Article

Go Beyond the Edge    (10/29/09)

Step-By-Step Rare, raw and deliciously frayed. Plus girly trims--just for fun. Discuss this Article on the Boards Click Here About the Author Jennifer Sauer has three loves, teaching, fashion and writing. She is a full-time professor of fashion design at Gibbs College in CT. In her free time, Jennifer likes to lounge on the beach at her 1920s cottage in Milford, CT. You will learn from her on PatternReview through her articles. Go Beyond the Edge by Jennifer Sauer A skinny bias strip of charmeuse is fluted and hand-stitched along the neck, front and sleeves. Last week, I met my mother for lunch. I wore a tassel necklace I recently crafted (shown in the vest photo below). A fashionista herself, she first took in my outfit, head to toe, and exclaimed over the necklace. Then she followed with a cheerful, "You're such a hippie, Jen." No argument here. As fashions go, I lean to the left. I love all things tassel-y, frayed, and deconstructed. Fabrics and silhouette come first, then I like to add a touch of fun, femininity, and whimsy. I'm not alone. Here, I'll point you to raw, embellished edges I spotted in the fall and spring runway shows. Finally, I'll show-and-tell four designs I created to take my wardrobe from early fall through deep, dark winter. And, finally, into spring. FIND INSPIRATION ...from runway to realway Raw edges step into spring. Check out the necklines, waist--heck, all the edges. (Cynthia Rowley, Spring 2010, courtesy of Style.com) Girly trimmed edges on necklines, collars, and hems. Oh my. (Anna Sui, Spring 2010, courtesy of Style.com) Layers at the hems. At far right, some front-and-center treatments, as well as trim along pockets, shoulders. (Peter Som, Fall 2009, courtesy of Style.com) It's In The Details Before I get into my rough-and-tumble methods, however, let me give you permission to break a few rules. In all of the below techniques, it's best to use a light hand. There is such a thing as over-sewing--by hand and machine. Keep it loose and let the edges fall where they may. And be prepared to love the techniques. Sewing on the edge can be oh-so-addictive. FOUR EDGES Here are some edges that can be subtle or standout, depending on your choice of fabrics and trims. There are fantastic trims out there, so go wild. 1. Frayed & Uneven Pick or draft a simple boxy vest or shift-dress pattern. Chop up the pattern into vertical strips, then add seam allowances to each edge. For designer flair, angle your lines and make sure the strips are all uneven widths. Here, I paired two colors of silk noil. Again, notice I didn't evenly alternate the colors. Keep 'em guessing, I always say. Sew the strips together, but leave the hem edges raw. And make sure some pieces are angled a tad longer than the rest. Fray the edges by tossing the finished garment into the washing machine and dryer. Clip any long threads, and it's ready to wear. GOOD NEWS: The more you wash this top, the softer and more frayed the edges.   2. Seam-Allowance Sandwich O.K., you caught me. Technically, a seam isn't an edge. (Or is it simply two edges sewn together? Hmm?) You can layer strips of fabric, as described here, however, and sew it to an edge. I wrote an article for Threads Magazine on this technique. See the link below for more details. First use pinking shears to cut your main fabric pieces. This gives you a jagged yet sturdy edge. Next, cut bias strips (on a 45-degree angle to the selvage) from a lighter-weight fabric. It's better to cut them to a generous width here. Too-skinny can create stress. Pin the strip between the garment layers, then sew by machine as usual. I like to use a walking foot. It makes sure the layers feed evenly over the feed dogs. TIP: On this tweed skirt, I also layered in a strip of bias netting. Nice contrast to the wool and silk, I thought. Press the seam flat on both sides to sink the stitches. Then press open. Fray the edges of the bias strips with your fingernail or a clean toothbrush. 3. Fluted bias strips Like any softly quilted tweed jackets, mine needed a little trim along the front and neck edges, and on the sleeves. I went for textured, yet dainty, layers. But feel free to opt for big and bold. Pin a sheer 1/4-inch wide ribbon to the edges and hand sew in place. Cut skinny bias strips (on a 45-degree angle to the selvage) of silk charmeuse: just shy of 1/4-inch-wide. Hand-sew the strips over the sheer ribbon. Flute them every 1/2-inch to give it some curves. TIP: I cut bias strips from the charmeuse I used as the jacket lining. And I anchored a link of gold chain at the neck. Fancy, eh? 4. Ribbon-Backed Pleats You can add ribbon or trim to any edge or hem. Simply press under the edge, and follow the steps below. Press the pleat in place. Pin a length of ribbon or trim behind the pleat. Edge- or topstitch through all layers to secure the trim. TIP: If the trim or fabric is slippery, hand-baste the trim on first to secure. With a hand-needle and thread, pinch the edges of the ribbon every 1/2-inch or so (as shown on the yellow ribbon). PHOTO CREDITS ALL: Jen Sauer Suggested Reading: An Expose on Deconstructed Seams by Carol Fresia, Judith Neukam, and Jennifer Sauer (Threads Magazine Oct/Nov 2006) Decorative Wide Hems by Jennifer Sauer (Threads Magazine Apr/May 2006). Copyright © 2009 PatternReview.com® All rights reserved.