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|Reviewed by:||froggiegirl|| |
|Posted on:||8/18/14 10:27 AM |
McCall's Pattern Info
|Pattern Rating:||Highly Recommend |
|Review Rating:|| Very Helpful by 3 people |
|See other patterns in this category: Dresses Lingerie |
|Available for sale on PR: $18.95 (See envelope) Click to Buy |
|Fabric:||Cotton- Lawn [See other projects in this fabric]|
|Pattern Description: |
Dresses have collar, collar band, self-lined yoke back, close-fitting bodice, and band. A: carriers, purchased belt. A,B: pleated skirt, side pockets. A,C: purchased bias tape finishes armholes. D: sleeve bands. C,D: semi-fitted through hips, side front pockets, stitched hems. Bias, close-fitting slip has shoulder straps and very narrow hem. A/B, C, D cup sizes.
8-24 I sewed a combo 14/16. The size nest splits between these two sizes so I did a bit of on the fly grading. More details on that in the fitting area.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, the pattern was accurately represented on the pattern envelope. (I do have some issues with their fabric choices for some of the samples.)
Were the instructions easy to follow?
I barely looked at the instructions. I did read the hem portion to see how deep to make the hem. The instruction there to turn up but trim down the hem made little sense to me in a non sheer garment. I turned up the hem at 1 1/4" instead.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love all the design details on this pattern, the inset belt with loops, the gathered back, both skirt options.
I did not enjoy sewing it because there was TONS of hand stitching on view A. Hand stitching and I are not on the best of terms.
Liberty Tana Lawn in the discontinued Carline print.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
1. I excitedly bought the larger size nest without looking at the measurements on the envelope. Turns out that the 36" bust size 14 is in the smaller size nest. Doh! Since I needed the size 16 for my lower body I decided to do a little fast and loose grading on the top half of the pattern rather than exchange the pattern. I used the method of grading using the existing sizes explained in this post. But instead of grading up, I did the opposite and graded down.
2. This was my first time using a McCall's pattern that had the different cup size options. Since I wear a DD US/E European bra size I traced the D cup bodice. When I mocked up the dress I found a fitting problem that I'd never encountered before. The neck/shoulders, which had been graded down, fit perfectly. The hip area also fit perfectly. But in the bust/waist area I literally had inches of extra ease. I'm going to guess that the different cup sizes have FBA adjustments already made to them. Since I rarely need one of those, using the D sized bodice might not be the best fitting option for me. To fix the ease problem I took 3/4" out of the side seam of the entire bodice and waistband. The top of the skirt was nipped in 3/4" to match the waistband and then graded out to zero at the hip.
3. The bodice was shortened 1/2" and the waist dart shortened 1".
4. Standard dropping of the side seam dart an 1".
5. Standard 1/2" forward shoulder adjustment made.
In retrospect, it would have been a lot less work to start with the size 14 and just grade out the hip a bit. Oh well, I couldn't have foreseen this unless someone explicitly mentioned it in a PR review. (I didn't bother to check before plunging into the project.)
Additional fitting note - I found the ease in the back to be perfect, but I have a wide upper back. Was pleased that I did not have to do my standard stashing to increase the width.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I would sew it again, though I'm thinking about doing the straight skirt version and top-stitching instead of hand stitching. Would highly recommend though as the finished garment is lovely.
While the process on this one was a slog, I'm very pleased with the final product. The semi-retro styling of view A meshes well with my wardrobe. It's also very comfortable to wear and practical for things like wrestling clothing on a toddler. If you'd like to read a bit more about this project I've blogged it here.
| Available for sale on PR: $18.95 (See envelope)Click to Buy|
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