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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Converting a shoulder princess seam to an armscye one

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Converting a shoulder princess seam to an armscye one
Yobtaf
Yobtaf
Member since 2/16/14
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Date: 7/23/14 10:04 AM

I have been planning on making this coat: Burda 12/2012 #104

However, I kind of want to try it with an armscye princess seam instead of the shoulder one. I was wondering how I should go about converting the princess seam. What things do I need to consider. Do I need to know where the bust point is? (it isn't indicated on pattern, neither are there many notches) Or can I just slash and pivot it about any point? Should I alter the princess seam of the original or shortened version?

I have made a muslin of the original pattern (made it petite) and it fits quite well, would changing the princess seam make the fitting go off?

Thanks
Catina
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In reply to Yobtaf

Date: 7/23/14 10:16 AM

If you can snap a photo of the front and side front pieces of the pattern, I can illustrate it for you.

It will not be difficult since you are not adding or subtracting to the fit- you are just moving the seam line.

With it being a coat, the armscye princess shape is usually longer and more gradual than with say, a fitted dress. I find it interesting that they did the shoulder princess in the front, but the armscye fit line in the back.



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Your "Pattern Hack Fairy",
Catina Ferraine

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Yobtaf
Yobtaf
Member since 2/16/14
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In reply to Catina

Date: 7/23/14 10:49 AM

Thanks for answering!

Here are some images:

Photo of the altered pattern pieces (sorry for the bad quality)

Original pieces
Catina
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Date: 7/23/14 11:14 AM

When you align the front seam at the shoulder and pivot it down, you will find the natural apex point where it starts to break away.

Next you draw in a smooth curve. You might even go a little higher than what I did for a more gradual transition.

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Your "Pattern Hack Fairy",
Catina Ferraine

Blog: PatternHackFairy.com
Site: FashionHackPatterns.com



grey ann
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grey ann  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/24/14 9:40 PM

Just curious, but why do you want to change the seam? This is a military princess seam which seems to fit the style of the coat very well. One reason for an armscye princess is on a sleeveless garment, to prevent that pucker or gap that often forms.
Yobtaf
Yobtaf
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Date: 7/25/14 2:50 AM

Thank you!

@grey ann I didnt really like the way the front was different from the back and I also have a small upper body and felt that maybe an armhole princess seam would balance the shape out better...
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