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Forum > Sewing Techniques and Tips > Topstitch - One needle, 2 threads. ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Topstitch - One needle, 2 threads.
Bikernando
Bikernando
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North Carolina USA
Member since 8/4/14
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Date: 8/18/14 6:09 PM

I am doing jeans for DW and she likes the white double thread topstitch she seen in some RTW jeans. I have done this a few times, whatever it has been altering/fixing some RTW she already had or this new jean I just finished for her. However, I do have a few issues with this double thread topstitch where the white top stitch thread will show in the wrong side like a little ball. It seems that at times both threads are not being pulled completely. I have guessed that maybe I need to increase my tension at the bobbin as well as in the top.
I am using a Janome HD1000. The top tension is set to 5 1/2. The thread is Gutermann, I think is 100% cotton topstitch thread, the needle is a schmetz jeans 100/18. Thread fits fine in the single needle hole. I run the 2 spools separate at the top tension plates and try my best to have the threads on its "own" lane when threading the machine. Spools are going in opposite direction on the spool holders

Has anyone tried this? Is there at trick to this? What I am missing? I hate to use regular thread as it dont show as good as the topstich.
I have 2 more jeans coming this week. Any help will be appreciated.

Here is the jean I finished last week. In my haste to get it done (was working on it while she was out of the house, im sneaky like that... lol!) I used the wrong size and I end up with a jean that is a few sizes smaller than what it was supposed to be so my surprise end up being a disappointment but I am working on redeeming myself. This time I did the prefit with muslin so I know I have the right size now. She says I gave her a good motivation to do something so she can fit on the first jean... What a trooper!!!










-- Edited on Today at 6:13 PM --
-- Edited on Today at 6:29 PM --

nancymm

nancymm  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/18/14 11:08 PM

I have had luck using thread the color of the fabric in the bobbin i.e.: blue. Also, maybe try lengthening the stitch a little. It worked for me.


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nancymm

aqn
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aqn  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/19/14 1:32 PM

I have never done this (two top threads through one needle's single hole) but top threads bunching on the bottom MIGHT be because there is not enough tension on them? Can you try increasing the top tension and see what happens?

I do know that when I mis-thread the top thread and it doesn't go between the tension plates (resulting in little or no tension on the top thread), the top thread is bunched up on the underside of the fabric.

------
Anna Nguyen \ Austin, TX

Liamsmama
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Liamsmama
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Date: 8/19/14 2:04 PM

I've found that in my machine, the tension has to be MUCH higher when using topstitch thread than with regular thread, it needs more tension to pull the thicker thread back through the fabric. I don't know that I would attempt a double topstitch thread, I don't think my machine could get the tension tight enough. I've had good luck with two regular threads and using the "triple stitch" on my machine. you get the look of thicker threads, you just need to pay a little more attention when going over seams and starting out to make sure the stitches go through the same needle holes.

Bikernando
Bikernando
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Date: 8/19/14 5:35 PM

Initially I wanted to stitch to max length but finished up my first topstitch with the regular setting so I left it at that. I will go higher in the tension and use my second HD1000 just for topstitch. it is a pain to have to keep changing my settings, I should take advantage to that second machine...
Will try that for the short jeans I will start tomorrow, longer stitch and higher tension.

Thanks y'all!

beauturbo
beauturbo
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Date: 8/19/14 6:26 PM

If I feel I don't like how some particular thread or thread spool is feeding off any machine, then most times I try to get it off the actual machine, by putting the thread on a single hook upright thread stand to the right of the machine instead. Sometimes that is a good thing. Just since then the thread can feed off more directly up wards, before it goes side ways and into the tension device of a machine. You could always try that with just one or even both spools and see if you liked it any better that way.

I think two strands of Gutermann Cotton topstitching thread at 30 weight each = about a single 15 weight thread. Which is still a bit smaller around than even lots of more normal 12 weight top stitching or decorative kinds of thread.

You could also try a size 16 topstitch needle as the eye would be about the same size and see if you liked that any better or not.

You could also try running both upper threads through the same tension disks even, and not even separate ones at all, if you wanted to. For top stitching something, I don't even have to always have my bottom and top threads always meeting right in the middle of the fabric even. (Unless both sides are really going to show. Sometimes I like even thinner thread on the bottom and having the thicker thread more couched down on the top even.

Or even try winding two stands of it on the bobbin instead, and only one or thinner thread on the top, and sewing more upside down, and maybe you might like that too. You would just have to try and play around with anything, to maybe see what you might like best on anything.

PattiAnnJ
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PattiAnnJ
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Date: 8/19/14 7:09 PM

Practice with scraps and when adjusting the upper tension, do so with the presser foot down.



-- Edited on Today at 7:24 PM --

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"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

Geejay
Geejay
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In reply to Bikernando <<


Date: 8/20/14 4:30 AM

When I topstitch on jeans I don't change the tension and I use two regular threads through the needle. I use a 90 topstitch or jeans needle. I use two slightly different colour threads if I need to match up ,also when I get to the needle thread guide one goes in the guide one goes in front.

If you are using two topstitch threads which are thicker I may try to lower the tension back to normal,and see what happens.

Bikernando
Bikernando
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North Carolina USA
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Posts: 27
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Date: 8/21/14 4:28 PM

I went up in both the bobbin and upper tension and it is looking a heck lot better. I still had a handful of incidents where you could see a bit of the white but they were definitely not a small hoop/ball nor anything that I could easily pull with my thread ripper. I think this is solved. Thanks y'all!

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