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Help on a FBA on Vogue 8880
Cocoyorkie
Cocoyorkie  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Gauteng South Africa
Member since 12/3/09
Posts: 18
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Date: 6/28/14 5:37 AM

Hello Everyone,

I need some assistance pretty please.

I want to make Vogue 8880 but am wondering about an FBA and which size to cut - I purchased the pattern with sizes 14 - 22.

My high bust is 39", bust is 44", under bust 39". I wear a size 40 E cup sports bra (measured and fitted) as these are the only ones that are made of cotton that I can wear (severe allergy to man-made fibres). My waist is 37" and my hip is 49". there is only 4" from my under bust to my waist which I assume would make me incredibly short-waisted? I'm only 5' tall.

How would one do a FBA on this top. There is quite a bit of ease built into the pattern? Size 14 = 45" and size 16 = 47" are the finished bust size measurements printed on the pattern? With that kind of ease, do I really need to do an FBA?

Edited to correct high bust measurement.
-- Edited on Today at 4:08 AM --

------
1994 Elna 2006 - Nell
Janome 8077 - Gemma
1957 Singer 99K - Victoria
1935 Singer 28K Hand Crank - TC (Temperamental Charlotte)
1970's - Singer 15NL Hand Crank - Howard
1960's Bernina Favorit 740 - as yet unnamed
Pre-1930's Jones Family CS Hand Crank - Jane
1951 Singer 221K Featherweight - Betty

diane s
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diane s  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Oregon USA
Member since 8/24/02
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Date: 6/28/14 10:10 PM

If I was doing a fba in view a or b, I would make standard fba with a bust dart and rotate it into the front pleats. But if your high bust is only 29" a 14 or 16 pattern will probably be too big for you in the shoulders. My high bust is 32.5 and I start with a 10 or a 12 in a pinch to get a good shoulder fit.
-- Edited on Today at 11:18 PM --

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My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

BriarRose
BriarRose
Intermediate
USA
Member since 10/30/10
Posts: 1131
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Date: 6/28/14 11:38 PM

If you want to get that same loose, easy fit, then yes, you need the FBA. Sorry. I understand the temptation to use the ease in place of FBA but you'll end up with something that pulls sideways across the chest instead of softly draping. (Voice of experience speaking here. )

The shoulders are pretty relaxed already so to avoid looking like your shoulders start down around your elbows, you want to choose the size that fits your shoulders and expand the rest of the pattern as needed.

Yeah, it's kind of a pain to do adjustments but it's an even bigger pain to try and fudge them and end up with something unwearable. (More VOE.)

------
I've quit fighting my inner demons. We're on the same side now.

It's just fabric; we can out-think it.

Cocoyorkie
Cocoyorkie  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Gauteng South Africa
Member since 12/3/09
Posts: 18
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Date: 6/29/14 4:07 AM

Hi Diane S and BriarRose,

Thank you so much for your assistance.

I admit to making a typo. My high bust is 39" and not 29" as previously stated. I know I am a size 14 in the shoulders.

The lower part I have cut the maximum size of 22 as my hips are so much larger than the rest of me. I will probably have to add a little to the bottom part as well but first I need to get the bust area sorted.

This will be the first time I'm attempting a FBA myself.

------
1994 Elna 2006 - Nell
Janome 8077 - Gemma
1957 Singer 99K - Victoria
1935 Singer 28K Hand Crank - TC (Temperamental Charlotte)
1970's - Singer 15NL Hand Crank - Howard
1960's Bernina Favorit 740 - as yet unnamed
Pre-1930's Jones Family CS Hand Crank - Jane
1951 Singer 221K Featherweight - Betty

Debbie Cook
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Debbie Cook
USA
Member since 4/11/02
Posts: 9748
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In reply to Cocoyorkie <<


Date: 6/29/14 9:49 AM

Quote:
This will be the first time I'm attempting a FBA myself.


Then you might want to trace your pattern.

You could also just add the side bust dart and leave it.

This will be a trickier pattern for a first FBA because of the cut-on sleeves (if I remember the pattern correctly) ... do you have a reference for that?

------
--
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com

Loopygolfer
Loopygolfer
Advanced
Member since 5/26/11
Posts: 2
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In reply to Cocoyorkie <<


Date: 7/10/14 7:54 AM

You could try either a bust dart as suggested (although might be awkward with the cut-on sleeve), or you could try a FBA for a garment without darts - there's a good tutorial on Threads magazine site. Threads Magazine

This method essentially ads a bit of width at the bust area, plus a bit of length in the front to ensure your blouse doesn't ride up at the front. But if you're putting an elastic in at the waist (I think it's seamed too), then the extra length will be at the waist seam (it will make sense when you view the video).

Because of the sleeve and shape of the blouse, I might be inclined to try the blouse out of a cheap fabric with about the same weight as your good fabric, just to make sure.

Good luck! FBA makes a lot of difference and it's great to feel good about the fit of your garments!

Melanie
http://madforsewingandfashion.com

Cocoyorkie
Cocoyorkie  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Gauteng South Africa
Member since 12/3/09
Posts: 18
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Date: 7/11/14 7:28 PM

Thank you Debbie.

Loopygolfer, unfortunately I cannot view the video on Threads site. I'm not sure why unless one needs to be a member.

I want to try and do this in a knit but I've never worked with a knit fabric before.....With my allergies, I have to use natural fabrics, eg cotton, linen, etc.....if using a blend, the natural fibre content cannot be less than 70% otherwise I re-act with severe eczema that is very painful and unsightly. So I've bought a cotton jersey knit with the cotton content of 75% and the balance is the blend to make the stretchiness of the knit.

I've always shied away from knits since majority of the time, here in South Africa, I find that the man-made fibre is a higher content than a natural fibre.....buying fabric is literally a pain in the neck for me.

------
1994 Elna 2006 - Nell
Janome 8077 - Gemma
1957 Singer 99K - Victoria
1935 Singer 28K Hand Crank - TC (Temperamental Charlotte)
1970's - Singer 15NL Hand Crank - Howard
1960's Bernina Favorit 740 - as yet unnamed
Pre-1930's Jones Family CS Hand Crank - Jane
1951 Singer 221K Featherweight - Betty

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