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Sewing Jumbo Cord
Question about the need for a specific foot for sewing cord in general
Stuggy
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Stuggy
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Ireland
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Date: 7/19/14 2:46 PM

I'm just wondering about sewing jumbo cord since reading a bit in an Amazon 'look inside' of Sandra Betzina's book on fabric. What I saw there suggested using a walking foot.
I'm just wondering how necessary one would be to get a decent job done.
Anybody have much experience?

I just have some I bought for making trousers and a jacket some months back.
I haven't sewn with the material before.
I could see why the foot would be useful since the ridges that make it cord mean that the texture isn't flat so subsequently layers might move independently.
Also, only having been able to read on the Amazon site stops me from knowing the book well. I have been wondering if I should buy it or Clare Shaeffer's book on fabric but that's another issue.

beauturbo
beauturbo
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In reply to Stuggy <<


Date: 7/19/14 5:29 PM

I'm guessing the word "cord" is kind of the european one for fuzzy, plush cotton corduroy fabric. I don't think you really need a built in pull down walking foot or any at least $25 bolt on generic one to sew with it at all. If I had not a machine that worked, I would just put that $25 into any machine that worked at all first really.

It's not particular stretchy fabric at all, and I think everyone has been sewing on it for centuries with all sorts of sewing machines with just no pull down walking feet or bolt on extra walking feet at all, just fine probably.

Even though it does not stretch much though, it is kind of looser weave sometimes than some very tight plain weave woven cotton, just because of the fuzzies and the nap, and if two pieces on top of each other and sewing a long distance and not pinned together very good every few inches it might try to creep on you a bit. Then if you really had a very expensive Pfaff machine with built in walking foot (which I think all of those cost new no matter what decade at least probably $600 most times) or want to pay at least a whole $25 for a generic bolt on walking foot for something, then no reason not to try to use it there to see if you liked it or not.

Bolt on walking feet are pretty big and bulky though, and kind of obstruct your vision in use sometimes, do make it harder to drop the needle down and even pivot like that, and even can't get into small tight areas and also just sort of prevent you from even using your hands to control some fabric also. So, I think everyone has been sewing pants and dresses and all sorts of stuff out of corduroy without either of those things too, and for just many decades and they just knew how to hold and manipulate and pin fabric also.

I think $25 or more, for a bolt on walking foot someplace might be 1/2 or 1/4 the price of a really nice and old and used more classic Singer 15, 201, 401, Necchi BU Nova, or nice old Kenmore or what ever sewing machine though too,(if maybe you need one of those) and people have even been sewing on corduroy, on those for decades with no walking foot of any kind.

I do have some Paff machines with a bulit in walking foot, and some without, (I like all of them no matter) and lots of other machines with no walking foot at all that I would never want to bolt one there, and can just sew something corduroy with no walking foot fine, on any of them actually, and if I was making lots of long curtains out of it, and did not want to have to pin much, then maybe I would want to use one, as then I would need a whole lot less pins.

But, even with a Pfaff, whose almost whole advertising policy rides on having that built in walking foot, if I still don't handle and pin a long length of corduroy enough with enough pins, it still will try to creep on me a little bit, on occasion , even with that.

So, just in case anyone tells you the answer to that problem is only to buy a over $600 Pfaff, I don't think that will really solve it either. More pins might though.
-- Edited on Today at 5:41 PM --

dmh1
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dmh1
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Date: 7/19/14 5:49 PM

Pin, pin, pin! Or even baste if you're still having issues after pinning well. When I'm sewing corduroy I use a lot of pins and haven't had any issues with it shifting. I made a jacket a couple of weeks ago out of a really large wale corduroy (compared to the pinwale corduroy) and even with all the princess seams and the yoke, I didn't have any issues because I pinned everything really well before sewing. I use a Janome DC2013 and didn't bother with the walking foot at all. I rarely use my walking foot, to be honest, because I pin everything before I start sewing and haven't had any issues, even with knits.

------
Michelle

SM: Janome DC2013 & Singer Futura Quintet
Serger: Janome Magnolia 7034D
Coverstitch: Singer 14T968DC

Stuggy
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Stuggy
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Date: 7/19/14 7:13 PM

Thanks, just got this stuff and I wanted to make sure I had the right equipment to use it right.
Partially wondered how that Sandra Betzina recommended foot thing worked, if it was an ideal or if it was this is what you do actually need.
May be a while before I get to that cord which I think is 8 wale. Had mean to get jeans and jacket done by now but still being hampered by speed I'm working at. Currently working on a jacket that I thought I'd have finished last week but is still at least a day away from completion. Have at least practised seam finishes on it though not 100% sure I've got them right.
Another foot I was thinking about, the flat fell one which David Page Coffin recommends in his book on shirts. Is it worth it? JUst that taht is the finish I tried to accomplish on this and wonder if it would be made more easy by using the foot. Which would mean getting another foot again.
But did think those 2 would be useful to have.

beauturbo
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In reply to Stuggy <<


Date: 7/19/14 8:04 PM

I think both Clare Shaeffer and Sandra Betzina have some good books. I do have Clare Shaeffer's one on fabric if it's that really huge big thick one and Blue cover and paperback. I bought mine used at the thrift store as just saw it there, one day, but I do think that's worth sinking some money into. For me, I am more likely to just spend on more knowledge/reference kind of things, if I think I will use them a lot, and then more extra gadgets and stuff later. But I have bought lots of both.

Tarrbaby
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Date: 7/20/14 8:05 AM

Don't forget borrowing from the library first would let you know if the books are worth purchasing.

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Dawn T.

Melcalifornia
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Date: 7/20/14 9:53 AM

I found this tutorial which shows how to do the flat reeled without a flat fell foot, and a link to the tutorial using the flat fell foot. I've never actually sewn one, but it looks as though the foot would really help get the stitch line along the edge of that seam - and in a shirt that stitching will be pretty noticible (to you at least!). It's nice to see her techniques using the two different feet though.

I've had pretty good luck with some of the $2-3 Ebay generic feet personally. I'd purchased a few thinking that I Just wanted to try the foot out, and if it were useful, I will eventually spend more $ for a higher quality one....but I've been happy with the cheap feet for certain tasks so haven't had to upgrade yet.

http://www.coletterie.com/tutorials-tips-tricks/standard-flat-felled-seam

dmh1
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dmh1
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In reply to Stuggy <<


Date: 7/20/14 12:43 PM

Quote: Stuggy
Another foot I was thinking about, the flat fell one which David Page Coffin recommends in his book on shirts. Is it worth it? JUst that taht is the finish I tried to accomplish on this and wonder if it would be made more easy by using the foot. Which would mean getting another foot again.

But did think those 2 would be useful to have.


I have a flat felled foot, but I've actually done all of mine without it. I do like that Colette tutorial previously mentioned and it really is pretty straightforward. Good luck!

------
Michelle

SM: Janome DC2013 & Singer Futura Quintet
Serger: Janome Magnolia 7034D
Coverstitch: Singer 14T968DC

Stuggy
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Stuggy
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Ireland
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Posts: 58
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In reply to Tarrbaby <<


Date: 7/20/14 4:45 PM

Quote:
Don't forget borrowing from the library first would let you know if the books are worth purchasing.


unfortunately I don't think any book like that is in the local library and I don't think they're buying any new stuff. Will see if i can get it from somewhere else in the system.
Renata
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Renata  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/20/14 9:56 PM

Corduroy is my second favourite fabric, after linen, and I have never found any problem with shifting during sewing, be it fine or heavy wale cord. You might want to consider overlocking all the seams, even if lining garment, because it does shed a lot, as you will find out when cutting. Also don't forget to cut the fabric with the pile going one way. For a richer looking garment have the pile going upwards.

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