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Thread bunching, could it be a timing problem?
Thread bunching, timing,
Stuggy
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Stuggy
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Ireland
Member since 3/5/14
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Date: 7/26/14 10:47 AM

I was sewing last night on my Lervia kh4000 which i was given a couple of weeks back. I was trying to sew a zig zag edge around the back part of a pocket bag when something went clang. after that the thread started bunching under the fabric.
I pretty much immediately changed the needle but testing on an offcut of the material didn't change anything.

I've tried cleaning out the bobbin casing but can't get one screw out of the needleplate to get at the dogs to brush out that area.
I'm wondering if there is a timing problem coming in, I have managed to capture the thread when I turn the handwheel which was something I wasn't able to do with the last machine that screwed up on me. But I'm just getting loads of the top thread bunching below the fabric and I'm not sure it's locking with the bobbin thread at all.
I have 2 photos that I was going to ,link to but can't see how I would do that since I don't have a URL location for them to be uploaded to.
One has the needle at the lowest point and the other has the black ring around the needle bar. I can't tell if they are off or not. & last time I tried adjusting the timing on my machine it meant the end of my machine.
Subsequently I'm reluctant to steam in and try to adjust the timing. It does look like the 2 threads are having a hard time connecting though.
This is a real drag since I was in the middle of making a pair of jeans. & yes I do now have a jean a ma jig but this was way before a stage when it would have been in use. It was sewing a piece of drill to a piece of cotton.
I really want to get this pair of jeans finished anda couple of others but am worried I'm bnot going to get this machine back working.
-- Edited on Today at 1:50 PM --

beauturbo
beauturbo
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In reply to Stuggy <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 7/26/14 1:37 PM

No. But when all or most of your top thread ends up in a loopy mess on the bottom side of your fabric, that does meanright then, you have no or very little thread tension on that top thread, and it's all just getting pulled down there. You can't sew like that. So things that make having no or very little top thread tension by accident, are just threaded up wrong for the top thread, or having your top tension dial set to zero by mistake. Also just anytime, your top thread even jumps out of the thread slit in the top tension device as you were sewing along even.

You also have no top tension at all, as soon as yo got so much jeans under the pressure foot, that the foot is just lifted up all the way, like you lifted up the lever that was supposed to do that, just since that makes the tension disks open, in the tension device, you can even take your threaded fabric out. So you can never even try to sew into something that tall. Unless maybe just a stitch or two and only turning the fly wheel by hand instead.

But as long as you can bring the top thread up to the top of the stitch plate and get stitches, you got no timing problems. (yet).

Here's your book if you need it to thread:
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CB8QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fu1.ipernity.com%2F6%2F38%2F32%2F2093832.ed6a9a1d.pdf&ei=HeTTU7f0KsmG8QGNpICQAQ&usg=AFQjCNF90zrHT2slgJyf86GJj-6WAlSpJQ&bvm=bv.71778758,d.b2U&cad=rja

That is such a dinky, small, lightweight 3/4 size machine though, it would be really hard to try to sew a pair of jeans on it.

I think you would be even way better off, with something machne wise, 50 to 60 years old, cast iron, and it still could be free or not cost much at all. I think that kind, should be your next one

-- Edited on Today at 1:42 PM --

denise60s
denise60s
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Date: 7/26/14 1:50 PM

Sounds more like a threading errr to me.
Also, not being able to really get into the
hook race area or under the needle plate
because of a frozen screw is a priority alert
...lint build up can also cause your issues. I
agree about getting a better full sized machine.
Doesn't have to be new! One of the old singers
(circa 40s-60s) heavy, metal mechanicals would
be much less frustrating. And the ones made
during the 60s have ZZ.
-- Edited on Today at 1:52 PM --

------
SM's: Nina 450 Aurora, Singers: 66 w/ back clamping feet, 15-91, 221, 500A Rocketeer, Touch Tronic 2000.

beauturbo
beauturbo
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Date: 7/26/14 2:22 PM

If yu can't undo a stitch plate screw easy though, that probably means the last person whom had it could not either, and so it might be really dirty and clogged up with broken thread and lint.

Those little key things they give you to stick in those screws are almost useless. And they make them short, so you got almost no torque on purpose. that might be good if you used one to put a needle in, just so you could not over torque that, but not if your stitch plate screw is stuck instead at all. Just because then, it makes that machine disposable even quicker and you would have to keep on buying new ones. So, at least use a real screw driver.

If even that does not work, then you got to put some oil or better yet solvent on top of the stitch plate screw, stick one screw driver in it, and just use another screw driver to just tap the first and set up some vibration going down the shaft of the first one, more on it that way, instead. Eventual it will turn. If that is taking too long, you can also hit it with some heat from a hair dryer too, at the same time. But the longer your screw driver is, the more torque you are going to have.

That can be even good or bad, as you don't want too much torque on something if you are going to break it that way instead.

Look at page 8 of your owners manual and notice that the left hand side cover comes off the machine over the thread take up there, ( to just even change your burnt out light bulb) and they show you that. If the stitch plate screw that is stuck is the one on the left underneath that, then yes, unless you had a 90 degree right angled screw driver, you might need to take that cover off first, to even use a screw driver on that screw.

That is also part of what makes really cheap things, get more and more disposable, when maybe they did not really have to be quite that disposable in the first place!
-- Edited on Today at 2:44 PM --

Stuggy
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Stuggy
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Ireland
Member since 3/5/14
Posts: 58
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Date: 7/26/14 2:23 PM

Is there a simple way of getting that screw to move. It's in a really bad place to get pressure on it and only the mutlitool things that came with the machine fit in thanks to the head part being so close above it.
I think I've prefered this machine to the earlier one i had, but it is another LIDL job. I'm hoping that another sewing machine turns up.
Thought I had a couple of leads. Must check up on them next week.

Stuggy
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Stuggy
Advanced Beginner
Ireland
Member since 3/5/14
Posts: 58
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In reply to beauturbo <<


Date: 7/26/14 2:30 PM

THis is the problem though, It isn't easy to get a screwdriver in there because there is something so close above it. Is there such a thing as an L shaped screwdriver or something? Found with the hex key I bought when the timing on the last machine went that the L shape meant the long handle gave it torque. But I don't know what tools are available & only those small multitool things fit where it is. All my other screwdrivers are normal size and I couldn't get them in there. I'm worried taht the slot for the screwdriver blade is getting bent from my trying to apply pressure from the multitol too.

PattyE
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PattyE  Friend of PR
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In reply to Stuggy <<


Date: 7/26/14 3:53 PM

An old knife that fits into the screw slot might give you the torque to loosen that screw. Unless it's a Phillips-head screw, then the knife probably won't work.

stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
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Date: 7/26/14 4:19 PM

I agree with the others--a threading/tension error is a lot more likely/common than a timing problem. Thread nests are part of life when you're learning to use a machine!

As for the screw problem, re-read Beauturbo's second post--she had great advice on using a solvent/oil + vibration + a little heat to loosen up a stuck screw. Also, you might try seeing if a coin will fit in there; I had an older Brother where a dime (US ten cent piece) was the "screwdriver." Heckuva lot easier to use than the weird thing that came with my Viking! You can get a little better torque by using a pair of pliers to hold/turn the "screwdriver"-whatever. (Just had an awkward home improvement project where the screwdrivers/drills just would.not.fit. Vice grips to the rescue! Sewing machines are a much smaller scale, and you'll want to be gentle, but it's the same principle.)

------
~Gem in the prairie

MartiP
MartiP  Friend of PR
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In reply to Stuggy <<


Date: 7/26/14 4:24 PM

If it is the throat plate screw you are talking about, you need an extra long screwdriver with the slim shaft long enough to clear the head. I found one easily at a local hardware store.

------
MartiP

Ruckertt's Law; There is nothing so small that it can't be blown out of proportion.

Bernina 1230 Bernette 007D
Brother CS6000i Brother 2340 CV
New Home L372
Singer 221K (off white)
U.S Blindstitch, Model SL 718/2D
Simplicity SE2
Brother 700II

Stuggy
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Stuggy
Advanced Beginner
Ireland
Member since 3/5/14
Posts: 58
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Date: 7/26/14 5:36 PM

If I could work out how to work photos on here i'd show you what the problem is, it isn't an overlong anything since the screw is under the main body. But I have thought about trying to use pliers on the multitool.
Just thought there might be such a thing as an L shaped screwdriver for whatever purpose.

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