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Forum > Beginner's Forum > Pattern recommendations for a first blazer/jacket tailoring project? ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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Pattern recommendations for a first blazer/jacket tailoring project?
I really want to sew a jacket, but find it terrifying to contemplate
ToileAndTrouble
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ToileAndTrouble  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/26/14 1:44 PM

I have quite a few jacket/blazer patterns because I really like to believe that I will make all of them someday. So, I keep buying them.* I currently own: M6172, Vogue 8893, Vogue 8804, Vogue 7975,
Simplicity 2341, and various jacket patterns that came in by BurdaStyle US Magazine. But, I really want to make my first blazer/jacket now. And these choices all look like they require more precision and ability than I have.

Are these patterns all too hard for my current skill level? My ability to physically sew things together is not great--stitches are not very even or straight. I don't really have a developed understanding of fabric (how it moves, cuts, drapes, eases, etc). My clothes only end up wearable because I love to puzzle out the pattern pieces, work out fit issues, and manipulate the flat patterns into good fit.

Is there an easy baby-step style or pattern out there to nudge me towards making jackets that doesn't require a tremendous amount of skill to sew and finish?

(*Note: I have a consistent problem with making aspirational purchases of patterns and fabric that are too difficult/nice for me now; planning to get good enough to cut and use them "soon.")

SouthernStitch
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Date: 6/26/14 4:08 PM

I think that the Vogue 7975 would be a good choice. It has princess seams for easier fitting, and you could choose the collar-less view.

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Bernina 780, and 530
Juki TL2010
Babylock Evolution
Singer 403a

When life gives you green velvet curtains, make a green velvet dress.

dmh1
dmh1  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/26/14 4:10 PM

What about taking an online class to help you? I know Craftsy has a couple on jacket-making.

------
Michelle

SM: Janome DC2013 & Singer Futura Quintet
Serger: Janome Magnolia 7034D
Coverstitch: Singer 14T968DC

solosmocker
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solosmocker
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In reply to ToileAndTrouble <<
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Date: 6/26/14 4:29 PM


What sort of things have you made so far? You may want to stay away from notched collars, pocket welts and bound buttonholes in the beginning. I can see a simple linen jacket, unlined with either mock flat felled seams or bound Hong Kong seams being quite nice and easy to accomplish. For now I would keep it as plain as possible and built your skills slowly with each new jacket. For that reason I would go with V8893. Claire Shaeffer's pattern instructions are very clear and will walk you through every detail. They are probably the best patterns directions on any Vogue pattern out there. Those neck bands are simply reverse facings, not hard to do. The pockets are classic patch pockets, also not hard to do and I am sure these are well explained based on my experience with her patterns. Personally I would do a Hong Kong finish on all vertical seams and the pattern may recommend that. They are not hard to do and add a really lovely touch to your finished jacket. They offer a fun spot to add a coordinating print or stripe to a solid jacket.

If you need any help with Hong Kong seams here's a tutorial:
Hong Kong seams

Make sure you use the fabrics recommended in the pattern otherwise you could have issues up the road.

Good luck! I would love to know what you decide but that would be my recommendation of this group.

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http://lasewist.blogspot.com/

PattiAnnJ
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Date: 6/26/14 4:38 PM

I did my first lined blazer many years ago and found if I worked in small increments of time, the project seemed easier to complete.

As long as you do not have to make any fitting adjustments, the project should be easy.

If you wish, you may want to do a bit of research by reading publications by Susan Betzina or Palmer and Pletsch.

Power Sewing



-- Edited on Today at 4:47 PM --

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"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

ToileAndTrouble
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In reply to solosmocker <<


Date: 6/26/14 5:51 PM

Thank you for that detailed explanation. I think that I will try this one first, because it is unlined, doesn't have welts and notched lapels, and seems to have thorough instructions. The "average" rating made it seem like it might be too difficult to me.

So far, I've made quite a few practical items of clothing: tailored sheath dresses, simple dress pants with front fly and pockets (no back welt pockets!), straight skirts for work, woven t-shirts and tanks, and knit dresses and tunics. None of them are fancy, detailed, or technically difficult (or even lined--lining fabric is still too slippery for me to control). I think that the most complex garment I've ever made is a button-down shirt. But, I do try to focus on good, clean, strong finishes and structure (interfacing, underlining, lace hems, french seams, flat felled seams, precise buttons, etc).

I would like to move beyond the simple separates now. And, I'm getting excited about the possibility of making suit jackets for work.

ToileAndTrouble
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ToileAndTrouble  Friend of PR
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In reply to PattiAnnJ <<


Date: 6/26/14 6:00 PM

Thank you for the book recommendation.

I do like sewing things up in bits and chunks. But sometimes that backfires... I have been working, incrementally, on a men's shirt for two years. That project got held up for a few months while I avoided putting the collar and stand together. Then, it took over a year to get brave enough to stitch the buttonholes. Now I'm fretting over a sleeve placket.

At the rate that I sew, I'll check in with a final project in a year or so!

DOGLOVER389
DOGLOVER389
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Date: 6/27/14 0:21 AM

Hi ToileandTrouble,

You can find a great tutorial for sleeve plackets here on Pam Erny's site. Her tutorial is easy to follow and she includes a lot of photos.

For making perfect collar points, again it is Pam Erny to the rescue. You can find that tutorial here.

Information regarding top stitching the collar stand can be found here. Scroll down about halfway to TRBittner's technique and then further down for Peter in NYC, from MalePatternBoldness.

Speaking of Peter from MalePatternBoldness, he does a shirt Sewalong, which you can find here. The sleeve placket method he uses is a little different from the one Pam Erny uses, but both give good results. Choose the method which seems easiest to use.

I know your shirt will look great.



DogLover389

------
Cut my teeth on a Kenmore 117.58

http://pages.sewing-machine-manuals.com/173/PictPage/1922064294.html

Singer Merritt 9612

westmoon
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Date: 6/27/14 8:34 AM

I made New Look 6911 as my very first blazer about a year ago. I would not say I much more than an advanced beginner now, and a year ago I had even less experience. I found making the jacket and fitting it remarkably easy despite my lack of experience.

Here is my review if you're interested. I made the jacket again (and fixed the armhole problem I had) later last year, but for various reasons haven't made another since. However, I definitely found the two I made were enormously confidence inspiring. I also really enjoyed making the insides of the unlined jacket look pretty using bias tape etc.

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http://sewingnovice.blogspot.co.uk/
One woman. One sewing machine. One giant stack of fabric. What could possibly go wrong?

lgrande
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Date: 6/27/14 9:08 AM

I'm not sure which one you said you were going to try first.
I absolutely L O V E that Vogue 8893
In fact, I think I'll try the pattern myself.

------
Linda

Bernina 830LE - Brother Dreamweaver VQ3000 - Bernina B530 - Janome 6600P - Pfaff 1209 - Babylock Evolution - Janome 644 - Babylock Sashiko2 - Babylock BLCS-2

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