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Bat wings
JTink
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JTink
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Date: 7/24/14 11:00 AM

This is my day for questions I recently made a muslin of Simplicity 1316. It has "cut on" sleeves. I've always had an issue with this type of sleeve, the arm holes are too low. In other words, if I stand with my arms straight out at my side the curve/arch of the under arm sleeve/side seam is really low. When I do raise my arms(and it doesn't have to be a lot) the entire blouse raises way up. It's all very uncomfortable and unattractive. How do you adjust something like this? How do you raise an armhole, when there is no armhole?

Mufffet
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Mufffet  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/24/14 11:06 AM

I would just lengthen the side seam up past the place the pattern has the sleeve come off. Do a cut on that muslin and see if you can't just cut it higher in the armhole area...I just made a top sort of like that and boy - I learned I am going to cut the armhole area higher, shorten the sleeve etc....because unless you are that 5'8" person they make those patterns for that armhole is so low that it's on your waist! :)

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simplystitches
simplystitches
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Date: 7/24/14 11:41 AM

Yes, those are notoriously low!

I agree with Muffet in raising it up under the arm. You can also make a slight change to the shoulder seam and that will narrow the sleeve some so that you can't see through the sleeve and get a peek at your bra. That has the same effect as raising the underarm since it pulls the sleeve upward.

Just make sure you don't raise it too much. In a woven that type of sleeve can be a bugger to get off if you make it too snug. Ask me how I know!

Debbie

Catina
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Date: 7/24/14 12:03 PM

I have a few things that come to mind.

[ ] Slash a line from the armpit to the shoulder point, then pivot open about an inch. This will give you more range of motion, but you may or may not like that the sleeve is more "tee shirt" shaped and doesn't contour around the ball of your arm like it did before.

[ ] Insert a diamond shaped gusset in the armpit area. It will actually "raise" the armpit and give you more range of motion without changing the current shape/contour of the sleeve.

[ ] If you have extra room in the bust area, then perhaps move the armhole curve inward an inch so it sits closer to your body. A more narrow chest width may give you more range of motion.

[ ] Without seeing the pattern and how low that armhole really drops, I hesitate to advise raising the armhole upwards. It may actually work and solve the problem, but it could also create whisker creases.

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Your "Pattern Hack Fairy",
Catina Ferraine

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JTink
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JTink
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Date: 7/24/14 1:28 PM

Thank you all for the suggestions. This pattern came with Cup size pieces but I still had to do an FBA. I might try continuing up with that side seam.

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