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Closely fitted muslin . . .
should I widen back a tad to accommodate bulk of zipper?
Mole Princess
Mole Princess
Member since 4/17/12
Posts: 653
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 7/10/14 7:57 AM

Hello all,

I've muslined a dress for a friend and we are very satisfied with the fit. I don't have a zipper in the muslin--I've pinned the back closed.

The back fits closely but comfortably, yet with not a lot of room to spare.

I'll be making the dress in rayon challis and have heard that rayon can be fragile at the seams. Plus, I'll be adding the bulk of the zipper (an invisible zipper, so it's not TOO bulky).

I'm thinking I should widen the back at the center just a tad to allow for the zipper bulk and to maybe relieve some strain on the back armhole seams. (I read something scary about rayon sometimes pulling out at seams!)

But how big a "tad" should I go for? I was thinking of something like 3/16" to 3/8" total addition to the back (split between the back halves). 1/4" would of course be convenient :-)

Also--and maybe I'll post this in tips and techniques too, as a question, if one should--I am wondering if there is any special technique I can apply to the sleeve seams, beyond just stitching and then edge-finishing, to keep awful things from happening when she puts an arm way forward. I really was a bit spooked by the idea that rayon could pull out. Should I just use an extra short stitch when sewing? (I usually don't do that lest I need to unpick.) Two rows of stitching a micron apart? I read something about reinforcing the seam with some kind of tape but didn't understand what that would do.

Thanks, all!

Edited to add P.S.: The pattern has set-in sleeves with a well-fitted, close armhole. So I don't want to overwiden the back and put the sleeve position out of whack, as it's good now on her shoulder and arm.
-- Edited on Today at 7:58 AM --
Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
New South Wales Australia
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Date: 7/10/14 7:13 PM

I think if the bodice is so tight the bulk of the zip will make it unbearable, then there is definitely not enough ease. Technical ease at the bust should be about 2 cm - just to let you breather and function normally. The zip will take a fraction of it, so it shouldn't make any difference.
If the fabric tends to pul at the seams, ease is crucial, and possibly some thin interfacing at the sams to keep the threads together. Ideally the garment should be lined or underlined, this way you won't need to interface the seams.

------
Custom clothier and pattern designer. www.iconicpatterns.com

SewABQ
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SewABQ
Member since 7/27/14
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Date: 8/1/14 1:32 PM

Can she sit comfortably?
It does sound by your description, to be tight.
Sue
Catina
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Catina  Friend of PR
Utah USA
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Date: 8/1/14 2:48 PM

In addition to the great advice from Lena Merrin, I love the idea of a lining, but making it a wee bit tighter than the outer rayon layer so there is no strain on it.

I am normally not a fan of using fusing (glue).... but gosh I sure have seen it make an incredibly impressive assist to the seams in rayon not shredding all to....

I've sewn some woven rayon garments, (unlined, no fusing in the seams) and I can swear it was a loose fit and the darn seams still pulled apart- even with topstitching! ahhhhhh!!!!

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Your "Pattern Hack Fairy",
Catina Ferraine

Blog: PatternHackFairy.com
Site: FashionForwardDevelopment.com



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