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Reshape Sleeve Cap
DOGLOVER389
DOGLOVER389
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Date: 6/20/14 9:58 PM

Hi All,

I have made several adjustments to the armscye. I had to raise it, make a narrow shoulder adjustment and a rounded shoulder/ back adjustment because of a spinal curve. I know I need to reshape the sleeve cap, but how does one do this?

I have measured the front and back of the sleeve cap from the notches to the seam, and the front and the back of the sleeve cap from the notches to the shoulder point. I have also made the same measurements on the front and back shirt pieces.

Should I shorten the distance from the shoulder point on the sleeve cap to the point that joins under the arm by the amount I raised the armscye?

If anyone can offer clear directions regarding reshaping the sleeve cap, it would be most appreciated.



Many thanx,


DogLover389

------
Cut my teeth on a Kenmore 117.58

http://pages.sewing-machine-manuals.com/173/PictPage/1922064294.html

Singer Merritt 9612

Quickie
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Quickie
NETHERLANDS
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Date: 6/21/14 3:30 AM

I find it hard to give a fair advise. When I change the armhole of a pattern then I decide quite soon that I draft a new sleeve for that. For me doable is it possible to find in your pattern a leve size that fits in the cicumference of your armhole ? You will most likely have to adjust the the width of the sleeve.
I think it is wies to muslin that sleeves

-- Edited on Today at 8:20 AM --

Catina
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In reply to DOGLOVER389 <<
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Date: 6/21/14 10:29 AM

As always, I love it when I get to see a picture of the work-in-progress to help me give the best advice possible. I have done custom fits for those who have the rounded shoulders and/or spinal curves. As you pointed out, this cause you to have to adjust the actual armhole... so I would first address how you adjusted that and if that was the best balance in the first place. Normally I would first fit the bodice mock-up without the sleeve sewn in. Looking from the side view you can quickly see where the shoulder seam wants to be, how much to reduce from the front a.h. and how much to add in compensation to the back a.h. From there it becomes a much easier guess on how much to "shift" or "rotate" the sleeve cap and underarm seams. From there I build a mock up of the sleeve, and do an easing stay stitch in the cap. I don't sew it in quite yet. Instead, I have the wearer put on the bodice and I slip the sleeve over her arm and dangle the sleeve to let it hang balanced, then pin-fit the cap in place (with the seam allowance tucked under). I mark where the intersecting shoulder seam and underarm seam wants to be on the sleeve and may have to again re-draft the sleeve based on that new information. THEN I go for it and sew a sleeve in and it's usually 95% right at that point. If it's not, then alcohol becomes involved!

The main point here is that before you go through all the work of making adjustments to your sleeve, double check your armhole. Photographing yourself in the bodice from the front, side and back will allow you to pause for a moment and study this. Sometimes real life goes too fast, looking in the mirror and trying to evaluate a fit. This is why I also enjoy looking at still pictures because I can really stop for a moment and digest what's going on and what the probable solution might be.

------
Your "Pattern Hack Fairy",
Catina Ferraine

www.PatternHackFairy.com


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In reply to Catina <<
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Date: 6/21/14 10:47 AM

You described how I go about this process very well. Sometimes a beverage of choice is the missing ingredient with these pesky sleeves. Great minds think alike! Key point- if the bodice, especially the armhole, has unresolved fit concerns, those will aggravate the sleeve. Studying photos is very revealing, so post one if you can.

------
Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

DOGLOVER389
DOGLOVER389
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Date: 6/22/14 11:39 PM

Hi All,

Thank you for your replies.

Back pain had me sidelined for the past two days.

Alcohol will definitely be needed for me to get brave enough to post photos.



DogLover389

------
Cut my teeth on a Kenmore 117.58

http://pages.sewing-machine-manuals.com/173/PictPage/1922064294.html

Singer Merritt 9612

DOGLOVER389
DOGLOVER389
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Date: 7/3/14 9:49 PM

Hi All,

I have been unsucessfully trying to take pictures of myself in the muslin. I don't have anyone to help with that task, so I have been trying to do the best I can.

In order to take photos, I have to raise one arm to hold the camera (I don't have a tripod which can accomdate teh small digital, only my film cameras), which skews the fit. If I try to raise my other arm to show the lower part of the armscye and side seam, well, the photos just look terrible.

Is there anything else I can do to determine how I should reshape the sleeve cap?

I know pictures would make it much easier for all of you to instruct me, but I don't know if I can make that happen.



Many thanx,


DogLover389

------
Cut my teeth on a Kenmore 117.58

http://pages.sewing-machine-manuals.com/173/PictPage/1922064294.html

Singer Merritt 9612

Catina
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In reply to DOGLOVER389 <<


Date: 7/3/14 10:24 PM

Do you have webcam? If so, I can webcam with you and capture some still shots of you in your muslin, OR, you can record yourself for a private youtube video and just share the video link with us once it is uploaded. :)

I get on Google+ hangouts often with people re: fit and sewing issues, and sometimes other's join in and we get a good group hangout going to hash it all out. Google+ is free, and you can get webcams for about $30 these days.

------
Your "Pattern Hack Fairy",
Catina Ferraine

www.PatternHackFairy.com


DOGLOVER389
DOGLOVER389
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Date: 7/4/14 0:04 AM

Hi Catina,

I don't have a webcam.

I hate being photographed, but I was trying so I could get the sleeve cap issue resovled.

I'll keep trying iwth teh camera.



Many thanx,


DogLover389

------
Cut my teeth on a Kenmore 117.58

http://pages.sewing-machine-manuals.com/173/PictPage/1922064294.html

Singer Merritt 9612

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In reply to DOGLOVER389 <<


Date: 7/4/14 9:01 AM

Have you seen Peggy Sagers videos? She does webcasts and they are archived on her site, Silhouette Patterns. She has one specifically addressing creating a sleeve cap to fit your armscye. Worth a look.

------
"framed" was taken
"I meant what I said, and I said what I meant." - Horton(Dr. Seuss)

PattyE
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In reply to DOGLOVER389 <<


Date: 7/4/14 9:44 AM

Your camera should have a timer which is easy to use, and you could set the camera on a tower of books. This might help you get a pic without having to hold the camera.

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Stash: 172.5 yds. @ 12.27.14

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