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Forum > Sewing Techniques and Tips > Palmer/Pletch/Marta Alto technique of sewing invisible zippers ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Palmer/Pletch/Marta Alto technique of sewing invisible zippers
How to adapt this technique when sewing in a lining?
purplebouquet
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purplebouquet
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Arkansas USA
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Date: 7/30/14 8:14 PM

Those of you who are familiar with the Palmer/Pletch method of how to sew invisible zippers, perhaps you can advise me how to adapt that method when using not just facings, but a full lining.

I have their DVD "It's in the Details (Sewing. . . Good to Great)," featuring Marta Alto. She demonstrates a nifty technique for sewing invisible zippers and facings, both of which I understand perfectly.

I am now sewing a fully lined skirt with a facing and I don't know how to adapt Marta's facing technique for the lining. In the video, she cuts off the s.a. of the facing where it's sewn on to the zipper so you think the facing will be too short, but she demonstrates this trick of turning the actual zipper a certain way, and it all works out just right.

Do I cut off the s.a. of both the facing and lining now? Or just on the facing, easing the excess fabric into the facing along the stitching line of facing and lining? I am really confused.

Can s.b. make sense of this? Thank you.

Claudia
-- Edited on Today at 8:15 PM --

TGWGWS
TGWGWS  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/31/14 5:56 PM

I'm not familiar with this method, but I would just fold the lining under and hand stitch it to the edge of the facing and zipper.

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Tina
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I do not weep at the world I am too busy sharpening my oyster knife.
zora neal hurston

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jenleeC
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jenleeC  Friend of PR
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In reply to purplebouquet <<


Date: 8/13/14 1:07 AM

Claudia, I am a bit late to the party but since no one else has answered I'll let you know what I do. I haven't seen the Palmer Pletch method but from what you describe it is this method, shown here in a tutorial by pattern~scissors~cloth.

I have used this method for a fully lined shift dress. It would be the same whether you have a full lining or a facing with lining attached. I trim the seam allowance on the facing/lining from the neckline to just above the level of the zipper stop and then taper the trimming out so you are back to the standard seam allowance by approximately 1" below the level of zipper stop. Turn and sew your facing/lining to the zipper tape as per the facing method, although you obviously continue past the facing and down the lining until you are at the level of the zipper stop. Its a bit trickier than just sewing the short facing as you are essentially 'bagging' the lining but it works just the same. Then you just have to sew the CB seam of the lining from below the zipper stop level to the hemline. You will have a little unstitched part about 1" long just below the zipper stop where you have tapered the seam allowance.

If you don't want to bag the lining you could just sew as far as the facing, then turn the garment the right way and hand stitch the lining to the zipper tape after you have sewn the CB seam of the lining.

Gee, its hard to describe in words! I hope this makes sense!!

------
Jenny, Perth, WA

purplebouquet
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purplebouquet
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Date: 8/13/14 1:47 PM

Thank you, both. I ended up easing the excess fabric from the lining to the facing, and that worked quite well.

Claudia

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