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Forum > Beginner's Forum > Sewing piping round collars ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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Sewing piping round collars
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LDT2011
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LDT2011
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Date: 7/14/14 6:30 AM

Ok so I've been having a nightmare trying to pipe a notched collar on a jacket…how do you get it to go round a curve/point? I've tried clipping it but it still won't sit flush even with handbasting before sewing on machine.

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'The purpose of most fashion is to be ostentatiously non-functional.'

skae
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In reply to LDT2011 <<
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Date: 7/14/14 8:42 AM

Maybe you could round the corner a bit .
Instead of that sharp point and trying to
Crease a fold just round it a bit.
That could help

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Ecclesiastes 11:7,8 Nothing on earth is more beautiful than the morning sun. Even if you live to a ripe old age, you should try to enjoy each day, because darkness will come and will last a long time. (CEV)

MartiP
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Date: 7/14/14 10:15 AM

Also don't stretch the piping at the corner. If anything try to ease a little extra in.
See if stopping at the corner, lifting the presser foot, turning the corner halfway, then take one stitch across, turn the rest of the way and continue stitching, helps.
I have never done this on a lapel, but that is the way we did it to get a squared corner when sewing a cushion.

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MartiP

Ruckertt's Law; There is nothing so small that it can't be blown out of proportion.

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CraftAddict
CraftAddict
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Date: 7/14/14 11:12 AM

I want to say Nancy Zieman had a segment on sewing piping but I can't seem to find it on her website. I'm pretty sure the application involved clipping the bias tape at an angle at the corner.

diane s
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diane s  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/14/14 12:26 PM

Similar to what Marti said, t helps to push more piping in the corner. As you get near the corner, push more piping in , so there's a little more piping in the seam, not 1 to 1. I do that with pillows and I get really nice corners.

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My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

MartiP
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In reply to diane s <<
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Date: 7/14/14 12:47 PM

Exactly. And with larger welt you almost have to put a tuck in it.
Bias piping has an advantage of more "give" going around curves, but with that comes the danger of stretching it around corners.

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MartiP

Ruckertt's Law; There is nothing so small that it can't be blown out of proportion.

Bernina 1230 Bernette 007D
Brother CS6000i Brother 2340 CV
New Home L372
Singer 221K (off white)
U.S Blindstitch, Model SL 718/2D
Simplicity SE2
Brother 700II

beauturbo
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In reply to LDT2011 <<


Date: 7/14/14 1:30 PM

Do you know you actually have to steam the ease and curve into the bias piping it, with a steam iron, before even hand basting it down? And you do need to push a little extra piping length into outwards curves. So, even at the ironing board, before hand basting, it should be steamed and molded into the curved shapes first.

beauturbo
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In reply to beauturbo <<


Date: 7/14/14 1:34 PM

Of course, if your piping is of made of something that will not be effected or will melt with steam and heat, like nylon or fake leather, then I think you are down to all pre-shapping with just using your your own fingers to do that instead. But if it's any fabric that responds to heat and steam, try that first.

solosmocker
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Date: 7/14/14 9:16 PM

You literally want to pinch in a bit extra to go around the corner with piping. You have to sqush it in as when you turn the garment right side out and push out the piping it will need more space to round that corner and that pinch you forced in will give it that. Make some samples first to test this out.

Grade your seam and clip your piping and seams. You want to notch them with Vs so that when you turn the garment the cut out spaces meet instead of overlapping which they would do if just clipped. If they are just clipped it will make things lumpy and not looking so good.

As others have mentioned it does really help to pre shape your piping, which should be made on the bias, with steam. Make a template out of cardboard and steam iron the piping into the shape you will need before pinning it to the garment. Let it cool and dry completely before moving it and pinning.
-- Edited on Today at 9:17 PM --

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cocosloft
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Date: 7/15/14 4:21 AM

Piping and bias binding can be finicky on curves and points! Pre-shaping with your fingers and a steam iron is definitely the way to go. Will get easier with practice, and the tips above are great...

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Coco

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