Hello everybody, I am recently working on a shirt with raglan sleeves. However I only know how to do the raglan sleeve with shoulder seam. But I would love to do the one without shoulder seams. So could anybody help?
France Member since 6/24/07 Posts: 2857 Skill: Advanced
1 member likes this.
Date: 6/26/14 9:47 AM
Are you drafting your own sleeve? Raglan sleeves without a shoulder seam usually have a wide dart from the neckline across the shoulder. If you put your shoulder seams together so that the shoulder point meets you will probably see how that works. I sometimes do a quick fabric economy alteration with raglans with a shoulder seam by simply putting the seams together and making a dart at the top instead.
OhMaybe I should have asked "How to draft a raglan sleeve without shoulder dart". It should be clearer now.
I know how to draft the one with shoulder dart. But I don't know how to draft the one without shoulder dart like the sleeve of a sweater.
Thank you so much!
I think one thing you need to ask yourself first is if you really *want* a non-shaped raglan sleeve for your shirt project.
A dartless raglan sleeve is usually very unfitted without shaping, more ideal for a roomy sports sweatshirt, probably in a knit or stretch fabric. The woven fabric versions of the dartless raglan have also usually been very oversized and more of an exaggerated "avant garde" look.
If I know more about the actual fabric and styling you are looking to design, I will be better able to advise with my take on the "pattern hack"
Virginia USA Member since 9/6/10 Posts: 650 Skill: Advanced Beginner
Date: 6/27/14 10:41 AM
They explain how to do this in Fit For Real People. Mark the stitching lines on the dart so that you can see where they meet. Draw a line horizontally through that point. Cut. Swing the pieces up so that the dart is removed. Fill the empty space with extra tissue. True up lines.
Your stitching line will now be longer and you will need to adjust your bodice edges to lengthen them.
The first three photos on this post illustrate the process:
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