Article

Haute Halter    (07/20/09)

Step-By-Step Ruffle up a soft knit for a hot little dress. For twice the fun, also wear it as a funky top. Discuss this Article on the Boards Click Here About the Author Jennifer Sauer has three loves, teaching, fashion and writing. She is a full-time professor of fashion design at Gibbs College in CT. She is also designing a a line of purses which will launch very soon this summer. In her free time, Jennifer likes to lounge on the beach at her 1920s cottage in Milford, CT. You will learn from her on PatternReview through her articles. Haute Halter by Jennifer Sauer Ah, the Eighties... The decade of Bananarama, Dallas and Dynasty, Big Red (“Kiss a little longer”), jelly shoes, and big hair has infiltrated modern fashion. Here's my nod to that, like, totally awesome decade. This jersey-knit dress doubles as a sweet tube top. Just layer it on over a T-shirt or tank, scrunch it up over your hips, and pair with some bodacious leggings and booties. And, hey, because the Eighties were about instant gratification, I made this design super simple: it's just a tube of fabric ruched and ruffled down the front. The extra-long halter tie -- that you can wrap and tie in all sorts of fun ways--is optional. The bottom line: you'll be lookin' rad in less than an hour. GNARLY BONUS: The ruffled, gathered look is very flattering: it can enhance a smallish bust, hide a tummy, and camouflage a not-so-perfect rear. On larger busts, it's super flattering too. Just make sure that you pin the top first before sewing to make sure you like the silhouette. STEP BY STEP 1. Measure This dress starts out with a rectangle of a jersey knit. The fabric is very forgiving, and will stretch around your curves. Measure your bust, waist and hip. The widest measurement will become the width of your fabric rectangle, plus 8 inches (for the ruffle down the front). Decide on a length. The dress shown here is 45 inches long, but you can make it longer or shorter. INSIDER TIP: The stripes in the fabric shown run along the lengthwise grain. I wanted them to wrap around the body, so I broke a sewing law and flipped the fabric. (I love to be a rebel.) 2. Sew a tube Buy a walking foot, if you can. It feeds the jersey evenly under the needle (translation: no unwanted stretching and puckers). Fold your fabric in half, wrong sides together and aligning the raw edges. Pin-mark in 4 inches from the raw edges, as shown. Baste. Dial up a long stitch length, and baste from the top edge of the garment to about 12 inches down. Pull the bobbin thread to gather your ruffles. Gather evenly or unevenly, your choice. With a regular stitch length, sew again from the top edge to the bottom edge.   BREAK THE LAW AGAIN: Jersey is wonderful because you don't need to finish the raw edges. The ruffle edges and hem won't ravel. In fact, a hem would interrupt the soft, easy flow of this fabric. 4. Add a Halter Tie The halter tie is optional, but I recommend it. I cut one 3 inches wide by 66 inches long on the straight grain. If you tie it at the back of your neck, it trails down your spine (v. sexy). Or, you can wrap it around the neck in a variety of ways, like a scarf. But, first, reinforce the top edge with clear elastic. Wrap a piece of 1/4 inch-wide elastic around your chest, right above your bust. Make sure it's snug but not breath-catching tight. Overlap the edges of the elastic and tack in place. Then divide the elastic and top edge of the dress into quarters, as shown. Pin the elastic inside the tube, about 3/4 inches down from the top edge. Sew in place with two rows of stitching. INSIDER TIP: The clear elastic gathers up the top edge AND gently grips your skin when you wear the dress. Goodbye, embarrassing slippage! Click here to learn how to apply clear elastic Sew on the halter tie. Fold the tie in half lengthwise. Then find the middle point of the tie and sew it to the inside of the dress, right along the ruffle seam. Done and done! PHOTO CREDITS Model: Rachele Patrignelli Suggested Sources for Jersey Knits Emma One Sock Fabric.com Lucy's Fabrics [ Friends of PR get 10% at Lucys! ] Mood Fabrics Vogue Fabrics Copyright © 2009 PatternReview.com® All rights reserved.