|Pattern Description: The pattern envelope says "Semi-fitted, lined, tapered skirt has raised waist with band, side panels, no side seams, invisible back zipper, and vent. Seams and darts have topstitching and edgestitching." In my world, this is a very close-fitting, tapered skirt.|
Side seams detail
Pattern Sizing: The pattern comes with sizes 4-12 or 12-20 in a single envelope.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? My skirt does look like the envelope photo, more or less, but it would not have if I had not made major fitting changes.
Were the instructions easy to follow? I do not usually follow instructions, but I did when making this skirt. This was a mistake. I am pretty sure it would be easier to sew the front darts and angled waistband seam LAST, instead of sewing the darts first, and trying to sew the waistband on, complete with that acute angle, dead last. After the lining and outer layer are basted together, I think it is physically impossible to sew in the waistband as instructed, or at least it would be very difficult to get a good result.
This is what the project looked like at Step 18; Step 22 is what I decided was impossible to accomplish.
In case anybody cares, what I ended up doing (after I ripped out the basting holding the two layers together) was to sew the waistband separately to the fashion fabric and lining layer, which meant working that angle four times. Painful but it worked. Here is how it looked once complete.
Another alternative would have been to alter the waistband so there was a seam at the top instead of a fold. This would have made inserting the zipper easier too...
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the lines of this skirt and how they are all accented with topstitching.
Fabric Used: Probably a wool and cashmere blend, somewhat plush coating, acquired from a thrift shop. My skirt is underlined with silk organza to stabilize it, and lined with hot pink lining, all from stash.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I made two muslins before cutting into my fabric, because I did not trust the fit. It's a good thing I did, too!
I discovered that as drafted, the front darts were too deep, and there was too much length from the waist to hip level in the CF piece. The front looked puffy. Simultaneously, the skirt as designed was very snug through the thigh area. It pulled in under my seat and didn't leave much room to walk. This side view of my first muslin illustrates both problems. (There are lots more muslin photos on my Flickr page.)
The CF piece alteration is shown here. I slashed through the dart and horizontally below the dart point, leaving the ends of the slashes connected with tiny paper hinges, and then slid the upper part down so the CF (fold) stayed straight. This shortened the front while also making the darts smaller, therefore producing a flatter front piece.
I also added to the backand sidepieces based on my muslin. You can see that I pretty much ignored the size lines on the tissue!
After all this, there is about 7cm (2") of ease at the hip, which in my books is the minimum needed for wearing comfort. Interestingly, the waist is not tight at all - there's lots of room to tuck a stop into it.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I probably will not sew this again, as it's rather distinctive (and was a pain to make, really).
Vogue's call that this is an "Advanced/Plus Difficile" pattern is fair; their instructions make it more difficult to construct than is strictly necessary, I think. Do not take this on unless you are prepared to alter for fit and can handle the complications of the multiple seaming and construction details. So, do I "recommend" it? Only if you love the outcome so much you are willing to put up with the pattern. Lucky thing, I like my skirt a lot!
There is more on my blog, The Sewing Lawyer.