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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Raglan Sleeve without shoulder seam

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Raglan Sleeve without shoulder seam
jsbach
jsbach
Member since 5/26/14
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Date: 6/26/14 9:12 AM

Hello everybody, I am recently working on a shirt with raglan sleeves. However I only know how to do the raglan sleeve with shoulder seam. But I would love to do the one without shoulder seams. So could anybody help?

petro
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petro
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Date: 6/26/14 9:47 AM

Are you drafting your own sleeve? Raglan sleeves without a shoulder seam usually have a wide dart from the neckline across the shoulder. If you put your shoulder seams together so that the shoulder point meets you will probably see how that works. I sometimes do a quick fabric economy alteration with raglans with a shoulder seam by simply putting the seams together and making a dart at the top instead.

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Elona
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Elona  Friend of PR
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In reply to jsbach <<


Date: 6/26/14 4:22 PM

Here are lots of illustrations of what petro suggests.

jsbach
jsbach
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Date: 6/27/14 10:03 AM

OhMaybe I should have asked "How to draft a raglan sleeve without shoulder dart". It should be clearer now.
I know how to draft the one with shoulder dart. But I don't know how to draft the one without shoulder dart like the sleeve of a sweater.
Thank you so much!

Catina
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Catina  Friend of PR
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In reply to jsbach <<


Date: 6/27/14 10:19 AM

I think one thing you need to ask yourself first is if you really *want* a non-shaped raglan sleeve for your shirt project.

A dartless raglan sleeve is usually very unfitted without shaping, more ideal for a roomy sports sweatshirt, probably in a knit or stretch fabric. The woven fabric versions of the dartless raglan have also usually been very oversized and more of an exaggerated "avant garde" look.

If I know more about the actual fabric and styling you are looking to design, I will be better able to advise with my take on the "pattern hack"

There is another thread here on Pattern Review that I found similar to yours that might have some additional info/insight for you Eliminating Dart in Raglan Sleeve for men's shirt

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Your "Pattern Hack Fairy",
Catina Ferraine

Blog: PatternHackFairy.com
Website: FashionHackPatterns.com


AllNewtoMe
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Date: 6/27/14 10:41 AM

They explain how to do this in Fit For Real People. Mark the stitching lines on the dart so that you can see where they meet. Draw a line horizontally through that point. Cut. Swing the pieces up so that the dart is removed. Fill the empty space with extra tissue. True up lines.

Your stitching line will now be longer and you will need to adjust your bodice edges to lengthen them.

The first three photos on this post illustrate the process:
http://mysewingspace-renee.blogspot.com/2009/07/new-look-6762-pink-raglan-sleeve-top.html

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