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HotPatterns: 1091 (WSJ Marrakesh Pants) - Type:Pants    printable version
Viewed 831 times 2 more reviews
Review rated Very Helpful by 39 people   
Reviewed by:Debbie Cook
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Friend of PR
About Debbie Cookstarstarstarstar
FL USA
Member since: 4/11/02
Reviews written: 163
Favored by: 317 people
patterns reviewed: 150
Bio: more...
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Posted on:11/2/09 10:41 AM
Last Updated:11/2/09 6:17 PM
Pattern Size:Plus-Sized Regular 
Project Photo:photo
Pattern Photo:

More Info provided by Debbie Cook

Pattern Rating:Highly Recommend
Current Tags What is a Tag:
Fabric:Linen Blend  [See other projects in this fabric]
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(I just love the mirror in my sewing room. My rear as shown in the main review photo is actually wider IRL!)

Front view. I did hem them a smidge long because I just know this linen will shrink a little more.

Pattern Description: From the Hot Patterns website: "Fabulously relaxed glamour in these stunning pants, designed for a drapey pants-weight fabric...try a fluid washed linen, heavy rayon blends, single or double knits or heavy crepe. Relaxed-fit straight leg pants sit around 1" below the natural waist and feature a drawstring waist with fly front zipper. Side seam pockets are topstitched down. Pants finish with a deep hem; optional buttoned tab allows the pants to also be worn rolled up. These are the perfect relaxed Pants and an essential addition to your HotPatterns wardrobe... relaxed at the waist but sleek over the tummy, hips and derriere. Make them in crepe and wear with a sequined tank for a modern night-time look; try them in a slouchy, fluid linen with a drapey knit top and soft jacket for everyday chic, or wear them in a stable cashmere knit with a matching Tshirt for superior lounging gear."

Pattern Sizing: Multi-size, 6-26

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, but mine looked even more like HP designer Trudy's personal pants than the leggy envelope model.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, the instructions are good. This is a recent HP pattern, so the instructions are also illustrated with line drawings. Trudy is a good girl when she sews as all the fiddly bits such as getting all the separate pieces interfaced, joined, buttonholed, and just plain ready are listed first. These are usually the parts I put off to last.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I was looking for something out of my usual jeans/capris comfort zone but without leaving the real "comfort zone" if you know what I mean. These pants fit the bill. I think they look nice and are very comfortable to wear. No dislikes.

One thing I was unsure of until they were done were the sideseam pockets. I usually do not like these pockets on me but they turned out fine. They are topstitched from the front so they do not move around. There is a tiny bit of gaping when I move, but really, it's very minimal. Beside, I'm never going to wear these pants with a tucked-in shirt unless I've also got on a jacket which would cover the pockets anyway.

Pocket close-up

Side view of pocket

When I make these again, I think I'll try shaped patch pockets on top instead of sideseam pockets. I think those would be nice too and give the pants a different look.

Fabric Used: Oatmeal linen/rayon blend purchased from Fabric.com EONS ago. I've stared at this piece of fabric in my stash for so long. I think that's part of the reason I ordered this pattern - just so I could finally move this fabric out of the stash.

Pattern alterations: I did cut and sew a very quick muslin for these, leaving off any pieces other than the fronts and backs. The results of the muslin showed me I would need to make my usual alteration for full inner thighs and that I would need to raise the crotch length at the waist by about 2 inches (more at CB).

Instead of starting at Ground Zero, I pulled out a TNT pull-on pants pattern and laid it underneath my HP tracing to see how far off things were. The two patterns were actually not that far apart. The main difference was the angle of the CB seam. The other changes were (1) to add more inner thigh width to both the front and back pieces from crotch point to knee level. I added about 1" total, (2) remove hip width about equal to what was added by changing the CB seam angle, (3) to add crotch length as mentioned above, and (4) to reshape the front crotch curve a little less deep.

Here is a photo taken from the Hot Patterns video for these pants, where Trudy is showing her personal changes to the pattern. My alterations were very similar to hers, which isn't surprising since my body shape is very similar too. My additional changes are shown with the red dots.

I did not make a second muslin, figuring my first try would either work or be good enough for a first try. I'm happy to say they worked!

Construction Changes: The pattern is drafted with separate fly pieces. I taped them onto the pattern and used the Sandra Betzina fly construction method instead. I also used a snap for the closure instead of a button.

Fly close-up

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I will sew these again and will probably incorporate little changes so they're all different. I highly recommend this pattern. This is now my third HP pattern in a row that works for me. Curvy girls take notice.

Conclusion: A great casual pair of pants that aren't jeans. I could see me living in linen pants like these all summer long and into "winter" here in Florida. Even though it's now November, it's still quite hot and these pants will get worn plenty.

ETA: I've been wearing them all day today and they are *definitely* comfortable (and a bit more wrinkled!). They felt like a soft breeze when I was outside with the dogs around noon, when it's still 85+ and slightly humid. Yes, I definitely need a closet full of these pants in more linen by next summer (March).
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Reader Comments
moushka 11/2/09Usual great review, Debbie. The pants look fantastic on you. Your reviews are so inspiring to this 'curvy girl'. Thank you.
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pterion 11/2/09Nice looking pants, beautifully made (as always). Thanks for the review!
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Mermie 11/2/09These pants look great on you. Great review.
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sewbehind 11/2/09These look great on you, Debbie. It's a nice change from jeans. I envy your warmer weather.
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Irene Q 11/2/09As usual, great review - and great pants! Who know Hot Patterns would fit so well for "us"!
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gatorgirl4325 11/2/09Thanks for the reveiw on this pattern - one more I *need* to buy....sigh. Your pants turned out great!
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sew obsessed 11/2/09Wow Debbie, great fit! The back looks fabulous! I just bought a copy of this one so this review will be very helpful. Thanks.
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Elona 11/2/09Great looking pants, Debbie! This pattern seems to be a real winner (and can I borrow your rear view mirror?)
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cindyann 11/2/09This patterns has really gotten my attention lately. Very nice pants, Debbie. I just love your colorful facings.
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Rhonda in Montreal 11/2/09What a GOOD "bum view"!! YOU know what I mean, Debbie :)
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Katharine in BXL 11/2/09Yowza, you got your money's worth with this pattern. The rear-view fit is impeccable! You're really skilled at getting the fit right. Nice to have moved that fabric from inactive stash to regular rotation in the closet :)
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OP Gal 11/2/09Amazing fit, Debbie. I've only sewn one HP pattern, but I'm anxious to try another. Your success with this one has got me pumped!
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PVA 11/2/09Oh, Wow! Way Coooool! I made pants out of a rayon/linen blend & only did the pre-shrink deal once. Flood Pants! (8^() (pout!) Ah well, live & learn.
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no7262 11/2/09They really look great! Nora :)
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michellep74 11/2/09I'm wearing my (still-to-be-reviewed) version of these pants today. LOVE this pattern. Your version looks great!
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stretch queen 11/2/09I want your mirror :) Pants look great and it is good to see the pants on someone other than the cover model. They look great on you, they may look great on me.
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Nancy K 11/2/09That is one good looking rear end Debbie! A really great flattering fit. There is nothing like a pair of washed linen pants for warm weather.
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Deepika 11/2/09Those pants look awesome Debbie.
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emelle 11/2/09very nice and informative review too...thanks
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Barbara V 11/3/09Great looking pants, Debbie. Lovely fabric and nice details. Thanks for highlighting the Sandra Betzina fly construction. I will look that up.
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Annette1 11/3/09I LOVE your pants, Debbie, and I had not even noticed this pattern before. Now I feel like I MUST havew it, and I know another lady who will feel the same way (Karendee). What makes them so nice is the FIT: not so baggy as to appear sloppy, and yet STILL loose enough AND chic. By the way, why don't you send me that mirror of yours. I think I have a GREATER NEED for it than you do!
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katie lynne 11/3/09As usual, a super duper review, Debbie! I've been wondering about this pattern. Thank you very much for the Curvy Girl comment. I'm in the same pattern range (actually more like self-basting), and I find it very hard not to get sucked into buying patterns that I think I can alter enough to make fit me. (I'm in denial that I don't look like I did in my 30s!) I'm with you about the comfort zone aspect--especially regarding pants! These pants are fabulous. I'm going to have to make some in linen; that sounds so luxurious.
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JudyP 11/3/09Great pants, Debbie! I love this style of pants in the hot weather. The fit looks perfect!
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Rebecca D 11/3/09You look great in these pants, just great. Thanks for such a helpful review.
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Doris Stewart 11/3/09Thanks for the review. Awesome - as usual ;-)
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Pam Padilla 11/3/09The photos are very helpful.
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Mufffet 11/3/09Nice pants! Thanks for the review of this pattern - it does look comfy. I love your pockets.
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li'l miss muffett 11/3/09These look awesome...I'm tempted to bite the bullet even more now! Dangit!
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Lee Ann Hawkins 11/5/09You do such wonderful reviews and such meticulous work, like the fun print on the inside of the waistband and fly. Thank you for sharing with all of us once again. These look great on you!
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Meredith P 11/11/09Love seeing such beautiful sewing. These look great on you, Debbie. I've got my pattern, just waiting for time.
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Margaret 11/11/09Very informative review! Great fit & I love the pockets!
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