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Question on Bodice Sloper a professional is making for me
Concerns sleeve cap
kajero
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kajero  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
Minnesota USA
Member since 9/8/12
Posts: 755
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Date: 7/21/14 7:27 PM

I have the bodice pattern ready to sew for my second fitting. (Ugh, 12 darts! six on the front piece, two on each of the back pieces (4 total), and one on each sleeve. However, I really don't like the height of the sleeve cap. It seems really, really, high. I am going to complete the bodice and go to her house but wonder . . .

Do Bodice Slopers have a high sleeve cap?

Should I ask her to change it?

What do I say in the way of explanation?

Thanks.

Kathy

------
Kathy

My Personal Blog: kathysthreads.wordpress.com
My sewing dream: Make a really great fitting pair of pants!

Catina
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Catina  Friend of PR
Expert/Couture
Utah USA
Member since 10/6/11
Posts: 844
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In reply to kajero <<


Date: 7/21/14 8:11 PM

.... was the sleeve cap that same height on the previous iterations, or is it now higher for some reason?

Generally for a tailored/close fit, you would have the sleeve cap height be about the same as your armhole depth. Also, the more narrow your shoulder to shoulder seam would be... the higher of a sleeve cap you need to wrap around the ball of your arm.

I have a set of blocks for fitted/tailored garments... and then a variety of other blocks at different fit levels and shapes.

You will be able to make just about anything from your fitted blocks though.

------
Your "Pattern Hack Fairy",
Catina Ferraine

www.PatternHackFairy.com


kajero
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kajero  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
Minnesota USA
Member since 9/8/12
Posts: 755
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In reply to Catina <<


Date: 7/21/14 9:09 PM

I have narrow shoulders.
The sleeve cap height is the same as on the first muslin.

Thanks for your help.

Louise is going to show me how to use the bodice sloper on my patterns so maybe that problem will be covered.

Thanks again1

------
Kathy

My Personal Blog: kathysthreads.wordpress.com
My sewing dream: Make a really great fitting pair of pants!

Doris W. in TN
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Doris W. in TN  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Member since 2/9/04
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In reply to kajero <<


Date: 7/21/14 9:27 PM

All those darts on the front seem like a lot, too me, unless you're built like Dolly Parton. My Kenneth King moulage, which fits me like a second skin, has four darts total in front --- one side seam bust on each side and one vertical dart on each side.

If your sloped is fitted snugly, like a second skin, the sleeve cap will be high. It's the nature of "very fitted" garments. As ease is added, the sleeve cap is lowered.

------
iPad's auto-correct is my enema.

Mel.J
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Mel.J
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Victoria Australia
Member since 7/30/02
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Date: 7/21/14 10:53 PM

I'd make it and see what you think about range of movement, comfort etc. before approaching her with it. And I'd have the discussion from that point of view - e.g 'I can't move my arms forward, can we do something about that' or 'I feel like the's too much fabric here, it bunches up when I raise my arm'. Although you may not have any issues once it's made.

In the meantime, you might find this article interesting - From Kathleen Fasanella.
-- Edited on Today at 11:01 PM --

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Mel (Melbourne, Australia)

kajero
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kajero  Friend of PR
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Minnesota USA
Member since 9/8/12
Posts: 755
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In reply to Doris W. in TN <<


Date: 7/22/14 0:17 AM

The other two darts are in the shoulder on the front and back. I am really pear shaped, have narrow shoulders, long waisted, and small busted compared to my chest width. I think think this why there are so many darts there.

And yeah, the bodice is skin tight. Ugh!


-- Edited on Today at 0:22 AM --

------
Kathy

My Personal Blog: kathysthreads.wordpress.com
My sewing dream: Make a really great fitting pair of pants!

tailored
tailored
Expert/Couture
Member since 3/28/09
Posts: 124
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In reply to kajero <<


Date: 7/22/14 8:33 AM

The closer the fit is to the body the more shaping is required.
I agree with the other posters, go with what she has done with you, don't second guess, ask questions later.

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http://atailormadeit.blogspot.ca/

Doris W. in TN
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Doris W. in TN  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/23/14 4:39 AM

The less fitted the garment, the lower the sleeve cap. Men's dress shirts is a good example.

You really won't use the bodice sloper for adjusting sleeve patterns when you sew, beyond length, elbow location, and bicep circumference. The shape of the cap will help, if you stand more erect or are round- shouldered, but the height won't make a lot of difference.

I only have a sleeveless moulage sloper. It is useful for guiding me in lengthening the upper back and armscye.. From there, I adjust a pattern sleeve cap accordingly.

------
iPad's auto-correct is my enema.

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