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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Converting Pencil Skirt Pattern from woven to stretch woven

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Converting Pencil Skirt Pattern from woven to stretch woven
pinkcatflower
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pinkcatflower
NEW ZEALAND
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Date: 6/23/14 3:32 AM

Hi,
Just wondering if one took a darted pencil skirt designed for wovens, and used a woven with a substantial amount of stretch, would that mess things up?
(I was given some fabric, it is a medium weight bengaline with stretch along with straight grain.)

I know some stretch-woven pencil skirts are designed for negative ease. But I don't really want negative ease, I don't like super-clingy skirts.
I'm wondering if it would look baggy if a stretch woven was used, or maybe have other problems...

Really I'm just trying to call on pre-existing knowledge to avoid any major surprises!

Thanks in advance :)

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I have a new blog: makingitwell.blogspot.com
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julie w
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julie w
Western Australia Australia
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Date: 6/23/14 7:08 AM

With stretch bengaline I would use minimum ease and use a smaller than usual size. To get an idea you could wrap the fabric around your hips and mark where comfortable, measure this amount then use the hip measurement on the pattern that corresponds.

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Julie, Perth, WA

Projects competed 2016 17
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helenkosings
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helenkosings  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/23/14 9:56 AM

You can also figure out the percentage of crosswise stretch your fabric has & then reduce the width of your pattern pieces by that same percentage.
Determining amount of stretch
-- Edited on Today at 9:58 AM --

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Quickie
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Quickie
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Date: 6/23/14 11:20 AM

I think that you can best leave 15% stretch in the pattern
Catina
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Catina  Friend of PR
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In reply to pinkcatflower

Date: 6/23/14 11:32 AM

Just to clarify, when you say the stretch is along the grain... do you mean that it is stretching up and down VERTICALLY if you were to cut the skirt "on grain"???

If so, you will want to consider cutting the skirt out on the CROSS GRAIN. If the ridges of your bengaline go from side to side (cross grain), the added interest is that your ridges would end up going vertically on your skirt, which in my opinion can be more flattering.

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Your "Pattern Hack Fairy",
Catina Ferraine

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pinkcatflower
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pinkcatflower
NEW ZEALAND
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Date: 6/23/14 10:19 PM

Yes, the stretch is vertical, parallel to the selvage. So I would cut the pieces on the cross grain so that the stretch runs from side to side on the garment.

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I have a new blog: makingitwell.blogspot.com
I'd love for you to visit :)

pinkcatflower
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pinkcatflower
NEW ZEALAND
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Posts: 195
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Date: 6/23/14 10:25 PM

Thanks for your advice guys! I think the first thing I will do is measure the amount of stretch it has and go from there...

------
I have a new blog: makingitwell.blogspot.com
I'd love for you to visit :)

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