooke stay tapes for knits to firm up just the edge, or a fold that needs some body. They are great products with many uses- not too stiff and leave a knit feeling like a knit.

I've read on PR that many folks stiffen the knit with starch so it is firmer to handle during construction. If your knit were less floppy maybe that would help it stand up to the serging process. Afterwards, of course you rinse so the fabric returns to it's normal hand.

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Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

diane s
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Date: 4/29/14 1:08 PM

If I have a curly knit, I skip the serger and use my sewing machine, smoothing out the curls as I sew.

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My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to diane s <<


Date: 4/29/14 2:15 PM

I would agree with this. I use lots of pins at the edge to keep the edges in place, something you can't do on a serger easily.
A think fusible strip at the edge would also help.

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Nancy K
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In reply to simplystitches <<


Date: 4/29/14 2:15 PM

Thanks for this tip.

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beauturbo
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Date: 4/29/14 2:49 PM

Leon Max, Maxstudio as a garment line and manufacturer, are kind of my long time "overlocker hero's" in how they overlock just almost all their thin ity kind of polyester or rayon very stretchy knits in all their ladies tops and dresses. And the ones I search out in the stores, and go copy stuff out of actually

I do wear those items, but I have also bought a few, a few times to even have them as kind of a "mini sewing lesson" just in front of me too.

Even they don't try to have a flat 3 thread overlock on a single layer of real thin knit like that most of the time, even though they have lots of single layer fabrics like that, finished off very nice with overlocking on the edge.

They instead, even have to, or I guess want to, as it works out much better to, and probably some very good reasons, stick an elastic cord over the single free edge and then more overlock over that instead. Or often times even roll hem over that elastic cord too. I have also seen them, overlock an edge (and yes it's probably curling at that point on that kind of fabric) but then they lay down the elastic cord over it, turn the fabric and zig zag over it, that gives a real nice stable edge to that kind of thing too.


-- Edited on 4/29/14 2:51 PM --

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