Although we often purchase accessories to complement a particular outfit, sometimes the reverse happens - we find the PERFECT accessory and purchase or make a garment/ensemble around it. In this 2-week challenge, participants had to sew an article of clothing or accessory to coordinate with a predetermined accessory.

Here is a picture of the accessory that contestants had to match:

The entry could be an article of clothing (pants, shorts, dress, top, jacket, etc.) or an accessory (for example: hat, gloves, bag, scarf, etc.)  And the entry had to be sewn. No knitting, crocheting, or other fiber arts were allowed.

Read the first post in the challenge discussion to see the rules and some possible inspirations for the contestants.

See the gallery of contestant entries and vote!

Voting ends on May 27^th, so vote soon!

The Great Gatsby in Fashion Giveaway

by DianeSev

Movies are our dream realities.  They help us imagine another time, another place.  Books do that too!  When the two media converge, wow! What a fantasy realm!

The release of The Great Gatsby, starring Leonardo DiCaprio and Carey Mulligan, brings us this  world of what might have been.  But let’s not forget where it came from (does high school English class jog your memory?)… F. Scott Fitzgerald’s great American novel, The Great Gatsby.

Carey Mulligan and Leonardo DiCaprio in The Great Gatsby. © Warner Bros. Pictures

The Great Gatsby chronicles the love affair between self-made millionaire Jay Gatsby and Daisy Buchanan during the excesses of the 1920s.  Author Fitzgerald himself was not only a chronicler of the 20s; he and his wife Zelda exemplified the philosophy “Live fast, die young.”

Zelda and F. Scott Fitzgerald

As we all know, a period drama requires period clothing.  1920s fashions are unique.  We can’t imagine experiencing “Gatsby” without them.  To really experience them, we need a guide like The Great Gatsby in Fashion. 

This e-book version of The Great Gatsby, annotated by PR member Debbie Sessions, is full of actual fashion illustrations and photographs from the 1920s. 

Want to know what a shirtwaist is?  You’ll see examples here.  Want to know what bobbed hair is?  Read on.  Want to see what jewelry women wore?  What sportswear they wore?  What was in style for men (the white flannel suit DiCaprio is wearing above?)?  This book shows them all with accompanying descriptive details. 

This book is a must for vintage fashion lovers and for anyone who wants a reading experience that they can immerse themselves in.

Author Debbie Sessions (known on PR as vintagedancer) is founder of Vintagedancer.com, an aggregator of new vintage style clothing, shoes and accessories for men and women from 1900’s-1960’s.  To teach fashion history within the context of the culture and society in which clothing was worn by real people is her passion. She enjoys bringing old fashions back to life.

Debbie lives in Reno, Nevada and is married to a wonderful vintage-loving husband, with daughter and two cats in a 1920’s house she calls home.

vintagedancer

To celebrate all things Gatsby and the launch of her book, Debbie is sponsoring a giveaway for PR members.  To win a copy of her e-book, The Great Gatsby in Fashion, answer these questions in the comment section below. 

“Have you seen or read The Great Gatsby?  Are you familiar with 1920s fashion?  What do you like about it?  If you had lived then, would you have been a flapper?  Who plays a better Gatsby, Leonardo DiCaprio or Robert Redford?” 

To qualify for this giveaway, you must have joined PatternReview by May 20, 2012 (a year ago), and you must have a profile picture (NOT the generic dancing PR person). 

Post your comments by 11:59 PM EST on Wednesday.  We will draw a random winner on Thursday.

See instructions for adding a profile picture.

Questions about adding a profile picture?  Post them here.

Visit Debbie Sessions’ website, Vintage Dancer.

Member in Focus (Sewing as a Business): SheBear0320

Full Name: Sheila Somers

Member Since: 2008

Sewing Business Logo: 

Website: http://www.chianto.ca/

Home Base: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada

What is your sewing business?

Chianto by Sheila – custom design and production of athletic performance apparel.

Is this a full-time business or part-time?  

Definitely full-time – and then some at certain times of the year.

What is the range of services you offer? 

Chianto by Sheila has evolved to be primarily focussed on the custom design and production of one-of-a-kind performance apparel for figure skaters, dancers (including ballroom), bodybuilders, competitive bikini and fitness athletes, gymnasts, swimmers, etc.   Chianto by Sheila also has a limited product line geared towards figure skating, fitness and technical wear.

How did you get started in your business?

When I started out in 1998, the business was known as “Chianto Crafts & Clothing” and provided a variety of services and products including formalwear, bridal, home décor, crafts, children’s clothing and pretty much any item requested.  The first several years were spent getting my name out and promoting my work quality.  Had a year-round booth at a Crafters’ Marketplace and attended many craft fairs in and around the city and sometimes further a field.  It was through these booths that I met a couple of local designers and did a variety of piecework for both of them.  One of these designers gave me my first referral into the world of competitive bodybuilding and fitness. 

It took several years to find and develop the performance apparel niche that I now work in exclusively.

Photo by Melissa Boychuk

What made you decide to pursue this particular business?

In junior high, I accompanied a friend to an acting audition for the school play and immediately fell in love with the costume and props department – first play I assisted with costumes was “South Pacific”.  Two loves came out of that chance encounter – a love of musicals, especially live theatre, and a passion for costuming regardless of its form.  About 3 years after that, I saw Toller Cranston on a television special which served to expand my vision of costuming opportunities.

From those early encounters, I knew I wanted to pursue costuming – it was just a question of how and when.

How long have you been running this business?  

Plans began in the fall of 1997 to start a sewing-based business, but the official start-up date of Chianto Crafts & Clothing is May 1, 1998 – just passed the 15th anniversary. The progression towards a performance apparel niche began in 2002 while I was volunteering at a figure skating competition.  Another volunteer with the “I hear you sew” introduction approached me.  Turns out she was looking for someone to make skating pants for her son as she couldn’t buy “off-the-rack” pants that were long enough.  I took on that project for a minimal cost as I had not sewn much with spandex fabrics. The rest, as they say, is history.  In June 2007, I added the Chianto by Sheila label, which is attached to the “new look” of the business, and the complete switchover to athletic performance and practice apparel took place.  In June 2007, the Chianto by Sheila website was also launched.

Photo by Images by PW

How did get your name out there when you first got started?

Computer-printed business cards were handed out at all craft fairs I attended.  In addition, kept business cards in the permanent booth at the Crafters’ Marketplace and also left them at the fabric stores around town.

As the business evolved, I targeted specific locations to leave my business cards – dance studios, gymnastics clubs, fitness clubs, etc.

What kind of advertising worked for you in building your business?

Once I started working in the performance apparel field, business cards were printed up at a print shop on heavier stock for durability and a more professional appearance.  Also developed a couple of colour flyers outlining the available services and colour photos of past work.  Attended competition vendor boutiques and bought advertising in competition programs (all very reasonably priced).  In addition, donated gift certificates or products along with promotional literature to silent auctions and raffles.

I have also provided on-site competition seamstress services at 3 national level figure skating competitions since 2009 and am scheduled to do another one this fall.  At one of these competitions, I was interviewed by the local newspaper and the story appeared both in print and on the internet.

I was also fortunate to have our local CTV station approach me to do a 45-second spot on my work for an “I Believe” series that was part of the 2010 Olympics lead-up.  The spot ran for 10 months at various times of the day and was fabulous publicity – 3 years later I still have people approach me to say they saw me on that spot.

What kind of a budget did you have when you first started and how did you make it work?

The start-up budget was very limited which worked since the sewing business started out on a table in the corner of a spare bedroom. To make that small budget work, supplies were purchased for projects as they were needed.  Income from the business was put right back into the business to help it grow (slowly) over time.

Photo by Images by PW

What kind of turnaround time is there in your business?

Turn-around time completely depends on the time of the year and the type of product.  Minimum turnaround times for on-hand product is 48 hours, custom orders is 4 weeks and special orders is 3 weeks – these timeframes are for slower/regular workloads.  During very busy times, it can run into the 8 to 10 week timeframe for custom orders.  I do all the design and production work myself.  I have repeat clients who give their deposits 6 to 8 months ahead of their competition date just to ensure they are on my “production schedule”.  These time frames are from initial consultation to final delivery.

How long does a typical project take and do you charge more for "rush" jobs?

This is a really hard question to answer – most of the work I do is one-of-a-kind so there really isn’t a “typical project”.  I will take on “rush jobs”, time permitting, but there may be a 25% rush order charge on any custom order requiring delivery in less than 4 weeks.

Do you participate in trade shows?

I participate in trade shows usually at annual conventions.  I also participate in vendor boutiques at competitions and workshops.  At this point in the business’s development, I attend far fewer trade shows and vendor boutiques throughout the year than I did at the beginning.  However, it is important to keep in personal contact with potential new clients as they become involved in a particular athletic pursuit.

How do you set your prices?

Prices are based on materials + labour + overhead.  Formulas have been worked out for me and I just slot the numbers into the formulas and come up with the total.  Different formulas are used for custom work, alterations work and product line work.

Do people ever try to haggle with you about your rates?

All the time!!!!! 

This is a photo of a suit I did for someone in Michigan -- a referral I received from a PR member.

How do you handle that?

For one thing, when it comes to custom projects, I emphasize to potential clients that they are paying for a one-of-a-kind product.  Their design will not be duplicated and in cases where the fabric print is very distinct, I won’t even use the same fabric in another project during that competition season.

I have developed the practice of asking clients during the consultation process, how much they would like to spend on their custom order.  I can then design to their budget and present options to them for staying within that budget to achieve the look they want.  I have several clients who prefer to have a more elaborate design for the project and then do the crystal embellishment themselves.  In this way they stay within their budget and are able to get the unique design they want.

When it comes to my limited product line, I politely indicate that if they want WalMart prices then they should shop at WalMart.  I am not, nor will I ever be, like WalMart.

Did you adjust your rates after you started?

When I started out I used a lower labour rate to introduce my skills and even that lower rate was an under-valuation of my skill set.  I have always charged for all materials costs.

Once established, I set my hourly rate at what I determined to be a realistic level. Since that time I have increased my hourly rate as I have developed and furthered my skill level.  At this point overhead expenses incurred in the operation of the business were pro-rated and an overhead percentage added to all production.  The overhead rate based on expenses is adjusted on an annual basis.   

Did you undervalue your services?

At the outset, I knowingly undervalued my labour rate because I thought it was the only way to get clients to “try me out”.  Now I price according to the work I do, the materials involved and an overhead percentage – believe it or not, I find I now get a lot more respect for the work I do and am as busy as I want to be year-round.

Are you incorporated?

No, the business is not incorporated – Chianto is a sole proprietorship with both federal and provincial business numbers.  The business names are also registered with the provincial Companies Office.  

Photo by Julia Unchura

What accounting things do you need to worry about in a sewing business?

You need to be aware of the small business laws in your jurisdiction – that includes laws at the municipal/county, provincial/state and federal level.  You also need to be aware of the taxation laws whether you are incorporated or not – when are you required to charge, collect and submit tax; how often do you have to submit; what benefits are there to registering to collect tax if it is optional.   Business licensing is also another important area to be aware of – what licenses and/or permits are required in your jurisdiction.  All of these may apply to home-based businesses as well.

More specifically related to the actual accounting, inventory control will become an issue – this includes materials inventory and product inventory (if you are making product line items to be produced and sold later).  Then of course if you are doing custom work that is another level of accounting processes.

If I had it all to do over again, I would definitely have taken a basic business accounting course either before I started or in the very early years to develop a better understanding of all the ins-and-outs of business accounting.  I’m lucky to have another family member who is capable of dealing with the finer points of business and taxation accounting.

Do you have your own accountant or do you keeps your own books?

I look after the day-to-day records and billings and a family member does the actual computer accounting including month-end, year-end and annual tax filing.  I tried using an outside accountant/admin assistant and it did not work out well.

What kinds of expenses do you need to keep track of?

Keep track of all purchases related to the business – including trade publications, all materials used to make your product/custom work, machine upkeep, office supplies, printing costs, etc.

I do not have a separate business vehicle but I do keep track of all my business mileage and at the end of the year, vehicle expenses (repairs, fuel, licensing and insurance) are tabulated and the percentage of business mileage determines the percentage of the expenses that are deemed “business expenses”.

With a home-based studio, it is necessary to keep track of household expenses (electrical, water, heat, etc.) and determine the percentage of those expenses that are business expenses based on the percentage of square footage.

Where do you do your work?

Chianto by Sheila is a home-based business.

Do you have a studio?

The Chianto studio is a 500 square foot area at the front of my home.  When you come in the front door it is the first thing you see.  The studio is located in what was the formal living and dining room of the house.

In addition, the main bathroom is available for client use and a spare bedroom serves as a fitting room.  Approximately 350 square feet of the basement is devoted to the storage of materials and inventory.

My studio is currently in a state of flux, as we are in the process of adding new baseboards and establishing a new set-up. The U-shaped sewing area will be completely changed with the "new and improved" set-up -- the new set-up will give me more open floor space which I really need.

Do customers visit you or do you go to their homes?

Most clients come to my studio for consultation and fittings.  When feasible, I will meet figure skating clients at the rink and will do an “on-ice fitting” (the main rink for the city is only about a 5 minute drive from my studio).

I do have many long-distance clients and those consultations and fittings are done through e-mails, videos and photos.

Do you have any employees?

I do not have any employees – I do have a contract cutter currently.  As a home-based business you have to weigh the pros and cons of contract work vs. employment (workers compensation, payroll deductions, etc.).

What are the challenges in hiring people in your business?

Finding people with the skill set required is a huge challenge – even being willing to train and develop someone has its own set of challenges as most do not want to start at an introductory pay level, they want to start at a top wage to learn.  When you factor in all the other issues you need to deal with when having employees, it is often more effective to look for contract workers.

These challenges also present themselves when looking for contract seamstresses to do piecework.  It’s been a hard road to find reliable workers.

Do you keep a lot of inventory or do you only buy as orders come in?

Over the years I have developed an inventory of basic supplies – for example black nylon spandex will always be used and it is cost-effective to order it in large amounts to save on the per metre cost.  When I order specialized fabrics for custom orders, I tend to order a few extra pieces just to have a variety of pieces in the studio for clients to look at.   Also keep swatch sets in the studio from a few different suppliers.

I now order the majority of my supplies (both fabric and notions) from wholesale suppliers so order in bulk to save on shipping costs.

Some of the "business stash" is in boxes and other is still on the shelves.  What I've provided photos of does not include all my elastics, notions and embellishments, nor does it include the large volume rolls of fabrics.

What are some of the overhead expenses that someone in your business has to worry about?

Electrical, heating/cooling, building/space rental, machine maintenance and upkeep, shipping/postage, cleaning, travel.

How do you handle customer unhappiness?

I work one-on-one with each of my clients to address concerns/issues before they happen.  One of the key things is to know when to walk away – I try to determine that before the project even begins to avoid frustration after I have put a lot of work into the project.  If the client is making unreasonable requests or expects “extras”...that needs to be addressed at the outset.  Being confident in your abilities and what you are able and willing to do is very, very important.

How do you get repeat business?

Repeat business comes from developing a good working relationship with your clients.  Repeat clients ensure an ongoing income for your business from year to year.  Repeat clients can also become good referrals for new clients through both direct referral and word of mouth advertising.

I am at the point now where I have been in the athletic performance field long enough that some of my first clients are now coaches or trainers and are referring their students/clients to me for their costuming needs.

I have to admit that I have very few clients that I have only done one costume for – a large majority of my clients current and past have been repeat clients.

Are you happy with your income from your business?

My business is completely self-sufficient at this time and does not require any owner investment but it has been a real process to get there.  The business also contributes financially to the household expenses (i.e., portions of electrical, water, heating/cooling, etc.).  I take regular draws from the business as my “paycheque”.

At this time those draws would not be sufficient to support my family of two people, but they do contribute to our “two-income” family.  A significant portion of the money the business makes is put back into the business so it can grow further but that is a decision that was consciously made.

Photo by Images by PW

Do you find that you are working more hours than you'd like?

I am aware that at certain times of the year, I will be putting in very long hours to meet deadlines for competitions.  I also know that I can choose to take on less work to reduce those hours.  I have the flexibility to pick and choose how many hours I want to devote to the business.  That’s one of the things I like the best – I get to determine how much and how long I want to work.

For the past four years I have shut the studio down for a minimum 3-week consecutive period every year to go on vacation.   As the business has grown, I find this “shut-down” period is essential for my personal well-being.  Up until four years ago, I hadn’t taken a vacation from the time I started the business.

How do you balance work and your personal life?

Having a home-based business is definitely a balancing act between your business and personal life as both function from the same location.  In my case, the studio is always visible – it is right inside the front door and given the open-concept nature of our home, there is no door to shut on the business at the end of each day.

I have minimum “work hours” which are spent in the studio doing strictly business related tasks.  At certain times of the year those hours will be extended to accommodate higher production.

I also set aside “personal hours” which are spent in the studio working on personal projects – I shoot for an average of half an hour a day.

When you have a home-based business it is always a challenge to find that delicate balance between business and personal.  One of the things I do is to set aside times/days that I will not schedule any appointments.  I also find that what works for me is to work extra hours on some days to allow me to take a whole day or consecutive days off a few times a month – for example I may work 6 – 10 hour days one week but then take 3 or 4 full days off the next. Scheduling the workload is very important.

What do you wish you had time to do in either your business or outside? 

Business-wise I would like to have more time to work on and develop the website – it’s always the thing that falls to the bottom of the “to-do” list.  Since the website work is all done within the “family”, it requires a unique balancing act to get any work done on it.  The website as it stands now is basically an internet presence – potential clients can find out about me there and then contact me for further information and to discuss possibilities.

Personally, I would love to travel more – travelling and seeing the world has been a life-long passion.  We particularly like to go on “active vacations” where hiking is an integral of the vacation plan.

Do you ever get to work on personal sewing projects?

I try to find time to do some personal sewing projects, mostly home décor and a variety of things for my 7 grandkids (ranging in age from 4 months to 13 years – 6 boys and 1 girl).  I try to sew clothes for myself, but I have to admit it is my least favourite sewing as it’s such a huge task to get a good fit on yourself.

The Personal Sewing Subject is my one and only grand-daughter who I love to sew for and she loves "pretties" that Granny makes.  The dress in the picture was for her first birthday last year -- the dress bodice is made from a flower girl dress her mom wore for a wedding about 20 years ago.  The skirt is made from strips of tulle.

What have you sewn lately?

Business-wise, it is currently the season of ballroom and bodybuilding with a little skating thrown in. 

Personally, I have embarked on a large quilting project – I hope to make quilts for each of my grandkids before Christmas (I piece the tops and bind them, but send them to a long-arm quilter for the quilting). 

Does having a sewing business mean that you get to have a bigger sewing stash?

I don’t know if it “MEANS” you get to have a bigger sewing stash or not … but I definitely do have a huge fabric stash. 

I keep my business and personal stash separate.  If there is something in my business stash that I want for personal use, I buy it from the business.  This is strictly necessary for business accounting purposes. 

Some of my velvet and spandex stash.

How big is yours?

Let’s just say that if I stopped buying fabric and notions today I could probably sew for the foreseeable future without having to worry about running out of supplies.  I may not have the perfect match of buttons or zippers – but I could make do.

How has PatternReview helped you with your business?

I found PR in early 2008 when I was doing a Google search for fabric and notions sources and researching an additional machine or two.  I joined pretty much right away and have been an active member on the message boards and writing reviews ever since. 

I would like to see the Sewing as a Business Forum grow and include more regular activity amongst the business members.  I feel that even though we may be in different countries and have different types of sewing businesses, we can all learn from each other.

I have attended 2 PR weekends (Montreal and Chicago) and they were both wonderful experiences.  It was great to meet other PR members who have sewing businesses and to discuss some of the issues associated with sewing for others.  These weekends also provided an opportunity to meet other sewists who face fitting challenges when sewing for themselves – it was great to know that I wasn’t “the only one”.

What advice would you give to PatternReview members who want to start their own sewing businesses?

•          Value the work that you do and charge accordingly;

•          Have a plan – either a full-blown business plan or at the bare minimum a plan of how you want your business to progress and how you’re going to get there;

•          Know the law for sewing businesses in your jurisdiction – it’s your responsibility;

•          Love what you do and be prepared to spend a lot of hours to develop your business and your reputation;

•          Be prepared to say “NO”;

•          Be honest about your real costs – including overhead.

Is there anything else you'd like to tell PatternReview members about running a sewing business?

My biggest advice to anyone considering sewing as a business is that you need to value your work as a unique skill/trade and be prepared that it will take time to develop your business and your reputation.  Finding a niche is key.

It took me awhile to find and nurture my niche, but it’s been worth the work in the long run.  It’s a huge time commitment, but I love what I do and it is both challenging and rewarding.

SheBear0320 is a member of the Sewing As a Business forum on PatternReview.  To join this forum:

•          You must already be running a sewing business (not just starting one)

•          You must be a Friends of PatternReview member or a merchant on PatternReview.

See SheBear0320’s reviews.

Do you currently have a sewing business or are you thinking of starting one?  Was this interview helpful?  Tell us!

Editorial Review of How to Start a Home-Based Fashion Designer Business

By Noelle MacMahon

Angela Wolf has just released her book How to Start a Home –Based Fashion Design Business.  This book gives an extremely thorough and detailed look at the process of building a business from the ground up from the perspective of a successful fashion designer.  There are thirteen chapters chock full of steps to take covering broad ideas like creating a collection, to the nitty gritty of writing a client contract.  She seems to have covered literally everything you would need to know and includes all sorts of useful links, references, and sources as supporting material.

My favorite elements of the book are her real life stories of the pitfalls and missteps she took while she grew her business. They are the perfect illustrations for why she recommends the steps she does as we proceed through the book.

You can tell Angela has a business background, as her attention to detail regarding the business plan, accounting, and promotional issues are impressive.  I learned so much and I have no interest in being a fashion designer!  I highly recommend this book to anyone who sews for a living as an invaluable resource for promoting your work.

Editorial Review of Angela Wolf’s How to Start a Home-Based Fashion Designer Business

By Diane Severin

I have no intention of starting a fashion-design business, but after I read this book, I said, “Yes, I can do it!”  And I feel like I can now, if I ever decide to quit my day job.

In 13 commonsense chapters, designer Angela Wolf outlines the roadmap to success:  So You Want to Be a Fashion Designer, From Dream to Reality, Getting Started in the Fashion Field, Setting Up the Space for Business, and so on.

In So You Want to Be a Fashion Designer, Angela outlines the required traits: a thick skin (“The  fashion industry is one of the most competitive and cutthroat there is…”), the desire to learn and evolve, an eye for color and detail, balance and proportion, communication skills, dedication, commitment, and creativity.  If you pass this litmus test in your mind, take stock of your personality traits and compare them to the traits of an entrepreneur that Angela lists and then do a self-assessment.  Angela also talks about the realities of starting at the bottom salary-wise and the support you’ll need from family and community to get your business going.

In other chapters, Angela asks you to consider what sort of business you’ll have.  Will it be weddings or other custom work?  How do you find clients and assess their expectations?  How do you balance work and family time?  Where will you see clients?  What about that thing that everyone in her own business struggles with… pricing?  These are all topics that Angela discusses.

How about the nuts and bolts of designing a collection…storyboarding, where to get fabric and trim, payment terms?  What’s a jobber, do you know? (I didn’t.)  Will you hire a pattern maker?  Will you make your own patterns?  Will you use CAD software?  After you draft your patterns, you need to grade them, that is, adjust them up and down in sizing.  Angela gives you resources to help you understand the process and determine what path you will take in making these business decisions.

Angela’s experience in the business side of fashion is helpful.  Some states require you to have a manufacturing license before you can make your own apparel.  Who knew?  (I didn’t.)  And she gives background on taking photos to sell your products.

What will you sew with and where will you sew?  Where will you fit?  Where will you cut?  You’ll need mirrors, good lighting, and a private dressing room.  How will people get in touch with you?  What other tools will you need to conduct business and keep in touch with your customers? 

And a business plan?  (What’s that?)  Where do you want to be in two years?  It pays to think ahead if you want to be a success and not lose your shirt!  You’ll also need to think about taxes, and banking and insurance and trademarking and copyrighting and labels and marketing and bookkeeping.  Angela writes about all these issues with clarity. 

And then there’s the yucky part…finances, credit (yours and your customers), contracts and so on.  It’s nice to have the voice of experience guiding you through all these things.

There’s also an interesting section on using social media to market your products…a must in this day and age.

Although this book is extremely helpful, Angela’s writing style is not dry.  Throughout the book, Angela includes guiding commentary from her own experiences that help illustrate her points.  Some are humorous (like the story of sewing for a business event she attended with her future husband), but all are valuable!

This book is a must-read primer for anyone undertaking a home-based business in fashion, but I recommend using it as a guide to starting any business! 

In short, I loved it!

Order Angela Wolf’s How to Start a Home-Based Fashion Designer Business.

Read more about Angela Wolf.

See Angela’s classes.

Read Angela’s articles on PatternReview.

Order Angela’s Patterns.

Giveaway!  Do you want to win a copy of How to Start a Home-Based Fashion Designer Business? Tell us below about your sewing business. Tell us the name of your business and give us your website address too.  If you don’t have a business yet, tell us about the business you’d like to start.  We’ll enter your name in a random drawing for a copy of the book.

To qualify for this giveaway, you must have joined PatternReview by May 16, 2012 (a year ago), and you must have a profile picture (NOT the generic dancing PR person). 

Post your comments by 11:59 PM EST on Saturday.  We will draw a random winner on Monday.

See instructions for adding a profile picture.

Questions about adding a profile picture?  Post them here.

Have you ever thought about starting your own sewing business? Or do you have one already? What services would you/do you offer? What advice would you give to newbies?

Please tell us in the comment field below!

Or, join the discussion on Facebook.

Here’s what other members said on Facebook:

“I have had a sewing business for 4 years. It was a hobby at first. I took some items that I enjoyed making in addition to some things I thought would be good products. I have developed my brand as a custom sewing studio and now people contact me about making special items. My advice - jump in! I have learned a lot over these four years by reading, learning and growing slowly. I also have a vibrant local business. There are always alterations to be done! (Although I don't enjoy that as much as creative endeavors!)”

“Thanks for the encouragement. I'm anxious to see what others have to say. It's something I've been seriously thinking about for a while.”

“I have a small sewing business in my own home, and agree with [the] last sentence [of the first post]! But that's the bulk of my business. But I too enjoy the new things. Always keep learning how to do it right. You can start with lower prices and you will obtain a loyal clientele.”

 “I want to start one too but don't know what to specialize in.”

“I dream of having my own clothing line, but I don't foresee doing all the sewing myself.”

“Someday I'd like to give private sewing lessons to children.”

“I'm in the process of starting mine up now! I will be doing custom window treatments and soft home furnishings. Cannot wait to finish setting up and get rolling! Thanks for the encouraging words!”

“I occasionally teach sewing classes or private lessons, but my real dream is to open up my own sewing studio where I can teach, have machines available to rent and help out when needed, and to sew for myself and make things to sell.”

“I’m in the process of starting a business as well. I make just about anything, but I love and want to specialize in making lingerie.”

“Jump in!!! (but with a good business plan [dream plan vs. realistic plan]). I started my alteration and custom sewing lessons 22 years ago with the birth of my son and a job loss. Some days I think I am crazy but it is going really well and mostly word of mouth. 10 years ago Christine and I started The Sewing Tree--we teach sewing and we are having a great time. Best hint would be don't bite off more than you are comfortable with and education and networking will be your best friends.”

“I've had an alterations business for almost 30 years, working from my home. I still love the flexibility. I also have a growing website and blog at LearningAlterations.com. I offer free tutorials with photos and I'm starting to sell videos at $5.00 each. I love all aspects of my businesses and I still learn things every day. My advice would be to start where you are. Grow in your knowledge and your business will grow with you. Don't wait until you have all your "ducks in a row" before you launch.”

“I've been dreaming about specialising in wedding dresses or made to measure evening dresses or even a little boutique for many years but never had the gumption to actually start. Still dreaming.”

 “I've been at it for 20 years now (which feels ridiculous to write, but I started as an infant. J Best advice: keep learning new things, and never debt-spend to develop your business. Being cash-up-front has allowed us to go through expansion and contraction cycles without stress, and with far more freedom!”

“I think the phrase "stay small, keep it all" defines it for me. Alterations bring in new business and challenges. Online pattern business is mostly driven by freebies that show my attention to detail. I take a little less work than I need to so that I can still be a mom.”

“I did it for 3 years, my #1 advice is get cash up front and have a contract for anything long-term.”

“I do word of mouth mending, like jacket zippers and lining needlepoint stockings for people who don't sew. I am getting ready to teach sewing (other than my grandsons) for the first time by auctioning off 4 lessons at the local art center's Valentine silent auction. Hope to get a 6-18 age student and fulfill a long time dream! And then teach others for $!”

“I've done sewing for others for years....have done it locally for the last few since I've been unable to find a "real" job!! but like [the first poster]...even though there are always alterations needed, I love doing creative things so much more...which is why I also opened a shop on etsy a couple years ago....I just need to apply myself more and stop thinking that I will find that "real" job...seems as though sewing is it!!!!  Best wishes to you.....”

“I have an Etsy store and make quilts to order. It was slow to grow but I have some repeat customers and I enjoy the work. I'd love to learn to drape and design so I could make petite plus-size clothes. Almost everything in my size seems to be made for a 6-foot-tall woman with 46DD breasts and that's not me in any way, shape or form. There is the need.....I want to learn to meet it at least to a point.”

“I'd love to hear the responses. I'd like to start one on the side for starters as I work a FT job. Gonna read the comments.”

“I've been doing alterations & custom orders (quilts, costumes, baby items) for years, mostly by word of mouth but I've been doing a lot of Facebook promoting on my Fanpage, have a blog & business cards.”

“I teach kids to sew in my home sewing studio. My business has grown so much, I left my day job to run my business full time. I used to do alterations, but I don't do this anymore, as I love teaching kids more and like to put all my energy into teaching and developing my program.”

“I work full time and teach sewing at Joann's as well as doing custom sewing for others. I used ‘The Business of Sewing’ by Barbara Wright Sykes and the forms package that can be purchased with the book to help develop a contract. I also use Paypal as a method of collecting payments.”

 “I have done it all - teaching kids, teaching adults, alterations, web site with my own line. I love it all. The biggest problem for me is time. It's hard to fit in extras while raising kids. But when you have a passion for something it shows, so all that I tried was mostly successful and word of mouth got me most of my business. I do agree with others - go cash only and no debt! That has definitely helped alleviate stress and problems and add to the success factor. For now I just do custom requests. Someday I'll go back to my web site or have items in local boutiques. I love reading what others have done and are doing!!!”

“I used to work in a bridal shop doing the little tiny details and bids and embroideries and by requests, the christening baby gowns by hand, but I no longer do any sewing. What I do now is daydream and admires others individuals work. I have one serger and four swing machines standing in one corner. Maybe is time to oil and clean them and put the sewing machine to some use. I like all the comments above, very good topic to discuss now.”

“I too am thinking about devoting more time to making money sewing. I have a few steady alterations customers and have had a few friends ask me to make gifts for which they paid me. I just love all aspects of sewing and would rather sew than do anything else. I have been researching Etsy, actually just browsing, to compare what I enjoy sewing with what is currently available. I also am doing a small amount of teaching which I also really enjoy. Great topic, Will continue to read the comments.”

“As a custom sewer for 15 years, and owner of www.findadressmaker.com, I would definitely say make sure potential clients can find you, and always keep in mind that people really need guidance before deciding to work with you. Can you do what they are asking in the allotted time, at the rate they are willing to pay? It can be tough to schedule yourself, and determine the proper fees to charge, but it can be done. Also, develop strong relationships with the businesses where you buy your supplies. If in New York City, my www.shopthegarmentdistrict.com blog can help you find those vendors.”

“I discovered Etsy very early and decided to make a few aprons to sell. After a while, I was making and selling 4-6 aprons every day. Then customers started asking me to turn my designs into patterns, which I now sell. A local store asked me to teach a few classes so I started a blog to support the Etsy patterns and my local classes. It just keeps expanding. I have no idea what it will look like in the future. I just keep taking the paths that come my way.”

 “I started a custom couture wedding dress business a few years ago and have been growing slowly and steadily by word of mouth. I also have a website and a blog where you can follow along to see each dress being created from idea to wedding day. I agree about the no-debt approach and the slow growth approach. I still keep a part-time ‘real job’ outside of the industry. It really helps to keep the stress down and gives the customer the attention she deserves when you don't feel like you have to overbook yourself. I'd love to get into teaching sometime soon. I've been trying to attend classes when I can, not only to learn the skills that are being taught but also to observe how people teach.”

“I have a sewing school in South Florida for almost 7 yrs. There's a big demand for people to learn the art. I love doing what I do. It allows me to be mom to my kids and bring in an income. I also help other people get started if they want to do the same thing as I've done. I've made all the mistakes and learn how to make it profitable. There have been many rewards passing on my knowledge to others, in more ways than one! Follow your dreams. The highest star you can see are the ones you can reach. Reach for the ones above all the others. You may not make it but you will FLY! https://www.learn2sewflorida.com/”

“Work hard but also allow yourself time to rest. It gives you the inspiration and drive to keep going when you need it!”

“I had sewn professionally for many years, mostly alterations for bridal shops, but stopped when I had children and then went back to work full-time. Now my children are older and more stable (in the case of my special needs children) and I'm ready to get back to professional sewing. My problem?! I don't know what to charge! I don't have a good sense of time, so I can't say it takes me x number of hours to complete a pattern, especially since I tend to do a lot of customizing.”

“I'm meeting a new client next week and she wants me to make a Marfy pattern (F2601). I don't know if she has any special fitting needs, but I'm very intimidated by what I've heard of Marfy patterns, so I know I'll want to make a muslin version first. Anyone have a rate sheet they'd be willing to share for custom sewing/designing?”

We’ve been drooling over the Pantone Colors ever since Angela Wolf wrote about them this winter.

So it was great to see how members were inspired by them to enter the Pantone Color Contest.

The goal for this contest was to sew a two-piece outfit for a woman or a man in the Spring/Summer Pantone Colors. There are many possible combinations- blouse/pants, tee/skirt, dress/cardigan to name but a few. The two pieces must be able to be worn together.  See more information about the Pantone colors in the rules.

62 members rose to the challenge and created this wonderfully colorful gallery of garments!

Let’s admire them, shall we?

And now let’s meet the winners…

First Prize (by Member Vote):  HawkeMorningStar7 for her jacket and dress Pictured: BurdaStyle Magazine: 11-2005-117 (Moto jacket)

HawkeMorningStar7 chose these colors for her dress: Monaco Blue 19-3964, Emerald 17-5641, Tender shoots 14-0446, Greyed Jade 14-6011 and Lemon Zest that she says “just sang out to go with the jacket.”  She created the classic moto jacket from BurdaStyle Magazine with no alterations, a situation that she says is typical for her because Burda patterns fit her so well.

One tricky step, she says, “…was making a binding strip for the left half of the zipper. Burda made no sense. I cut a long strip using the selvedge which was nicely finished so no bulk to turn under on one side. Other side was sewn into zipper. Front facings had already been sewn so I had to fold the lower part carefully back open as to not catch it all the way through.” 

Also, she said that the sleeve inner seam does not match the side seam.  She had wanted to skip the lining, but found she couldn’t do that because the front facing curves in a J shape. 

She loves this pattern and says it fits like a dream. It also makes her feel happy!

See more details and the color palette in her reviews.

Congratulations, HawkeMorningStar7!

Second Prize (by Member Vote): mlsg for her skirt and top

Congratulations, mlsg!

And congratulations to all our contestants!

We thank Elliott Berman Textiles for sponsoring this contest.

We thank PR member Sigrid. for managing this contest.

Congratulate the winners and chat with other members about the Pantone Colors Contest.

Look at all the Pantone Colors Contest entries.

Never entered a PatternReview contest before? It's easy!  Our contest tutorial will show you how to enter.

Check out the current contests.

Going on now:

Why not enter?

Plan ahead!  See all the contests for the year.

Today and tomorrow, all Simplicity patterns are on sale for only $2.99!

Buy Simplicity 1644 Misses' Dress and other Simplicity patterns for only $2.99!

Buy now and sew those summer fashions on your wish list!

• FREE domestic shipping for pattern orders of $25 for Friends of PR members.
• FREE domestic shipping for pattern orders of $50 for all members.
• Discounted shipping for pattern orders of $25 for International Friends of PR members (20% off!)

Sale ends on Wednesday, May 15, at 11:59 PM EST.

Summer's finally here and we are hosting a Sew-Along for the PatternReview exclusive Summer Street Dress!

With a fitted bodice and flared skirt, this pattern is so versatile and super quick to make. I'm making a July 4th version with a blue polka dot knit and a red belt. My next version will be in stretch mesh.

The Pattern

Don't have it yet? Buy-Print-Sew here PR Summer Street Dress Pattern

Badge for your Blog

Photos

Post Photos to our Summer Street Flickr Group http://www.flickr.com/groups/summerstreet/

Every week, we will update this blog and this topic with new photos from the group.

Don't forget to Write a Review!

How this Sew-Along will work

Simple, just post your progress here and post photos on the Flickr group. Would love to see the fabric or a combination of fabrics you are thinking about using. I will also be posting suggestions and tips and tricks regarding this on this topic.

Let the sewing begin!

Last week, we asked you to post a comment telling us these things: Have you ever made pants?  How'd they come out?  How was the fit? What pattern did you use? What fabric would you use to make the Eureka! Pants That Fit if you win?

We have randomly selected a winner… andrearn9.

Congratulations, andrearn9!

She posted: “The only pants I ever made that came out well used Cutting Line Designs One Seam Pants pattern. They fit wonderfully. I'd love to make a more structured fitted pant that fits well but I don't even know where to start with regard to altering a pattern to fit my body properly. It's something I'd love to learn. I'd love to make these pants in a fine cotton twill.”

Thanks to designers Rae Cumbie and Carrie Emerson of Fit for Art for donating this giveaway!

Didn’t win the Eureka! Pants That Fit pattern? Buy one now! 

See all the Fit for Art Patterns!

By newmama

[T]here's a difference between learning to gather with a ruffler foot and learning to use it to make a garment.

The first key to using a ruffler foot in a garment is that you want to gather and attach the ruffle in the flat. (I might have made that phrase up.  It basically means to attach the ruffle while the fabric is flat [vs. in a loop].  Derived from sewing in the round, a real phrase used to describe sewing sleeves. )  Instead of sewing strips of fabric to make a loop, which is gathered and then sewn on (say, to the bottom of a skirt), we'll sew the ruffles on to the front and back, then stitch the sides together.

Using a ruffler foot this way saves time but does take some forethought.

The other key is to leave wiggle room when you cut your ruffle strips.  If you cut them the exact length you need, then you have to ruffle them exactly.  If you cut them a few inches longer, you don't have to spend so much time trying to be precise.  You can gather the strips quickly with your ruffler foot, attach them, and trim off any excess.

1.  Do the math
To start, I measured the pattern pieces used for the tiers.  I came up with the following:

• bodice - 12 inches
• middle (contrast) tier - 24 inches
• bottom tier - 36 inches

A little math breakdown (24:12 = 2:1 and 36:24 = 3:2) shows where those magic numbers came from the other day.  Turns out they are pretty common ratios for ruffles.  If you get something awkward like 28:13 1/4, you can round it to 2:1.

2.  Attach the ruffles
You can choose to either ruffle the contrast strip and then sew it to the bodice, or you can ruffle AND join the two pieces at once.  I chose the latter.

The fabrics should be right sides together, with the fabric to be ruffled on top.  I like to line both fabrics up at the 5/8" guide and then slide them further into the ruffler until they are under the needle.  I have the top fabric folded back a bit so you can see that they are right sides together.

Put the presser foot down and turn the handwheel towards you to bring the needle into the fabric.  Start to sew, remembering you won't be doing a backstitch at the beginning or end of the seam. (You only want the fabric moving front-to-back through the ruffler).

To ruffle & attach at the same time, I like to hold the fabric on the bottom with my right hand resting on it, fingers flat.  Then I hold the fabric on top between the fingers and thumb on my left hand, lining it up with the guide as the fabric moves. 

Gather/sew the middle (striped) tier to the bodice.  You can see the extra "fudge factor" on the striped piece.

The bottom tier gets sewn to the dress the same way.

Now trim the extra off neatly.  I got fancy and broke out my rotary cutter and cutting mat for this.  Cut perpendicular to the seam, since your fabric was originally a rectangular strip.

Here's what it looks like after it's trimmed.

Finish the seams between the tiers in whatever method you prefer.  I serged them, but you can zigzag, overcast, bind them with bias tape, leave them be, whatever you want.

3.  Finish the dress

Sew the front to back at the side seams and finish them with your preferred method.

I constructed the rest of the dress by following the instructions for those parts:

Sleeves (I love the free arm on my machine--it makes it easier to sew baby and toddler sleeves)

Hem--instead of doing a narrow hem by folding under twice, I serged the edge and folded under once.

Neckline--I also serged/folded under for the neckline casing.

I added a size & "brand" label.

Whew! It's finally done!

A skirt would be made in a similar fashion, but leaving off the bodice/sleeves and finishing the waist per the pattern instructions. 

Read Using a Ruffler Foot: A Picture Tutorial by newmama.

Read more tips by newmama.

Read newmama’s pattern reviews.

Read newmama’s sewing machine reviews.

Read newmama’s store reviews.

Visit newmama’s blog daniKate Designs.

Want to know more about rufflers?  Take a look at these discussions.

Sometimes our closets are bulging with to-do patterns, sometimes our Tupperware bins are overflowing, sometimes our sewing tables are stacked so high that we can’t see the wallpaper behind.  And sometimes we need a contest just like this one to motivate us to sew as many of those patterns as we can!

This contest was your chance to use all those patterns you've been collecting but haven't had the opportunity to use yet.  And there are a lot of you out there!  111 members entered this contest!

Contestants could use only those items which have been sewn from patterns that are in their stashes AND that they haven't used before.  Only patterns in their stashes for approximately 6 months or more were eligible for this contest (that included patterns downloaded before September 16, 2012.)  No self-drafted patterns, though!  Vintage patterns sewn by someone other than themselves were admissible.  Magazine patterns were OK too, but no more than 4 newbies of distinct types from any one issue before September 2012.  There were other rules too: only one view per pattern envelope, tutorials without pattern pieces not allowed, craft items OK as long as contestants SEWED them.  Read more rules.

Take a look at the Gallery to see what they sewed!

Contestants accumulated points for their sewing.  The contestant with the highest number of points wins.  But something happened in this contest that doesn’t happen too often…we had a tie!

First Prize Tie (by Points): Quickie for 15 items. Pictured: Top, Diana Magazine:81,14E

Points: 15, Items: 15, Yardage: 27

Items Sewn: Dresses, skirts, tops, baby wrap, swimwear, tunic, and lingerie

Quickie describes the pictured top pattern as a "sleeveless blouse with double flounces along the neckline and the centre front and double flounces at the hem."

She found the instructions easy to follow but adapted them for her body shape and fabric.  The pattern did not carry her size, so she had to grade it. 

For fabric, she used a woven, sheer, densely-crushed synthetic voile.  Since ironing is a no-no with this fabric, she got unwanted wrinkles out by soaking it in water and drip-drying it. 

The directions called for zigzagging the armholes and neckline and turning and sewing it. She felt that that technique would not have worked for the crash material, so she used bias strips of the fabric that I stretched out. For the flounces, she made a row with the serger, turned the fabric to the wrong side, just next to the row of serger stitches and then sewed a tiny seam with the sewing machine. With all those seams and hems, she needed to work very carefully to avoid stretching the material and creating puckers.

She topstitched the seams to get them to lie flat.  She recommends this pattern to others and says, "Lovely pattern. Lot of romance with the flounces, but they are just fine and not overdone."

See all Quickie's entries in this contest.

Congratulations, Quickie!

First Prize Tie (by Points): wendlesue for 16 items. Pictured: McCall's 6444 Misses' Unlined Jackets and Vest

Points: 15, Items: 16, Yardage: 40

wendlesue made View B of McCall's 6444. She really likes Views A and B but doesn’t like the draping on Views C and D.  She had had the pattern for a while and thinks it was the pattern photo of view D that stopped her from making it up (she just doesn't think it is a very attractive garment). She’s very happy with the view she made. though.

For fabric, she used a fine gauge soft drapey striped sweater knit from Walmart – only $1/yard! 

She did veer from pattern instructions by stabilizing all of the hem edges with tricot fusible interfacing strips before sewing them. She also stabilized the neck and shoulders with plastic elastic to keep the very stretchy knit from sagging in those areas.

Would she sew it again?  Definitely!  She says, “This went together so quickly, and it is a really versatile cardigan.”

See all wendlesue’s entries in this contest.

Congratulations, wendlesue!

And congratulations to all our contestants!

We thank Patterns From the Past for sponsoring this contest.

We thank PR member Montarville for managing this contest.

Congratulate the winners and chat with other members about the Pattern Stash Contest.

Look at all the Pattern Stash Contest entries.

Never entered a PatternReview contest before? It's easy!  Our contest tutorial will show you how to enter.

Check out the current contests.

Going on now:

Why not enter?

Plan ahead!  See all the contests for the year.

By newmama

Some background:  Most of the clothes I sew these days are for my daughter, which means I sew a lot of ruffles and gathers, even though I'm not into really frilly stuff!  One of my favorite dresses is a 3-tiered peasant dress made from Simplicity 2377.  It's a quick sew, except for gathering the tiers.  I made some for my twin nieces and it took me an hour just to sew two tiers together (times 2 per dress times 2 dresses... yeah, it took a while).  Though I like the control one has when gathering "by hand", I thought a ruffler foot would be a good investment.

Simplicity 2377

When I bought my ruffler foot, I found it severely lacking in instructions.  And, while there are many resources on how to ruffle a strip of fabric (such as this one), there aren't many that tell how to use a ruffler foot to make a dress or a skirt, etc.  So I hope this two-part tutorial fills a niche.

This tutorial covers the set up and test strips for using the ruffler foot.  Hopefully you will find ways to apply this information to whatever you may want to add ruffles to :) 

Some general tips when using a ruffler foot:

• MAKE SURE YOU PUT YOUR PRESSER FOOT DOWN TO SEW!
  (this can save you an hour of aggravated troubleshooting)
• You do not want to back-stitch at the beginning or end, the fabric is only meant to go front-to-back through the ruffler.
• The ruffler will sound noisy and a bit like it's broken, even though it's working.  It takes some getting used to.  It will, however, make a different noise if the blade gets bent and hit by the needle (ouch!).
• Take a picture of your settings or write them down so that you can apply them to your project.  Be sure to note what kind of fabric you used, so you can reference your notes for future projects as well.

The following should help walk you through how to figure out a 2:1 and 3:2 gathering ratio for your ruffler.  I'll explain more about how these numbers can be used in the second part.  Try to just take a leap of sewing faith for now, okay?

1.  Gather materials
You'll need a ruffler foot (on right) and some 6-inch fabric strips to test your settings.

I used strips of fabric left over from cutting out my dress pieces.

2.  Set up your ruffler foot/sewing machine
Here's the ruffler foot attached to my machine (there are lots of resources for help with this part).  Set your ruffler to "1", so it will gather at every stitch.

Set your machine to a long straight stitch (this is the longest setting I have on my machine).

3.  Test your settings
Here's where you'll have to experiment.  You'll need to set your adjustment screw (mine is the orange knob shown in the photos below) to change the depth of the gathers.  More threads showing at the end of the screw means a deeper pleat, which means your ruffle will be more ruffle-y. You want to figure out what settings you need for a 2:1 gather and a 3:2 gather.

For a 2:1 gather, I have about 4.5 threads showing at the end of the adjustment screw.

Insert a test strip into the ruffler foot.  It should go under the ruffling blade, which is what pushes the fabric to create the pleat/gather.  There is no need to try to weave it through the windy metal bit at the back.

Turn the handwheel to bring your needle into the fabric, then start sewing.  Remember, you do not want to backstitch.  Once you sew your first test strip, measure the end result & adjust the screw if needed.  Our goal is a 3-inch ruffle.

If it's too long, set the screw deeper.
If it's too short, back the screw out some.

Keep testing strips until you get a ruffle that's about 3 inches long.  It doesn't have to be exact!  You just want it in the ballpark--ideally within a 1/4 inch or so, since the amount you are off will be multiplied with a longer piece of fabric.

Once you figure out where to position the screw to get your 2:1 gather, record it!  Take a picture, write it down, do whatever you need to to remember.  Then back the screw out to adjust for a 3:2 setting.

My setting for the 3:2 gathers is about 2.5 threads showing at the end of the adjustment screw.

Your ruffle should end up 4 inches long.  Remember to record this as your 3:2 setting.

Here are my resulting test strips.  The one on the left is the 2:1 gathers, and measures about 3 inches.  The one on the right is the 3:2 and measures about 4.25 inches.  Remember, the ruffler foot is supposed to save time, so you don't need to be overly exact.

Don't worry… This setup only takes this long the first time!  It is a good idea to do a quick test strip for each project, though, since different fabrics will gather differently.  But since you already have a baseline setting to start with, it should go quickly.

Read newmama's other tutorial: Using a Ruffler Foot – Construction: A Picture Tutorial

Read more tips by newmama.

Read newmama’s pattern reviews.

Read newmama’s sewing machine reviews.

Read newmama’s store reviews.

Visit newmama’s blog daniKate Designs.

Want to know more about rufflers?  Take a look at these discussions.

Nobody does dresses like Vogue.  There’s always something interesting about their dress collections, and the latest release of the Summer 2013 collection is no exception.

Noelle Mac chose these dresses as standouts, and Elliott Berman Textiles chose the fabrics you’ll want to make them in!

Vogue Patterns 1348 Misses'/Misses' Petite Dress

Designers: Tom and Linda Platte

Sizes: 6-14, 14-22

Difficulty: Average

Kick up your heels in this number!  The inverted pleats give this dress a special look.

Description: Underlined, lined dress (close-fitting through bust) has side and princess seam pleats, side pockets, ruffled petticoat attached to lining, and invisible back zipper. Petticoat ruffle is cut on crosswise grain.

Fabrics: Faille, Brocade, Shantung. Lining 1: Charmeuse, China Silk. Lining 2 (Underlining): Organza.

Elliott Berman suggests:

FJ-NEO-97 Jacquard textured with paisley design

S-16050 Silk Dupioni Printed

S-1503W Designer Silk Shantung Printed. Milly

Vogue Patterns 8894 Misses’ Dress

Difficulty: Very Easy

Sizes: XSM-MED, LRG-XXL.  Custom Fit for A,B,C,D cup sizes

Flowing, airy… You’ll glide through the summer days and nights in this stylish dress with the handkerchief hem.  Or sew the other version with the high and low hem for a completely different look!

Description: Dress has close-fitting bodice, raised waist, hemline variations (wrong side shows), and back zipper. Narrow hem A and sleeves B. B: fitted through hips, and stitched hem. A, B, C, D cup sizes.

Fabrics: Crepe, Jersey, Lightweight Linen.

Elliott Berman suggests:

RVK-1646W Printed Viscose Knit. France

RVK-15569 Viscose/lycra with large floral print.

S-1541W Signature Designer Silk Knit. Milly.

Vogue Patterns: 8901 Misses Dress

Difficulty: Easy

Sizes: 6-14, 14-22

This look is very hot right now…an underskirt with a filmy overskirt.  Sew the overskirt in a sparkly fabric or lace and you’ve got a great peek-a-boo combination!  Or just make the short skirt version for everyday wear.

Description: Dress has no side seams, close-fitting, lined bodice extending to side back, pleated skirt, side front seams, narrow hem, and invisible back zipper. B: lined skirt. C: bodice front cut on crosswise grain, back hook & eye closing, and zipper for skirt only.

Fabrics: A,C: Crepe de Chine, Crepes. B: Sheers. Contrast Also: Poplin, Cotton Blends.

Elliott Berman suggests:

S-1425W-B Silk Crepe Stretch. Italy

S-1426W Silk Crepe Stretch. Italy

Designer Silk CDC Printed. Hugo Boss. Italy

See the newest patterns from Vogue.

You can purchase any of the fabrics recommended in this blog post from Elliot Berman Textiles by clicking on the fabric, or by visiting the Elliot Berman Textiles website.

And visit Elliott Berman Textiles for more fabric ideas!

Eureka! Pants that Fit is a new pattern offered by Fit for Art Patterns.  Fit for Art Patterns feature classic designs and simple pattern pieces that are easy to assemble and very versatile, have alternate pieces for bust and hips to give every woman a great fit, and are well-suited to creating wearable art.  Their comprehensive illustrated instruction books accompany each tissue pattern and include essential fit guidelines and design ideas. 

This is what the designers Rae Cumbie and Carrie Emerson had to say about Eureka! Pants that Fit:

“Eureka! Pants that Fit were designed with you in mind because its creators know that every woman needs a personalized pant pattern to get a neat and comfortable fit.

“Frustrated by the pants patterns available to sewers, Fit for Art Patterns creators Rae Cumbie and Carrie Emerson worked with fit expert Sarah Veblen to design, test and refine this unique pants pattern.  Both Sarah and Rae have created pants for private clients, friends, family and themselves for more than 30 years using a variety of systems and patterns.  None really addressed the wide variety of crotch depths and torso configurations of modern women.

“In keeping with Fit for Art Patterns’ philosophy of providing size and fit options that enable home sewers to get a great fit quickly, this pattern includes three backs in each size for derrieres with different shapes and depths.  This feature allows women to come close to a good fit right off.  Then, a grid of horizontal balance lines, grainlines and dart guidelines offers a roadmap to help each sewer make adjustments until the pants fit well and hang in a balanced way.  Extensive directions guide each sewer to drape in darts where she needs them and to establish a waist placement and finish that is comfortable and flattering.”

Fit for Art’s pattern variations make it easy to change the look of the basic garment without your having to learn and fit a new pattern.  They strive to inspire all sewers to exercise their creativity, especially through their wide variety of sample garments.

Now for the giveaway!

Enter to win a copy of the Eureka! Pants that Fit pattern.

Tell us these things in the comments section below…

Have you ever made pants?  How'd they come out?  How was the fit? What pattern did you use? What fabric would you use to make the Eureka! Pants That Fit if you win?

To qualify for this giveaway, you must have joined PatternReview by May 9, 2012 (a year ago), and you must have a profile picture (NOT the generic dancing PR person). 

Post your comments by 11:59 PM EST on Saturday.  We will draw a random winner on Monday.

See instructions for adding a profile picture.

Questions about adding a profile picture?  Post them here.

See all the Fit for Art Patterns!

On April 26th, 85 PatternReview members came together to celebrate their love for sewing and their favorite sewing community - PatternReview at the Marines' Memorial Club in San Francisco, California for our 11th Annual PR Weekend. It is always difficult to write this post after the PR Weekend because as much as I want to, I'll never be able to express how much fun was had at this event.

Most of us arrived on Thursday to scope out some of the stores ahead of time  and mingle with friends.

Registration began on Thursday evening where our volunteers handed out these pretty PR weekend bags to everyone along with this expertly compiled booklet (thanks to our volunteers!) which contained bios of all the 85 registrants as well as details about the area and the stores we were going to visit.

Our venue was the beautiful Marines' Memorial Hotel - a place like no other. Not only is it beautifully decorated but it is also a living museum with photos, artifacts and stories about our brave marines. It is a tribute to those because of whom we enjoy the freedom today. If you are ever looking for a place to stay in San Francisco, I highly recommend this hotel. It is reasonably priced and the profit from the hotel goes back into restoring and renovating it.

We started bright and early on Friday with a Fit Seminar with Sandra Betzina who showed us how to alter patterns to fit us on the big screen. This was very helpful as she sliced and taped and altered the patterns right there in front of us. We also got to look at some of the newer patterns she has been working on and where to add ease for our body types.

Before we took a break for lunch, it was time for the Apron Contest Show and Tell. Look at these 5 lovely ladies sporting their aprons showing their Love for PR! Verosews took home the first prize!

And then it was time for the Pattern Swap. To prevent a stampede, marec made sure that the patterns were covered before it was time! "No Peeking!" I scored a great pattern! Vogue 8382. Which was coveted by many!

San Francisco is food heaven! There were so many great places to eat...from a hole-in-the-wall Mediterranean to family-run Italian restaurant right next door to the hotel. Some of us took a detour to Berkeley to check out even more food joints!

We gathered back in the Crystal Ballroom for the afternoon seminar with Sandra where it was time to learn some construction techniques and enjoy a trunk show of clothes from Sandra's closet. We even had a screen set up where we could try some of them on. What fun!

After the seminar we took some fun photos in front of the new PatternReview step and repeat.

Oh my! look at the time... we're late for dinner! And off we go to Buca De Bepo for a REALLY great group dinner. Even though it got a little noisy, we persevered. We handed out a lot of prizes sponsored by our friends at Elliot Berman Textiles, Patterns from the Past, Nature's Fabrics, Fitz Like a Glove Ironing Board, SA Curve, Angela Wolf and Jalie Patterns.

Saturday was self guided shopping day. A lot of local volunteers stepped in to drive some of us while Jo took a group to the downtown stores. I headed to Stone Mountain and Daughter first and check this out! We were in fabric heaven. After buying my fabric I headed to Haight Street for an adventure with Kathi Rank and it was a blast! On our way back we went in to check out Britex. Wow! this was creme-de-la-creme of fabric stores. That evening I invited everyone to my room for an informal show and tell. Even though a few could make it, it was still a lot of fun. I am putting fabric show and tell a required part of the next PR Weekend :)

After a relaxing breakfast at the Marines's some of us went for some more fabric shopping while others headed to Chinatown to explore San Francisco. As I end this writeup and as we approach Memorial Day I want to add that staying at the Marines's Memorial Club was an amazing experience. A subtle reminder of sacrifices some have made for the rest of us. A beautiful place with an even more amazing staff who obviously care. Thanks also to the coordinators Bonnie, Connie and Kathi who made this event possible with help from our volunteers and thanks to everyone who stepped in at the last minute to pitch in.

Mark your Calendars for May 2nd-4th next year for PR Weekend 2014 - Austin, Texas!

More photos over at our Flickr group.

The 2013 Spring Pantone Fashion color picks have been out for awhile, and the colors can be seen all over the runway.

This Pantone contest encourages members to sew an outfit using these colors.  How did they do?  You be the judge!

The goal: Sew a two-piece outfit for a woman or a man. There are many possible combinations- blouse/pants, tee/skirt, dress/cardigan to name but a few. The two pieces must be able to be worn together.

See more information about the Pantone colors in the rules.

Then vote here!

P.S. Voting closes on May 9^th.

Do you ever see old patterns from a bygone era at yard sales or thrift shops? What do you do when you see them? Walk on by or scoop them up?  If scoop, how many do you have? Please share with us in the comment field below!

Or, join the discussion on Facebook.

Here’s what other members said on Facebook:

Scoop them up if they are pre-1970, leave them there if newer than that - except children's clothing. I love old children's clothing patterns, of any era. Getting harder to find anything earlier than the '80s. I often buy up old Vogue designer patterns when I find them, too.

I am the one who has old Vintage patterns from 1980 to 2009. And I'm NOT selling them. I have over 500 patterns.

I usually only buy the ones that will fit my daughter or me. I seem drawn to the mod styles of the 60s...

I usually scoop up everything I can find. Yes, I am a sewing hoarder, but it all will get used eventually.

I usually scoop them up if I know the style would look good on me and is my size, or at least close to it (can make small adjustments if necessary). I tend to go for 50s and 60s dresses, especially the full skirts of 50s dresses and the mod 60s styles Oh and some 70s too because I love bell bottoms.

I definitely scoop up any that appeal to me. Have picked up anything from the 1930s through to modern day. Really depends in the style!

I make my living doing just that.

Grab them before someone else sees them! I love vintage patterns!
But I have to admit, my favorite vintage pattern was given to me, not purchased. It is my mom's wedding dress pattern from 1956.

It's sort of disturbing that patterns from my childhood are considered vintage... I grab any that I see that are pre-1980 because so many fit better and children's patterns that don't exist anymore.

Scoop them up most of the time!

I have about one and a half boxes full. I've found some marvelous ones on Ebay, and always keep an eye out for them at thrift shops, etc. They need to be close to my size for me to buy them, or else totally wonderful in some other way, like my Winnie the Pooh pattern....

I used to buy them all, but now I only buy ones that interest me. I must own over a 1000 but I haven't counted them. Bought an Ikea dresser to put them in, but they have spilled over into other boxes.

Scoop them up.

I scoop away if they are of styles that interest me. I have a large collection.

I have about 300 from between 1920-1990. I'm trying to stop this habit.

Recently picked up a gorgeous 1950s coat pattern and a dress pattern from the same vintage. Can't wait to play with them.

Scoop them up every time. I love the 50's style so I have about 15. Only a small collection but I'm getting there.

I scoop them up! And don't really know how many I own... Can tell you for sure my customers love their vintage inspired new dresses!!

I met a woman, a novice sewer, who had a 1970's Simplicity pattern for a "spat" that went over your shoes and looked like boots. I decided I am going to start hunting for old patterns.  There are some treasures out there. When my mom moved into a nursing home, we took 43 years of patterns to Goodwill.

I have that pattern [1970s spats pattern]. I haven't used it...but I have it!

For those who need to declutter, don't worry about kicking the habit, just send 'em my way or more realistically, pass them along to someone you know who will appreciate them.

Scoop up only those in my size, or close, uncut and in good condition. I have way too many patterns as it is

I went to the Textile Center "garage sale" and bought 130 patterns. I have about 70 listed on ebay. I sold some for 25 cents each to refugees who are new sewers. I only buy ones in good shape and most, uncut. I look for a nice timeless design. I love patterns!

Goodwill throws out or burns tons of stuff. I wouldn't donate sewing stuff there.

I buy them, especially if I made something from one of them years ago.

Cannot walk by...have almost too many...but I'm beginning to question keeping the 80's styles. Do we really think those shoulders will come back?

Scoop them up always!! And I have too many to count! Lol

I have a complete set of Betsey Johnson 1970's Butterick patterns. Naa naa!

I was at an auction and picked up a friend of the family's grandmother's collection. The dates run from 1942-1980s. I now am the proud owner of about 100 vintage patterns but not sure what to do with them now, lol.

I own about 300 patterns from Edwardian through to 80s *cough* but it is my hobby to collect them, they make me happy. My favourite era tends to change every few years, at moment its 1930s, but 50s, 60s and 70s have all had their turn. I am so envious of your Estate sales, I dream of picking up someones collection of vintage patterns!

I bring home anything from the 60's and older. I probably have 900 or so. Since I want to do costuming, I consider them research.

Scoop! I bought one today, as a matter of fact. I have maybe 12-15 vintage. I have more patterns of all kinds than I could ever make, but patterns are optimism in an envelope!

I walk on by.

Scoop them up. I have about 800?

I ALWAYS scoop them up- I must have 400, I am trying to inventory and list them for sale, but it goes slowly.

Some of my favorites have come from yard sales and Salvation Army. Unfortunately, the local Salvation Army no longer sells sewing patterns. They say that people had complained about missing parts. The way I figure it, when I buy a pattern from Salvation Army, I'm making a small donation to a good cause; if I get a usable pattern, then all the better.

At last count, I had 6321. I also have a weakness for vintage notions - I have more metal zippers and trim than I could use in a lifetime. I can almost guarantee that whenever I start a project, no matter what it calls for, I have it on hand

Have huge collection. Getting hard now because they are selling well on ebay

Only grab the good ones, or the ones I want to read. Good meaning old, 50's and earlier. Then again, there are a few 80's ones I'm looking for....

Read our other vintage-related blog posts:

Vintage Sewing

Interview with Michelle from Patterns of the Past on Vintage Patterns

Discuss vintage patterns.

Do you scoop up vintage patterns or walk on by?  Tell us!