Question posted by LeilaB:

"I'm a beginner sewer. I sewed when I was 12 for awhile, but then I stopped and now I'm 26. I'd really like to begin making my own bathing suit designs. When I went to see about buying a sewing machine the other day, the woman there told me I had to get a serger to make swimsuits. She said that since they are very expensive (she only had one type and it was 940 euros!) and since I haven't sewn a lot, I should buy a regular sewing machine with an overlock-like function - not the same, but similar.

"She said there is no machine, other than a serger, that has this specific overlock function you need to make bathing suits. Is this true??? I'm not sure I believe her since she was trying to sell me this one machine that she said I should buy instead, that had the overlock-like function. I decided to think about it, then I went back yesterday and she sold that same machine to this other customer! She was saying, "Oh this is exactly what you need- and it's the only one we've got!" after that, I just left. Maybe that machine was a promo from the manufacturer or something.

"What kind of machine should I buy? Is there one that can sew bathing suits that can also sew other things as well, so that I don't have to have one machine that only sews one type of thing?

"Any advice truly is appreciated!" 

Members answered with this advice...

julie w said...

Although a serger can give a nice finish on swimsuits, it is not necessary to have one. All you need is a sewing machine that can sew a zig zag and the use of a ball point or stretch needle. This link may help: Swimwear? Looking for advice/encouragement!

Sharon1952 said...

I agree with julie w; it is not absolutely necessary to have a serger although it makes the job faster and easier. What is essential is that you have no more than 1/4" seams and they must be covered to prevent ravelling. If you are careful in your fabric selection and don't make the suits fit too tightly, a zig zag stitch will work fine. You'll need to use scrap fabric to practice how wide and long to make the zig zag so it will stretch but not break. Make certain you stretch the fabric as you sew. Best wishes in your sewing!

Tip from PhyllisC: Fully line a swimsuit and hide the seams. 

ChristineBR said...

You don't need a serger if you have a zigzag stitch on your machine and a little patience. I would suggest in investing in the Kwik Sew book on swimsuits as it has instructions, tips and covers sewing machine as well as serger construction. In addition, it has a wealth of patterns included.

Lynnelle said...

You may want to try posting your question on the message boards, too.

chelsy21 said...

If you can find a Stretch & Sew swimsuit book or one of their old basic 8 books - just called "Stretch & Sew", there are good instructions for sewing swimwear with just a straight stitch & zig zag sewing machine. Sergers are nice, but not necessary. People have been sewing swimsuits long before sergers were common to the home sewer. Good luck with your search!

Tip from rhoda bicycle: Derriere adjustment for swimsuits.

CSY said...

Kwik Sew patterns have execellent swimsuit patterns and instructions. The Stretch and Sew book is nearly impossible to find. Kwik Sew's book Swim and Action Wear by Kerstin Martensson is also a top notch resource and comes with patterns. I never use my serger. I use my sewing machine's basic zigzag because it does a great job and I feel I have great control over my stitching. I have made over 6 swimsuits this way and they have all turned out great. Methinks someone either doesn't know what she is talking about or wants to sell you a serger in the worst way. 

 Tip from Agnes: Substitution formula woven stretch fabric

joann said...

I learned to make bathing suits through Stretch & Sew. You can still buy their patterns and I'm sure their books. As others have said you only need the straight stitch and a zigzag. I never covered the seams since the fabric is a knit and doesn't ravel. The website is stretch-and-sew.com and they have 2 swimsuit patterns, but not their old books. The one I have is titled The Stretch&Sew Book, Part 2 , by Ann Person,and should be available used. The great thing about the S&S patterns is they are multi-sized and are accurately sized. I learned a lot from their classes on knits back in the 70's.

Tip from Teeavilnor: Stabilizing swimwear fabric.

Kelly D. said...

Leila, you can absolutely sew lovely swimsuits with a regular sewing machine with zig-zag capability as noted in the other comments. I recently made 2 great swimsuits from a Kwik Sew pattern to take on a trip using only my Bernina 1530 even though I own a serger also! It's a matter of choice, but I think I get a more professional look by using a double needle on my regular machine to finish all the edges since my serger does not have cover-stitch capability. A cover-stitch is that double row of top-stitching you see at all the hems and edges of ready-to-wear knit garments, including swimsuits. Since swimsuit fabric does not ravel, you don't really need to overcast the edges, but you do need to use stitches that can stretch with the fabric or your seams will pop. Kwik Sew has published a great book on sewing swimsuits and there have also been some good articles in Threads Magazine on the topic. I found the Kwik Sew book at my local library and have checked it out several times. Definitely do more research before you make your final decision about what kind of machine to get. I think it would be hard to have only a serger if you plan to do any general sewing. Most people I know who only have one machine have a regular machine. You are wise not to rely on the advice of a salesperson in a shop. You would be much better off finding friends who sew to advise you or even the people who sell fabric (but not machines) in your area. I hope this helps. Good luck!

One of Kelly D.'s swimsuits

betta1 said...

Whoops - should have checked comments better - y'all have it covered! Gail

Passion4Sewing said...

Serger truly is the best machine to make swimsuits. One can use a regular home machine, but you will get a neater, cleaner look with a serger. If you truly cannot afford a serger, you can use a zig-zag or three-step zigzag stitch on your home machine. I have never used the home machines that have the serger-like function, but a repairman once told me after I had brought him my serger (for the fourth time!) that converted to a cover-stitch machine that machines work best when they only perform one function. Some sergers also have an additional foot called an elasticator which will adjust how much stretch you have on the elastic as you apply around arm and leg openings. This is very useful. I have a White 2000 ATS and love it. It is priced well for all the things it can do. Hope this helps.

Passion4Sewing made this McCall's 6579 OOP skirted swimsuit.

ericaequites said...

A serger can be very nice to have, but is not necessary to sew swimwear. Most swim suit patterns havea 6mm seam allowance. I like to sew with a small zigzig, length 2.-2.5mm and width 1mm. Stretch the fabric slightly as you sew, and use a brand new Stretch needle for each project. Be sure to buy 1 cm or whatever width the pattern recommends swimwear elastic. Regular elastic will rot when exposed to salt water or chlorine from swimming pools. Choose a fabric with sufficient stretch, and line the suit with swimwear lining fabric or a thin swimwear fabric. When cutting out, be sure the greatest degree of stretch goes around the body. If you plan to buy a sewing amchine, visit some stores that specialize in selling sewing machines and do their own repairs on site. You can find a used machine with a small variety of stitches and a one step buttonhole for far less than 940 euros, perhaps around 200 or so? A swimsuit is not the best first project. Try making something from firmly woven cotton first like a tote or apron. Then, a more fitted project like a skirt will help you learn more. Check your local library for books on sewing techniques. 

DSJG said...

You can make bathing suits with a regular zig zag sewing machine. When I was your age my girlfriend & I actually made suits & sold them. Experiment with tension & stitch length and width with a zig zag stitch or stretch type stitch. Also use a ball point or specialty needle for stretch fabrics. Use thread recommended for your fabric type. They will turn out beautiful. 

Tip from BrianSews: Perfect swimsuit and underwear leg elastic.

corma said...

Hi Leila. I did a knitwit course years ago and we used the stretchstitch on my machine. You will have to get a multisized pattern. Which will need cups put in them. Lining and swimwear elastic. If you use normal elastic you will loose your cossie in water. It is fun to do for a while but now I buy my swimmers. Corma

Tip from ggexpansive: Muffin top stop.

Longarm said...

A beginning sewer needs a standard sewing machine first and foremost because of how it can sew finely detailed seams, but eventually a serger will become equally important. A serger comes into play on seam-finishing for so many types of things you make, from curtains to knits, to regular clothing. And a serger can make pretty rolled edges on napkins and tablecloths, or interesting details done with specialty threads. Mostly, though, a serger is a real work horse in the sewing studio, and not a rare now and then tool. Think of the difference between a dress with raw cut seam edges inside, vs one that has nicely overlocked seam edges that will go through the laundry without shredding or becoming unsightly. The final result of your project jumps from looking very "beginner skill level" to more professionally done. See why you just have to have one?! Get one as soon as you can afford it, after your sewing machine. 

ceip said...

I make leotards, not bathing suits, but similar fabric and issues. My machine is old (20+ years!) and was not super-expensive. It has an overlock stitch that looks sort of like little stacked triangles. It does not trim the seam like a serger but the seam is just as good as a serger would make. There is added difficulty to trim the seam, but for the price and complication of a serger, I am happy to stick with my "regular" marchine.

See more swimsuit tips.

See swimsuit patterns.

Read discussions about swimsuits.

Want to learn about using a serger? Check out our new video class "Break Your Serger Out of the Box."

Already got your feet wet with serging?  Sign up for "Serging Ahead with Your 5 Thread Serger."

Got a question about sewing a swimsuit?  Start a topic on the Message Board.

New Patterns from Colette, Angela Wolf, and a Bathing Suit from Closet Case Files!

It’s always exciting to see new patterns from the independent pattern companies.  We expect something new and wonderful from them, and we’re not disappointed!  Let’s see what’s new on that front today…

First off, we have something exciting from a PR member…that’s right!  And soooo appropriate for Northern Hemisphere weather right now.  It’s the Bombshell Swimsuit from heatherlou of Closet Case Files.

Closet Case Files Bombshell Swimsuit

Sizes: 4 – 18

Digital Pattern

Description: The Bombshell is modeled on a classic 1950's silhouette, a style that harkens back to the golden era of flattering, sexy and modest swimsuits. 

The pattern includes 3 variations in 8 sizes: a gathered bust maillot, a halter neck, and a high waist bottom which you can mix and match with your favorite bikini top. Ruched on all sides and along the back center seam, the Bombshell hugs your curves while providing full (but sexy) coverage. Its booty-encasing seat and skirt-like front ensure your butt is covered (literally), avoiding the dreaded 4-cheek butt-bulge of higher cut suits. Fully lined, it will keep you decent in or out of the water.

Suggested Fabric: Swimsuit lycra ONLY.  Lining: Swimsuit lining.

Read a review for the Bombshell Swimsuit.

Turn heads in this curve-hugging classic that combines gamine styling with a flattering and feminine fit.

Colette Patterns 1026 Hawthorn

Sizes: 0 - 18

Paper Pattern

Description:   A semi-circle skirt provides volume without the extra bulk of pleats or gathers at your waist, so you get a clean, streamlined look that's still beautifully feminine. The bodice is fitted with waist darts, while still providing just enough room to keep things comfortable.

While a flat collar and fitted shape give Hawthorn that late 1950s charm, menswear-inspired details like the sleeve cuff and placket lend classic touches that never go out of style. You'll be wearing Hawthorn year round, easily styling it with belts, cardigans, and jewelry.

Version 1 is a short sleeved peplum blouse, which pairs perfectly with a pencil skirt or our slim Clover pants. Version 2 has 3/4 length sleeves with a cuff and menswear-style placket. Version 3 is sleeveless, with armholes finished with bias tape inside (so no annoying facings poking out).

Sew the Clover Pants to go with this!

See other Colette Patterns.

This Fringe Skirt is what every wardrobe needs!  Do you think of tweeds as heavy?  Not so with the fringe hem!  It’s a great way to lighten up a pencil skirt and make it look different. 

Angela Wolf 3106 The Fringe Skirt

Sizes: 0 – 16

Paper or Digital Pattern

Description:  This fringe skirt offers a stylish look for day or evening.  Approximate length: 18”.  Back zip enclosure.  Fringed hem.  Fully lined (optional).

Suggested Fabric: Tweed fabric, preferable one that will fray.  Silk or wool tweed, acetate blend.  Lining: Rayon, polyester, silk.

See other Angela Wolf patterns.

Make a jacket to match!  See the video class The Contemporary Couture Jacket and other classes by Angela Wolf.

See more patterns from more independent pattern companies!

We’ve talked a lot on PR about sustainable fashion, and designers like Kristiann of Victory Patterns are listening.

Victory Patterns 1005 Lola Dress

House of Pinheiro models the Lola Dress.

Read the reviews.  Rated Easy & Great for Beginners and Highly Recommended!

Kristiann left her job as a costume maker and spent the next ten months writing a business plan and developing the first collection of patterns. What she loves most about these patterns is that they encourage the creation of more sustainable, socially conscious clothing. 

Victory Patterns 1001 Anouk Top and Dress

dixiediy models the Anouk Dress.

Read the reviews.  Rated Highly Recommended.

Kristiann says, “Whether you know it or not, by making your own clothes and buying less fast fashion, you are doing a small part to make this world a better place! I hope you find something that you like for yourself. Make it with care and take pride in knowing that each stitch is made with love by you!”

Victory Patterns Simone Top and Dress: Highly Recommended by ChildoftheWild

We are pleased to introduce Victory Patterns to PatternReview members who haven’t heard of them yet.

Victory Patterns 1008 Satsuki Dress And Blouse

Victory Patterns 1008 Satsuki Dress And Blouse: Highly Recommended by Westy85

Victory Patterns are available in digital and paper format.

See all the Victory Patterns.

See all the reviews so far for Victory Patterns.

We told you about a giveaway of three books donated by Creative Publishing.  To enter, we asked you to tell us about your favorite sewing book, and you did!

We have chosen three random winners to each receive one of these books:

Singer Complete Photo Guide to Sewing by the Editors of Creative Publishing

Successful Serging: From Setup to Simple and Specialty Stitches by Beth Ann Baumgartel

Making Trousers for Men & Women:  A Multimedia Sewing Workshop by David Coffin

And the winners are (drumroll, please…):

jennielee226 – She said that her favorite sewing book is:

“Colette Sewing Handbook by Sarai Mitnick (This woman practically taught me how to sew).”

 mjmoss – Her favorite book is:

“Sewing for Toddlers by Stretch-N-Sew. It tells you how to adapt patterns to get additional clothing for kids. Like turning a t-shirt into a dress.”

SWoerner - She said: 

“The book that I refer to most is The Colette Handbook. Since I haven't been sewing that frequently for the past several years, I am trying to learn all the new techniques and easier ways to put garments together.”

Thanks to everyone who entered and shared their favorite sewing books with us!

Looking for a new favorite?  Order one of the above giveaway books! (Click on the book covers above to read more about them, or read our giveaway posting.)

Visit the Creative Publishing website to find more sewing books you absolutely must have!

Don’t forget about one more Creative Publishing book you need to have in your library (if you don’t already!).

What sewing book do you rely on most heavily?

Tell us about it in the comment section below!

Or, join the discussion on Facebook.

Here’s what other members said on Facebook:

Reader's Digest Complete Book of Sewing. It's a mid-80s edition.

Me too - but the latest edition.

The same from 1976.

My 70s Vogue Sewing book (first metric edition!).

Vogue Sewing.

Power Sewing by Sandra Betzina.

The Internet and YouTube!

Fabric Savvy and Power Sewing by Sandra Betzina.

The one called "YouTube"

Reader's Digest!!!

Reader's Digest 1976 and current edition and Vogue Sewing 1970's.

Reader's Digest for me too.

Funny, I thought I was the only one who still loves the Reader's Digest sewing book!

Reader's Digest (1976-very popular), current edition is highly recommended to our students and my favorite for vintage directions is the 1943 edition of The Complete Book of Sewing by Constance Talbot.

Clotilde's Sew Smart - my mother just sent it to me and it's really good.

The Internet!

Reader's Digest Complete Book of Sewing 1976 is the best!

YouTube!

Another vote for Readers Digest Complete Guide the 1978 version!

Reader's Digest. Mine is the 1976 version.

Reader Digest! It's very good, but I had no idea it was so popular with others!

I did not know Reader's Digest issued such book - worth to check. I am using the most Vogue sewing book and all the Claire Shaeffer couture books... also my old school books...it is a lot.

Vogue Sewing book, picked mine up at an op shop years ago.

My #1 is Reader's Digest Complete Book of Sewing, late '90s edition. It was the book my 1st sewing instructor highly recommended and to this day she is still correct, I refer back to it more than all the others I have bought since.

Reader's Digest Complete Book of Sewing!

Gertie's book and metric pattern cutting - Aldrich

Like so many others, Reader's Digest!

McCall's has best fit for me with least adaptions to be made to it.

The Sewing Bible by Ruth Singer.

Shona Tomberlin Roon Colette Sewing Handbook...and Google.

Pattern Fitting by Nancy Zieman.

For years it was my Vogue Sewing Book from the early 80's, then it was Power Sewing and a beautifully photographed book from Singer, Sewing Essentials, I think. Now, I could not narrow it down to one book, but I spend a lot of time with Claire Schaeffer's Couture Sewing Techniques.

I had to quit "liking" all the Reader's Digest ones. My mouse finger cramped! That one is my go-to (1973 edition, I think). I've been using Claire Schaeffer's Couture and Susan Khalje's Bridal Couture a lot lately, too.

Palmer & Pletsch, "Fit for Real People".

My only sewing book is The Batsford Book of Sewing, which I got in England in 1990. It was published in 1979 but is such a great reference book.

Add a new favorite to your library! It's not too late to enter our Creative Publishing Book Giveaway.  You have 'til 11:59 tonight!

Natural fibers…we love to sew them and wear them.  When we do, we feel so…ecologically correct!

86 members were on board with this feeling for the Natural Fabrics Contest.

Contestants had to follow these simple rules: make an item using only 100% natural fibers- silk, wool, cotton, linen, hemp, leather or suede (not faux). For this contest, blends were not allowed. The fiber used must be 100% ONE fiber, i.e., 100% silk NOT 50% silk/50% cotton.

Any wearable garment was an acceptable entry: a skirt, top, dress, pants, PJs, or a jacket or coat for a woman, man or child.  However, home dec and accessories were not allowed in this contest.  See more rules.

All of us natural fabric lovers are drooling over the entries in the Contest Gallery.

How hard it must have been to stick to just 5 votes for this one!

Let’s meet the winners.

First Prize: clothingengineer for StyleArc: Stella Coat

clothingengineer chose the StyleArc Stella Coat to fill in the “spring coat gap” in her wardrobe.  She also wanted to practice her tailoring skills on this fitted coat before trying out something more complicated. 

She found that the directions for the coat were not that easy to follow, but she did her best on her own and used online tutorials to learn how to bag the lining. 

For fabric, she used an Italian double-faced cotton twill from Mood.  For the lining, she used nylon taffeta from Fabric Mart, and for the interfacings, she used Pro-Weft Light, Pro-Weft Medium, Pro-Sheer Elegance Light, Pro-Sheer Elegance Medium, and fusible hair canvas, all from Fashion Sewing Supply.  The lining and fashion fabric cost her less than $30.

One thing she liked about the StyleArc pattern is the fact that StyleArc provides the lining pieces.  She’s been hesitant to make a Burda jacket or coat because she found that Burda expects you to draft your own lining.

She didn’t need to make any pattern alterations, other than adding topstitching to the back yoke.  She did make a number of fitting adjustments, though. 

This is the first tailored coat that she has ever made.  It took her a week to execute all the steps involved.

Would she sew it again?  She says, “Yes! I think it is a great first coat project because of the mandarin collar and lack of closures, plus there's not huge amount of ease. It let me finally cross off 'structured coat' off my sewing bucket list."  She is already planning Version 2 of this coat in a navy twill she has sitting in her stash.

Congratulations, clothingengineer!

Second Prize: nicegirl for BurdaStyle Magazine: 06-2013-102 Pleated Flowing Gatsby Dress

Congratulations, nicegirl!

And congratulations to all our contestants!

Thanks to Schmetz Needles for sponsoring this contest.

Thanks to  arianamaniacs for managing this contest.

See all the entries for this contest.

See the Contest Report and Rules.

Read the “behind the scenes” contestant talk.

It’s time for another giveaway!  And this is a great one!

We’re giving away three fantastic sewing books donated by Creative Publishing International! Here’s what the publisher has to say about the books.

Singer Complete Photo Guide to Sewing

By the Editors of Creative Publishing

The Complete Photo Guide to Sewing – Revised is the one reference every sewer needs. Its 352 pages and 1100 photographs cover every aspect of fashion and décor sewing. Sections include choosing the right tools and notions, using conventional machines and sergers, fashion sewing, tailoring, and home décor projects. Included are step-by-step instructions for basic projects like pillows, tablecloths, and window treatments. Sewers from beginners to the skilled will turn to this book again and again.

Successful Serging: From Setup to Simple and Specialty Stitches

By Beth Ann Baumgartel

This "at your fingertips" reference contains hundreds of techniques and tips for making the most of the serger, or overlock, machine—a versatile and speedy tool for stitching garments and home decor. 

Readers will learn how the serger works, the many styles available, and the variety of functional and decorative stitches possible. There are also easy-to-find-and-follow charts—of thread choices, must-have accessories, and best stitches for a range of fabric types. This book is an easy-reference collection of basic techniques, tips, and helpful information for anyone who is learning about or already owns a serger.

Making Trousers for Men & Women:  A Multimedia Sewing Workshop

By David Coffin

Comfortable, flattering pants can be challenging to make—but they’re wonderful to wear. In this book, David Coffin provides his inventive, sure-fire methods for getting it right.

With his characteristic precision and straight talk—and with the help of photographs, drawings, and a series of video sequences on the accompanying DVD—Coffin teaches the reader how to get great results, whether making a showcase garment or just whipping out an everyday pair.

To win one of these books, tell us the title of the most valuable and often-referred-to book in your sewing library in the comment field below.

We will choose three random winners to receive a book.  You have until 11:59 EST on Thursday, June 13 to post your answer.

To qualify for this giveaway, you must have joined PatternReview by June 11, 2012 (a year ago), and you must have a profile picture (NOT the generic dancing PR person).

See instructions for adding a profile picture.

Questions about adding a profile picture? Post them here. 

Update: We've announced the winners!

Designer Melissa Mora founded Blank Slate Patterns when she couldn't find a toddler-sized blazer pattern for her then 3-year-old son. Mom to two boys and a former theatre teacher/costumer, she has been sewing for more than 30 years. 

Her patterns are known for their flawless construction instructions that don't shy away from ready-to-wear details like functioning fly front zippers; instead, Blank Slate patterns strive to make those details clear and accessible to home sewists.

Melissa was interviewed by Noelle Mac.

Can you tell us about how you got started designing patterns?

I've been sewing since I was 3, and for 12 years worked in the theatre where I constantly had to create costumes. After I had my first son, I looked high and low for a blazer pattern for him in toddler sizes, and there wasn't one. So I drafted it, others expressed interest, and my first pattern was born. 

What kinds of fabrics do you tend to be drawn toward?

I tend to be drawn towards natural fibers - twill, linen, cotton shirting and knits. I also find myself gravitating toward geometric prints. 

 Do you sew for yourself as well as your children?

I started sewing for myself and sewed for myself throughout middle school, high school and college. I even made all my bridesmaid dresses, while my mom made my wedding dress. 

What did you do before you became a pattern drafter?

I worked as a high school theatre teacher before quitting to devote myself to my business full-time. The blog and the patterns were both launched as side projects while I was still teaching full time, and as they grew I realized that blogging/designing was actually a viable full-time job for me. After a careful business plan and financial support was in place, I took the plunge and quit teaching. 

Do you get asked to make custom pieces very often?

I do get asked for custom pieces, but no longer take custom requests, though I did in the past.

How has your blogging gone since you started Blank Slate?

My blog came before Blank Slate Patterns, so it's great for driving traffic over to my pattern shop, but it's also really nice to have it as an entity of its own. For many years in school I wanted to be a writer, and through my blog now I am. I love that I've been able to grow the blog and then the pattern business hand in hand and create a job for myself that is creatively fulfilling and gives me the flexibility to be there for my kids. 

See all the Blank Slate Patterns.

Visit Melissa’s Blog. 

Time for you to vote in the Natural Fabrics Contest!  The contestants are waiting for your approval!

Contestants had to follow these simple rules: make an item using only 100% natural fibers- silk, wool, cotton, linen, hemp, leather or suede (not faux). For this contest, blends were not allowed. The fiber used must be 100% ONE fiber, i.e., 100% silk NOT 50% silk/50% cotton.

Any wearable garment was an acceptable entry: a skirt, top, dress, pants, PJs, or a jacket or coat for a woman, man or child.  However, home dec and accessories were not allowed in this contest.

See more rules.

Vote for your favorites (up to 5 times).

Voting ends on June 9, 2013.

Warm weather means that we don’t need to wear pants so much.  It also means we can wear dresses.  Let’s hear it for warm weather!

The new Butterick patterns give us lots of dress choices (not to mention tops, accessories – like a corset, and other things.  See them all.).

But let’s talk about the dresses…

There's a definite salute to the past in the styles we're showing here (thank you, Noelle Mac, for the selection!).

Butterick 5916 Misses’ Dress

Difficulty: Easy

Sizes: 8-16, 16-24

This is a 50’s style dress with a modern twist.  The skirt is narrow, ideal to wear with high-heels, and we love the peplum.  Change it up for cooler weather (this is a fall collection too) and sew it with ¾ length sleeves.  Don’t like the pencil skirt?  Make View C with the godets.  View C doesn’t have a peplum, but you can set your waist off with one of your own contrasting belts.

Description:  Semi-fitted dress has lined yoke fronts and mock wrap bodice, and back zipper. A: self-lined sleeves. A and B: single-layer peplum (wrong side shows) with narrow hem, and back hemline pleat. C: side front and back seam, and godets. A/B, C, D cup sizes.

Suggested Fabrics; Designed for lightweight woven fabrics.  Crepes, Faille, Linens, Challis.

Butterick 5917 Misses’ Dress

Difficulty: Easy

Sizes: 6-14, 14-22

This dress is so much fun.  The ruffles frame the neck in just the right way with the empire waist, and you have the option of three sleeve types (none, short, and ¾ length with ruffles).  And you can change the skirt from narrow to gored, another salute to the past!

Description: Dress has ruffles, semi-fitted, lined bodice and inset, raised waist and back zipper. A: self-lined sleeves. A and B: semi-fitted skirt and stitched hem. C: lined sleeves and narrow hem.

Suggested Fabrics: Designed for lightweight woven fabrics.  Silk Tweed, Crepe, Seersucker.

5919 View B

5919 View A

Butterick 5919 Misses’ Dress

Difficulty: Easy

Sizes: 6-14, 14-22

This dress is unique in its open back and its interesting front neck on View B.  Choose View B’s full skirt, View A’s pencil skirt or View C’s back flounce.  Are you sensing a theme with these dresses?  Full or pencil? Angel or devil, as a 50’s song says?  Sleeves are varied too: none, capped, or ¾ length.  That back is cool in more ways than one!

Description: Lined dress has fitted bodice with side front and side back seams, skirt variations, and back button, loop and zipper closing. A: back bow and knot. B: collar, and purchased petticoat. C: back drape. A and C: semi-fitted skirt, and back hemline slit.

Suggested Fabrics: Designed for lightweight woven fabrics. Broadcloth, Taffeta, Brocades.

5922 Views C and D

5922 View A

Butterick 5922 Misses’ Top

Fast and Easy

Difficulty: Easy

Sizes: 6-14, 14-22

OK, we lied.  We’re not all about dresses.  We couldn’t resist these tops, especially View C, the lace with the yoke peek-a-boo.  View A salutes the past with the Peter Pan collar.  View A has a peek-a-boo yoke and sleeves with a collar thrown in.  View B is a collarless, long-sleeved version of D.  You’ll definitely want to make at least one of these (guess which is first on my list!). 

Description: Close-fitting, pullover top has back neck slit, narrow hem and hook & eye closing. A and D: collar. C: purchased trim.B, C and D: underlay.

Suggested Fabrics: Designed for lightweight moderate stretch knits only. Jerseys, Lace, Illusion.

Shop the new Butterick patterns.

Have you sewn or are you going to sew a swimsuit this year? One-piece or two piece? What colors and fabric? Have you ever sewn a swimsuit? If not, what's your biggest obstacle?

Tell us about it in the comment section below!

Or, join the discussion on Facebook.

Here’s what other members said on Facebook:

“I was afraid to sew a suit, but after the first one, I got over my fear. They are really easier to make than you might think. I've made 3 one-piece and one 2-piece suits. And I have a new pattern for a one-piece on my cutting table right now.”

“I made a couple back when I was 12 and 13 out of non-knit fabric. They were both two piece, and one I made with a removable skirt that was attached to the top. That was the project I was cutting out on my living room floor on the day the astronauts blasted off for the moon! A memorable project for me, that's for sure.”

“I’ve never made a swimsuit, although I own a few patterns of swimsuits. I guess my biggest concern is sewing the fabric used for them. I'm scared that I won't sew it correctly, and that the seams will rip while it's being worn...”

“I have made a few one piece simple swim suits for my daughter out of Lycra. I wouldn't make one for myself because I don't want to have to do special linings, straps, and bra cups.”

“I'm making a flesh-toned suit out of a few layers of mesh. I'm attempting to feel naked while abiding by the law.”

“A Kwik Sew cutout, so both! I have also made both a one piece and a two piece previously. The first time I was shocked at how easy it was!”

Many “Highly Recommends”!

“I used a self lining on all of them and made soft cup as the.patterns were designed. One I could breastfeed in!”

“I make bikinis for body builders. I make all of my own custom pattterns. I live close to the Garment District for my fabrics. They are bedazzled and bejeweled. Definitely not for the water but look fantastic poolside!”

“Coincidentally I just bought a swimsuit pattern at JoAnn's today. I might try . . .”

“My goodness! I made a total of three 1-piece bathing suits in my lifetime... all in the mid 80's, each one was for me, although one of them did get entered in a fashion show put on by all the high schools in my district at a local mall.”

“This may be the year. I swim every morning. I am thinking tankini. I have the elastic, the fabric and the Evolution.”

“I have recently bought some KS swimsuit patterns on sale. I'd like to make one or two for me, but need to make one with an inbuilt underwired bra. That's what's stopping me. Once I get a pattern for my size (difficult for larger cup sizes) I'll have a go. I've made plenty of leotards, so am not daunted by the Lycra.”

“I have made about 35 swimsuits. KS and Jalie are my favorite ones and I combine patterns and pattern companies. I am currently sewing a Jalie top with a KS bottom.”

“No matter how skillful, I will still not look good in it!!!!”

“I have a Jalie pattern for men's trunks. I wanna make some for myself but with swimsuit (stretchy) fabric.”

“I've made lots of swimsuits but my biggest problem is finding good quality swimsuit fabric.”

“I have been thinking about it. Would be first time using Lycra. Concerned about fitting.”

“I've never thought of tackling either swimwear or lingerie. It doesn't really appeal to me.”

See swimsuit patterns.

See swimsuit reviews.

See tankini patterns.

See tankini reviews.

See reviews for Jalie 2678, men’s and boy's board shorts, a Highly Recommended pattern.

See reviews for Kwik Sew 2881, Men's shirt, shorts & trunks, a Highly Recommended pattern.

There’s a lot more information about swimsuits, including fabric and sewing tips, on the Message Board.  Check it out!

Join the Swimwear Sewalong!

I don’t know what it is about sunshine, but it makes me excited to pull out fun and flirty fabrics and start sewing…which brings me to one of my favorite trends for summer:  sheer fabric overlays, touted by some as the veiled effect.  Picture see-through fabrics covering a contrasting color, print, or collage of fabrics. 

Fashion designer Roberto Cavalli combined a floral sheer print with a solid color, creating an elegantly styled color blocking down the sides of dresses and pants.  Another idea is to add sheer to the shoulder area and hem of a sheath dress, adding a little sex appeal to an otherwise classic style.  I guess it depends where you plan on going !   Personally, my lifestyle is more casual, so I will pull out my hand-dyed circle skirts from last year and combine them with simple tanks. 

Another idea is to layer a silk chiffon tank (as shown below), add an asymmetrical hem, and tie at the neckline. 

This style would look great at any length and is a perfect match for a pencil skirt or skinny jean.   Much of the sheer apparel is shown loose-fitting, so forget your woes about fitting and just jump in and sew!  Hopefully these tips will help with your success...

Fabric Ideas:

• Silk Chiffon
• Organza
• Mousseline   (a fine, semi-opaque, crisp fabric resembling chiffon – made of rayon, silk, or wool)

Hem and Seam Finishes:

• Narrow rolled hems
• French seams
• French seams with the serger
• Raw edged hems
• Bias binding
• Adding ruffles

Tip: Sewing with Silk

Sewing with silk is really not as tricky as you might think; you just need to change a few things.   Use a size 60/8 or 70/10 needle and change your needle plate to the single hole;  this will prevent the fabric from getting shoved into the bobbin area.  Silk or cotton thread is the best.  Steam press your fabric to prevent shrinkage later on, or you might consider washing and drying your fabrics instead.  That is what I did with both of these outfits.  This makes the fabric so easy to take care of!  If you have cut your garment on the bias, allow the item to hang for 24 hours before hemming. 

If your sewing machine has an automatic threader, DO NOT use it with the #60/8 needle. 

DO NOT use wax chalk, as it can leave a residue on the fabric.

A Few Patterns to Consider

Jalie 2919 would be perfect out of layered chiffon or a sheer print.

Vogue 8915  As a top or dress, this look is right on trend!

Burda 7793  Another easy layering piece…

What are you sewing for summer, anything fun and flirty?  

See you next month for a rundown on the black and white contrast. 

Cheers!  Angela

Join me on Facebook, Twitter, and Pinterest, or sign up for sewing tips and class updates on my blog.

Angela Wolf is the designer and founder behind ABO Apparel, Angela Wolf Ready-to-Wear and ABO Sport. An A-list clientele has given Angela more than fifteen years of experience dressing and fitting many diverse women and has enabled her to understand the different styles that compliment each individual woman.

See Angela's patterns. 

See Angela's classes on PatternReview.

Join Angela on Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest, and her blog.

Missed Angela’s previous columns?  You can still read them!

Fabrication to the Extreme! 
Dressing Up the Little Black Dress
Colors for Spring/Summer 2013 
Leather and Fur…Not Just For Dress Up!
Prints on the Fall 2012 Runways
Oversizing the Runways 
Sheer Madness
Mixed Media 
The Classic Skirts 
The Top Fashion Trends for Fall/Winter 2012 
Pantone's Color of the Year... Tangerine Tango! 
Accessorize With the Scarf For Any Season 
Fabrics for the Holiday Season 
Faux Fur 
A Few Fall 2011 Fashion Trends 
The 70's 
White, it's Everywhere... How to Wear It 
How Will the Royal Wedding Affect Fashion? 
A Touch of Glamour 
The Love/Hate Relationship With the Popular Trends...Wide Leg Pant and the Skinny Jean! 
Fashion Tips & Trends with Angela Wolf