PatternReview Blog > Archives May 2013|
|Editorial Reviews of ShapeShape||By DianeSev on 7/27/12 1:22 PM
ShapeShape by Natsuno Hiraiwa is a new book available from Interweave and the focus of these Editorial Reviews.
Editorial Review of ShapeShape
By Noelle MacMahon
The author, Natsuno Hiraiwa, has a distinctly Origami-esque perspective to the garments outlined in this book. Her brief introduction describes her design process as emerging from repeated sketching of shapes which she transfers to fabric. She then drapes the resulting forms until she discovers what the garment is to be. There is something really freeing about this philosophy; it comes from a place of creativity and discovery rather than pure fashion. She is also very focused on the resulting designs being versatile, so that every one is either reversible or has multiple wearing options.
There are nineteen projects included in the book with an emphasis on vest/stole/ shrug type pieces.
One pattern I’d love to make is the Free Style Curved Stole. This appears to be an incredibly simple, but elegant pattern which would be a perfect cover up for summer nights which get a little chilly. It also happens to be fairly on trend as it has the asymmetrical hem and drapey-ness we see a lot now.
Free Style Curved Stole
The author provides pattern pieces, instructions, and diagrams. Her requirement that the designs are versatile and/or reversible, combined with the nature of the pieces as “origami”, cause the instructions to feel a bit like putting together a puzzle. I am an intuitive sewist, so I felt bogged down by the detailed and confusing diagrams and instructions for some of the projects. But her designs are really interesting so I would still recommend this book as a resource for unstructured, playful garments.
Editorial Review of ShapeShape
By Diane Severin
ShapeShape is a little different from the books we've reviewed so far, and its patterns are a different from the typical Big Four patterns. It's a little like Vogue but with a dash of avant garde mixed with art student. These designs push the envelope of style beyond what many of us typically wear every day.
The title ShapeShape refers to the garments. And when you look at the pieces, the word "tailoring" does not come to mind. What does come to mind is the word "geometry."
Two Way Stole
That being said, there are some interesting concepts here, like the detachable pocket in the Detachable Pocket Button Down Shirt. And actually, the detachable pocket goes back to the roots of the pocket, which were worn on a woven tape around the waist not sewn into women's clothing. However, this form of the detachable pocket is not entirely practical unless you put the lightest things in it. Otherwise, the full pocket will pull the shirt down. And there goes the style!
But on the plus side, someone has to think of these ideas so that design can evolve and progress. And the designer has created some garments that, with a twist here or there, can be worn in different ways, a choice which is a boon to creating a diverse wardrobe.
Some designs, although striking, are a little mind-boggling, like the Folded Shrug. I'm not sure that I could figure out how to wear it (never mind sew it) before I've had my coffee.
But all that aside, there are designs here that I can see myself wearing, like the Free-Style Curved Stole, the Two Way Stole and the Reversible Circle Vest.
The Twist and Drape Blouse would be ideal in a gauzy or sheer material, but you wouldn't be able to sit back in it for fear of crushing the twist!
Twist And Drape Blouse
And finally, the Envelope Messenger Bag is another piece I can see myself making, but the style looks best when the bag is empty and hugging the body in a gentle curve, not full and bulging as it would probably end up (unless I carried something flat, like paper!).
The diagrams for the sewing process seem complete, which is a good thing, because the instructions are along the lines of "Attach front pocket to right side of Fabric A", attach zippered pockets to Fabric B"… brief and to the point.
The technique glossary is limited to techniques you'd actually use in making these garments: how to attach bias tape, how to make a flat-felled seam, how to make a buttonhole, etc., but is not really a primer for beginners.
The book includes patterns in a small envelope attached to the back cover.
You'll enjoy making these patterns more if you are someone who has sewing experience. If you are a novice, you may struggle with sewing these designs.
Order ShapeShape: Sewing Clothing Patterns to Wear Multiple Ways by Natsuno Hiraiwa from Amazon!
Do you want to win a copy of ShapeShape? Post a comment here on our blog! We’ll pick a winner on Friday, August 3rd.
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|Tip 372: How Many Centimeters in One Yard?||By DianeSev on 7/27/12 10:11 AM
I recently discovered that Google has a super-simple way of finding measurement equivalents.
Let's say you're reading a European pattern that says it's for someone with a hip measurement of 92 cm. "What the heck does that mean--it sound HUGE," you say to yourself.
Well, in the Google search bar, just type "92 cm to inches", and you'll learn that 92 centimeters=36.2204724 inches: just under 36 1/4". Definitely not huge. This work the other way too, of course--imperial to metric.
Submitted by Joan1954.
This tip is from 1,000 Clever Sewing Shortcuts & Tips.
Download a full chapter.
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|Member in Focus: lakaribane||By DianeSev on 7/23/12 3:25 PM
|Member in Focus: lakaribane
Member Since: 2007
Your PR Name: lakaribane
Your Full Name: Arielle Célestin
Your Birthday: December 12th
Your Blog: http://fashionmate.blogspot.com
How did you learn to sew?
I'm mostly self-taught. Though several generations of women sew in my family, my mother was (and still is) a sewing dilettante. As a teen, I sewed doll clothing for my Barbie and those of my BFF's kid sister. I also refashioned/recut several of my mother's UFOs (another hereditary trait, I'm afraid). Then, I stopped sewing through college and my early work years because I could shop RTW with my paycheck and foolishly thought that was fantastic. I got back to sewing when my brother got married in 2006 and I had to make my mother's MOH/MOG outfit. And it was like breathing again.
What aspect of sewing do you find most challenging?
I would say fit and finishes. I think I've pretty much identified my fitting problems (Narrow Shoulders, Petite, Low/full Butt, Forward Shoulder) and more or less developed an alteration sequence for my patterns.But I resent making them, so I alter with a grudge. At the other end of the sewing journey, finishes. I need to practice my hand sewing for delicate hems and I still sometimes wear garment with the seam allowances left unfinished (the armscyes in particular). And I need to reconcile myself with basting.
Which sewing book do you refer to most often?
I own both the Burda sewing book in French and the Threads sewing book. However, I find myself going online more and more. I read the reviews here on PR before starting a project (though I really should learn to read them BEFORE buying the pattern!) and participate actively on the boards. I also read a thousand blogs that I bookmark and blog roll. It's insanely addictive but [I love] the wide variety of tutorials, the wonderful inspiration to be found in the sewing blogosphere. I always say that the internet changed my life and that is especially true where my sewing is concerned.
What are your sewing goals for this year?
I want to upgrade my skill levels from Beginner, which I've had up since I joined, to Intermediate so I printed out the contest rules (can't recall which one) and I try to keep them in mind when I choose projects. But the biggest goal, and my greatest failure, is sewing regularly. In times of high stress, I tend to abandon the fun stuff, but I'm trying to remember that sewing makes me very happy. So sewing, sewing often, sewing for sanity.
What are you sewing right now?
I did a quick muslin of the bodice on Vogue 8280 and I'm hoping to find the time to make the dress for this big work event. As usual, it's the shoulders that are giving me trouble.
Pick your favorite pattern (only one please).
Amazingly, I'm a big fan of circle skirts, either full or 3/4 or half. I just keep making them. It must be because they are THE garment that reconciled me with geometry. At one time, this would have seemed IMPOSSIBLE.
Do you have a dress form? What's her name?
I don't have a dress form. I made an attempt at a duct tape dress form, pretty accurate except in the bust. I called her Adélaïde I. Sadly, she didn't survive January 2010. The next iteration will continue the dynasty and become Adélaïde II, of course!
What you love most about PatternReview?
I love the community. I have PR as a tab on my laptop at home, as well as my computer at work. I check in every day and I love participating on the boards. I have no one around me IRL who sews, much less someone my age. So it makes me feel good to have found hundreds of thousands of virtual kindred spirits here.
Any other hobbies?
I'm a criminally irregular blogger, I love going to the cinema (though, sadly, I have to wait until I travel abroad, all movie theaters have closed here in the several years), I love reading and politics and, obviously, I surf the net A LOT, lol!
Your profession, where do you live, etc.
I'm a museum technician by training, but I'm also in the throes of a Promethean Delusion, i.e., I teach English as a Foreign Language and French Litterature at my old high school. Teenaged girls are an acquired taste some days. I live in the Metropolitan area of Port-au-Prince, in the suburban town where I grew up. I work downtown, a couple of blocks from the port. It can smell wonderful...or not. But the view from the roof of my building is really beautiful (just don't look down). I own two dogs, a Dobberman/Rottweiler mix named Ben and an embarrassingly fat black Labrador named Malika. She helps me sew by snoring under the sewing table. Does wonders for my motivation.
What would PR members be surprised to know about you?
I love beets. And leeks. And broccoli. Can't stand papaya. Think it's really unfair that ice cream, chocolate, popcorn, caramel and Jolly Rancher hard candy are bad for you (and your teeth). Just got a machete as a gift and called it Ti George (long story but if you want to hear it, I can tell you. Haitians love to tell stories. Appropriately, we call it "bay lodyans", i.e., giving audiences. Like royalty. *wink*)
Is there anything else that you'd like to tell us about yourself?
I blame my sewing stash completely on my ancestors. Haitians love familial explanations to behavior ,so here's mine. My grandfather was head of the Philatelic Agency at one time and was a life-long stamp collector. My maternal great-grandmother, grandmother, aunt, and cousin are all great seamstresses, as well an aunt and a (fourth?) cousin on my father's side. Do you see why I need all this fabric and patterns and notions and scissors? Blood will tell.
Actually, I aspire to having my own mythology like Cousin Mama (Emma Defly). She was a lingerie seamstress, and it's said that she could just cup your breast in her hand and cut out the right size bra cup. Everyone speaks of her with awe in their voice though she's been dead over 30 years now. I have no way of knowing if this story is real, but it's one of two tales they always tell about her. That and the time flood waters almost carried her out to sea during a particularly bad hurricane season. And they whisper behind their hand about how incredible that is, considering her girth.
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|"One Pattern, Many Looks" Winners||By DianeSev on 7/17/12 4:17 PM
Have you ever loved sewing and wearing a pattern so much that you've made it in every different color under the sun? And isn't it great when no one realizes that it's the SAME pattern, but with different fabric.
Enter the "One Pattern, Many Looks" Contest. This contest was an opportunity to flex your creative sewing muscles (one, two, one, two) and make the same pattern (and the same view!) look completely different!
The 67 contestants in this contest had to enter at least two garments made from the same view from the same pattern. Contestants could submit multiple entries but only one view per pattern.
The changes for each garment could only be cosmetic, that is, changing the fabric, neckline, length, or adding piping and trim. See the rules for more clarification. This is the third year this contest has been held, so there was plenty of guidance for this year's contestants!
I wouldn't want to be the one to judge this contest. There were so many great entries! How did the voters pick just five?
Congratulations to all the contestants for all their great entries and on multiplying their wardrobes by at least a factor of 2!
Now let's meet the winners.
Pictured at left: Sherril Miller's Ottobre Woman Magazine: 02-2007-05 Rose Top, one of five tops she entered
Sherril Miller sewed the Ottobre Woman Magazine: 02-2007-05 Rose Top five times for this contest. (See her review for pictures of the other four tops.)
She made some minor changes to each garment. She added a flounce for the pink top, along with a binding at the sleeve. For the argyle top, she added a fabric strip to the front and a contrast neckline along with added buttons for a cardigan look. And she recycled a thrift store t-shirt to create the brown contrast and cut the sleeves at the hem for a sleeve finish. On the floral top. she put elastic on the sleeve hem and didn't use any contrast for the neck band. For the dotted top (pictured above), she omitted the sleeve bands and used a narrow hem. She didn't make any changes to the pink and green print top.
She says that this pattern has a great range of sizes and that the larger sizes have full-bust length already factored in. She loves the shape of the open neckline, which she find very flattering.
She calls this "a great wardrobe building pattern." She adds, "The sleeves are cute, and the neck band lends itself to decoration or an interesting contrasting fabric. I added two different sized buttons on my dotted top neckband. I'm definitely sewing it again and recommend that you find the pattern and sew a few up for yourself."
Congratulations, Sherril Miller!
Second Prize (By Member Vote): pdiddly for Kwik Sew: 3883 Men's Shirts
Pictured at left: pdiddly's Kwik Sew: 3883 Men's Shirts
We thank Vogue Fabrics for sponsoring this contest.
We thank PR member shajarataddurr for managing this contest.
Chat with other members about this contest.
Look at all the contest entries.
Never entered a contest before? It's easy! Our contest tutorial will show you how to enter.
Check out the current contests.
Going on now: Why not enter?
Plan ahead! Check out the 2012 contests.
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|Sheer Madness by Angela Wolf||By Angela Wolf on 7/13/12 10:34 AM
As the trends are moving back into feminine styles, you can't miss the sheer fabrics…beautiful prints and colors that can be worn all year. The blouse styles are casual and loose fitting, a perfect match with the skinny or crop pant. Unlike the traditional blouse styles, chiffon is being combined with unusual fabrics and textures creating new and exciting fashion statements. Layers of contrasting designs, touches of leather, hand beading, ruching, hand-dyed fabrics with original designs, sheer panels… you can really have fun with this trend.
Photos from Style.com ... from left to right: 3.1 Phillip Lim, Alexander McQueen, Reed Krakoff
If you have browsed the retail stores lately, you might have noticed there are not too many neutral colors to choose from. In fact, there are very few plain colors. Prints are everywhere. Which kind of makes me laugh because one of the main suggestions to fashion designers is to take it easy with prints. If the print is not well received by a customer, a designer can lose a lot of money. This must be the year for designers to go big or bust! I personally enjoy some of the prints and unusual color schemes, but I do not foresee filling up my sewing stash or closet with too many of these crazy prints. But as I’m looking ahead to fall, I see that dark burgundy or wine is going to be a very popular color. A print with touches of burgundy would be a perfect complement to dark grey wool pants or a black pencil skirt.
Photos from Style.com, compliments of Thakoon
There are many sheer fabrics to choose from, it really will depend on your overall design. Some of my person favorites are silk chiffon, silk organza, stretch netting (similar to the lining in a bathing suit), tulle, and, not to leave out a piece that has been in my stash for years, velvet burnout. I have been waiting for the perfect design, and now that this trend is so hot, I might have to work on a top for New Year's Eve.
Sewing Tips for Sheer Fabrics
Machine Needle: Start with a new machine needle in order to prevent fabric runs while you’re sewing. I usually use a Schmetz size 10 for most of these sheer fabrics, unless the fabric has stretch. Then I use a "stretch" or "ballpoint" needle.
Cutting: Rotary cut with new blades
Pins: Glass head pins
Marking: Clay chalk or silk thread basting (wax chalk can leave a permanent mark on silk)
Seam Finishes: Narrow serged seam or 1/4" wide French seam
Hems: Rolled hem, narrow rolled hem with the serger, bias bound
Embellishing Sheer Fabrics
When it comes to sewing, there are so many ideas on embellishing sheer fabrics. Adding embroidery, ribbon accent, cutout designs, tulling ... take a look at the 2012 Collection for Marchesa for some inspiration.
Photo from Marchesa 2012 Collection
On Trend Patterns
Here are a few patterns right on trend that you might want to consider sewing up.
Join me on Facebook, Twitter, or follow my blog for more sewing tips. :)
Angela Wolf is the designer and founder behind ABO Apparel, Angela Wolf Ready-to-Wear and ABO Sport. An A-list clientele has given Angela more than fifteen years of experience dressing and fitting many diverse women and has enabled her to understand the different styles that compliment each individual woman.
Join Angela on Facebook, Twitter and her blog.
Missed Angela's previous columns? You can still read them!
The Classic Skirts
The Top Fashion Trends for Fall/Winter 2012
Pantone's Color of the Year... Tangerine Tango!
Accessorize With the Scarf For Any Season
Fabrics for the Holiday Season
A Few Fall 2011 Fashion Trends
White, it's Everywhere... How to Wear It
How Will the Royal Wedding Affect Fashion?
A Touch of Glamour
The Love/Hate Relationship With the Popular Trends...Wide Leg Pant and the Skinny Jean!
Fashion Tips & Trends with Angela Wolf
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|Interview with Elizabeth Cline, Author of “Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion”||By Noelle Mac on 7/10/12 3:59 PM
Welcome to author, sewist, and blogger, Elizabeth Cline! We are pleased to feature this interview she gave us last week while she was on tour promoting her new book,“Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion”.
Given what you’ve learned in your research, what do you envision as the ideal wardrobe?
The ideal wardrobe is a well thought-out one. Most of us buy clothing on impulse now, and end up with closets full of clothes that aren’t quite right for us and that we don’t get a lot of use out of as a result. Instead, consumers should start the year out with a clothing budget, and save up for clothes that you will love and wear for seasons to come.
How has this book changed your wardrobe?
Completely. I never looked at fabrication labels before and now fabric is an incredible passion of mine. I love silk and linen and the newer viscose fibers like Modal and Tencel, and that makes cheap clothes a lot less attractive to me because they’re mostly made of polyester and acrylic. I browse more, and buy less. I have a lot of my clothing tailored. I also love D.I.Y. fashion projects, like dyeing and refashioning garments.
How do you think an environmentally conscious home sewer should change the way she shops for fabric and sews?
Only if s/he wants to. Home sewers are already doing their part, because they’re producing clothes on such a small scale and making custom pieces, which makes for a longer-lasting attachment. I’m no expert on eco-fabric resources for home sewers, but I always try to buy only as much fabric as I need and to recycle scraps, even if it just means reusing them in new projects.
Do you think that purchasing and sewing natural, slow-grown fabrics of wool, cotton and linen rather than artificial fibers like polyester would reverse the trend of throw-away clothes?
I certainly think it’s one of many antidotes. Right now, people are buying clothes based on trend and price, and their closets are stuffed with synthetic-based clothes they barely wear and don’t truly love. Knowing about fabrics is all part of the process of slowing down, thinking before you buy, and understanding clothes. Polyester is made from oil; it’s hard to form an attachment to such a fabric when you picture how it’s made. Wool, cotton, linen and silk come from our natural environment, and I think it’s a wonderful truth that we have not been able to outdo nature in terms of hand feel and comfort. Environmentally friendly viscose, like Modal and Tencel, is sourced from natural byproducts, and those feel amazing as well.
Should home sewers try to purchase U.S.-made fabrics rather fabrics made overseas?
If we do, do we have many options? My opinion on home sewing is that it’s already so much more sustainable that the buying off-the-rack clothes from a huge chain store. Home sewers are part of the solution, not the problem. I know that resources for home sewers have dwindled over the years. Parts of the country don’t even have fabric shops. I think the more immediate goal should be to grow the number of home sewers before we tackle issue of where their fabric is being sourced.
What was the biggest surprise for you in researching this book?
Walking into a Salvation Army and seeing 18 tons of clothes wrapped up and stacked into a towering wall. That wall represented just three days of cast-off clothing from one single charity thrift shop in one city in the United States.
Do you sew and if so, what kind of garments do you tend to make?
I do. I’m a beginner, so I tend to make simple garments like tank tops and boat-neck tops with cap sleeves. I’m really more of a refashioner at this point, taking jeans and turning them into jean skirts, taking sleeves and shoulder pads off ‘80s blouses, and taking in the side seams on baggy t-shirts.
Do you use patterns?
I’m getting there. I’ve got the pattern and bought the fabric, but I’m intimidated by it all. I’m probably going to take a patternmaking class instead of jumping in.
What is your personal style in terms of fashion?
My style is influenced by rock and punk music subcultures, so I love dark colors and unfussy, edgy, and androgynous pieces. I’m also a huge fan of ‘80s power dressing—I love pronounced shoulders, boxy cuts, and hot pink.
In your research, did you make any discoveries about home sewing?
That it makes you a better consumer and makes you more attuned to your personal style. I tell people to buy a sewing machine and to learn how to sew if for no other reason than it’ll keep you from getting ripped off in stores and it’ll help you to know what you’re looking at and looking for.
Your profession, where do you live, etc.
I’m a journalist and editor based in Brooklyn, New York.
What would PR members be surprised to know about you?
I won’t say how much, but I think it’s acceptable to drop a lot of money on a really beautiful, well-crafted item of clothing. I don’t advocate buying designer just to brag about the label, but there should be no shame in investing in a gorgeous garment.
Thank you so much, Elizabeth for taking the time to share your views with the PatternReview community!
To read more about Ms. Cline, you may visit her blog.
Order this book from Amazon.
Any book which talks about sewing and/or fashion is of interest to me so I was really excited when we got this book in for a review. Of course this book is not about fashion. In a nutshell, it is about us as consumers of fashion and what its impact is on the society and the environment. Sounds boring? Far from it. It was a very interesting read especially since Cline talks about the history of the clothing industry and what it used to be back in the day when clothes weren't as cheap or cheaply made. It opens with a flashback into the time when clothes were lovingly owned and were mended (an activity we don't indulge in anymore, raising hands here!). Did you know that clothing is one of the few industries where prices have actually come down in the last 15 years? Inflation has not touched it - why? Because the quality of clothes has gone down- way down!
As a sewer, I felt just a little proud as I was reading this book because 90% of my wardrobe is made by me. I feel we are already doing our part by creating our own fashion in ways that we can express ourselves. Not only that, because we are the creators, we can take the time to do it right. And that's what my takeaway from this book is. To invest time into quality fabrics, and quality garments. Stopping to focus on construction and not just "whip" up easy things which I am so used to doing. A great read! I highly recommend it.
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|New McCall's Patterns||By Noelle Mac on 7/5/12 2:11 PM
Well, we are all sweltering in a heat wave here on the East coast, so it is hard to imagine, but it is time to look forward to our fall wardrobes! We just received the Fall 2012 McCall's patterns and I have selected a few patterns to preview for you.
The first one which stood out for me is 6607
This is a very loose cowl neck sleeveless tunic designed for layering over a fitted garment. It has options for shaped or straight hems with side slit, and can be worn belted if desired. This tunic could be made in any moderate stretch knit fabric and I think would be a fun way to add a layer to an outfit without too much bulk.
I can picture it for fall with a fitted long sleeve tee shirt, jeans, boots and some funky beaded necklace. I would make the shaped hem version in this really cool metallic berry knit from The Cloth Merchants
The second pattern I liked was the 6608.
This skirt pattern is designed for medium weight wovens and moderate stretch knits and has enough variations to give you lots of options in one. The mini skirt version has optional welt pockets; the maxi skirt can be made with godets and an elastic waist, or straight with a zipper closure in back. I would love to make the straight maxi in this tribal fabric from Elliot Berman
6612 is the third in our featured series- a dress with many variations for knits.
There are short, long and no sleeve versions, as well as options for a cowl, scoop, or draped neckline. Version A features a short length with a modern-feeling gathered side hem.
I would make version B with long sleeves and just above knee length in this elegant brown scroll design knit from Fashion Fabrics Club
Speaking of Maxi Dresses, we recently did a feature on Maxi Dresses in our fun Tracings newsletter. You can read it here. To subscribe to free newsletter - Tracings about about patterns, tips and techniques, go here.
See all new McCall's patterns here
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|Vote in the One Pattern Many Looks Contest||By Deepika on 7/3/12 1:10 PM
One Pattern, Many Looks contest has ended and as always, its time for you to pick the winners.
The goal of this contest was to take one view of a pattern, and create multiple garments with distinct looks from that view, without needing pattern drafting skills. The participants were required to make atleast one more different look from the same pattern. Check this out. So many cool variations from the same pattern.
Here's how you can vote.
Click on the collage above to go to the contest gallery. See all the entries, read reviews, see the photos and you can click on the vote entry button for upto 5 entries.
Voting ends on July 15th so be sure to vote soon.
Sponsored by Vogue Fabrics
Both the winners will get a complimentary Swatch service to Vogue Fabrics!
Click here to vote now.
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