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Forum > Beginner's Forum > Layout and Grain Confusion ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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Layout and Grain Confusion
Please help me figure out what I'm doing wrong.
Ubik
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Date: 7/21/14 7:23 PM

I'm attempting KS 3036, View D. It's a bias cut top with a center seam on the front and back pieces:


On the pattern pieces, View D's grain appears to be the "bias" or crosswise grain of the other views. At least, it would be that if it were woven. It's my understanding that most people don't like to say that knits have a grain, but I'm not sure about that.
Anyway, here's a pic of the layout:


Here is a pic of the pattern pieces laid out on the fabric according to the included layout, and the red measuring tape is following the grain directions of both pieces, View D. I did that because I'm not great at taking clear pics and I found it hard to get one where you could see the whole layout and read the print along the grain lines. I hope it's not too confusing and I can take more pics if needed.


My question/point of confusion:
If I follow the layout, then the grain lines seem to follow a "lengthwise" grain for the front and a "crosswise" grain for the back. They're oppositional to each other. Shouldn't they be pointing the same way? If I cut it out as it is currently laid out, will this matter?
Thank you for reading this. I know I'm doing something wrong, I just can't figure out what. And I felt like I should make some effort at trying to fix this before emailing Kwik Sew. Besides, it took me two days just to figure out how to say this to you guys. I at least need some help in figuring out a more concise way to state my problem.

In case the above links don't work, here's the photobucket album for this post as I don't have a preview button for some reason:
Photobucket KS3036 album


-- Edited on Today at 7:31 PM --

sew2006
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Date: 7/21/14 7:55 PM

The pattern is for 1 Front and 1 back and you are cutting 2 of each. When you fold the fabric on 1 side you will cut 2 front pieces and 2 back pieces. The diagonal line (bias) line will be a set distance from the fold, the centre front will be on bias--when cutting strippes this will create the shevron look on the front. If not sure about a bias and stripe take a piece of paper, draw lines across and fold as per pattern instruction. Make a cope of the miniature pattern pieces and cut them out from the paper. We did this in school with 1/4" scale patterns. It really helps show how the strippes get changed on a diagonal. Hope this helps.

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RMJ
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Date: 7/21/14 8:02 PM

I understand your confusion. Is your fabric striped? If yes, I think their layout will make it so that the chevron is pointing different directions on the front vs back!

Catina
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In reply to Ubik <<
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Date: 7/21/14 8:41 PM

Let's first decide what direction you would like your chevron to be.

Do you like upward or downward?
Also, Let me know how wide your fabric is (cutable width)

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Ubik
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In reply to Catina <<


Date: 7/21/14 10:27 PM

Thanks so much!
I want whatever would be the most slimming, which I think would be with stripes pointing down.
The fabric is 60" and I have two yards of it. I hope to get two tees out of it; one muslin and one wearable muslin. But I'm okay if this is all just a learning experience since I got it on sale.
It's hard to tell from the pictures, but the fabric is behind the pieces and I *think* it shows that the front pieces would be pointing down but the back would be pointing up. Maybe that wouldn't look weird, but don't I want front and back to match?

Ubik
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In reply to sew2006 <<


Date: 7/21/14 10:29 PM

Thanks for this! I love the idea of a mini pattern! I'm going to do that tonight.

Ubik
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In reply to RMJ <<
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Date: 7/21/14 10:34 PM

"I understand your confusion. Is your fabric striped? If yes, I think their layout will make it so that the chevron is pointing different directions on the front vs back!"

This is reassuring, because I was thinking this too but then was too scared to either just cut out the pieces like this or lay them underneath one another so the grain would be the same for both. I've had it laid out on the table for three days, just staring and thinking and then walking away.

Marie367
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In reply to Ubik <<


Date: 7/21/14 11:07 PM

Cut each piece individually-you will have a better chance of getting them cut right. Knit does have a "grain"- at least you can follow the ribbing down a length of fabric. Lynn Rowe talked about how to do that on the sewing with knit thread which I think is under the Beginner's Thread.
To find a diagonal think about taking a square and folding one corner down to meet the opposite corner-you end up with a triangle-that is the diagonal I think you want for this. I am geometrically challenged so this would be hard for me too.
I really liked Catina's idea-I would not have thought about which way to put the stripes and slimming is always a good thing.

Catina
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Date: 7/21/14 11:53 PM

Great... lets do srtpes pointing down then! I will do a layout for you and show you a trick for getting your stripes to chevron easily. Yes... the front and back we will chevron the same directon. Im not at my computer right now but will get you the graphics as soon as I am. Since you like stripes you should also do the maxi with the godets from another thread topic running hot!

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Catina Ferraine

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KiwiWendy
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Date: 7/22/14 0:11 AM

My thinking isn't which direction is slimming, but the chevrons make an arrow. I'd rather it point towards my face ie upwards because I'm short. also pointing down points towards, well, *cough* other areas of the body.

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