|Pattern Description: |
Misses' wrap dress has pleated bodice and draped, pleated skirt with shaped hem. Choice of cut-on dolman sleeves or long sleeve with very dropped shoulder.
6-22. I cut an 8 at the shoulders and bust to a 10 at the waist and a 12 at the hip.
A polyester knit from a free bundle from Fabric Mart in September 2011.
Total cost, including pattern and notions: around $5
Time to Make:
Once you mark and sew all the pleats and darts, this goes together pretty quickly. I spent about 9 hours on it.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like the shaped hem and cut on sleeve. No dislikes on this version, although I don't like the dropped shoulder for a long sleeve.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope?
Were the instructions easy to follow?
They were fine.
Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
-As usual for wrap styles, I took out 2 1/2 inches of length along the front diagonal neck opening. For Burdas I do about 1 1/2 inches but I find the Big 4 need much more. Here, 2 1/2 inches still wasn't enough. I took up some of the extra length by slightly stretching clear elastic while serging it in place, but I finally had to resort to the Universal Symbol of Sewist Surrender: tacking the crossover closed where the left and right front intersect at the neckline to prevent gapage. For next time, I've folded out another inch of length, for a total of 3 1/2 inches.
-I also narrowed the front pleats slightly for a small bust adjustment. The dress is meant to be somewhat large/loose, but I didn't want it to veer into actively baggy. This seemed to be just about perfect, for once! The bodice has a lot of ease, but it does not look grotesquely oversized for my bust.
-I shortened the skirt 1 1/2 inches along the lengthen/shorten line. It is still a fairly conservative length; you can see on the pattern illustration (though we all know how accurate *those* are) that this is meant to be right at the bottom of the kneecap. I'm not sure if it would be *quite* that long on an average height woman, but probably pretty close.
-To fit the dress, I made a casing out of the waistline seam allowance and use elastic to fit the waist, leaving the rest loose. This worked quite well. The front feels a little bulky, as there are two layers of elastic where the two fronts cross one another, but it doesn't seem to actually look bulky.
The waist sits slightly above my natural waist, which is high to begin with. It's a flattering spot for me, but most people will probably prefer to lengthen the bodice, and I will probably do so if I make this in a woven.
The level of ease on the un-elasticated waist is just about perfect for a woven, so it fits fairly true to size for a Big 4 pattern (true-to-size in the sense that I always make about 2 sizes smaller than I "should" and the fit usually requires only minor tweaks from there).
-It's supposed to be held together by inside ties, but I topstitched through both layers of the fronts at each of the front's ends (here's an inside view) to make a pullover dress.
-I was concerned that the sleeves might be too open. If I were to stand sideways and hold my arms all the way out, yes, you would catch a glimpse of bra band (no side boob visible on me, but I cannot attest to that for someone with a larger bust). However, I don't think there is any flashing in normal type of wear. I'll just need to remember always to wear a fleshtone bra underneath (which I generally wear anyway).
-I finished the edges by turning under and twin needling. This is perfectly fine for a knit. For a woven I would probably make an insanely long length of bias tape to finish all the way around.
In giving both knit and woven as a choice for this pattern, McVoguerick expresses once again that nobody at the company sews. First of all, there is the difference in ease, though their philosophy is always "the more ease, the better!" so perhaps they think the extra ease that will come in making this in a knit is just a bonus. It also has little touches, like the tiny back neck darts, that really aren't details for knits. Nonetheless, the dress works really well in a knit (next time I would just fold out those tiny back neck darts.)
I was genuinely surprised by how cute this turned out. I thought the pleats might be bulky or poofy, but in fact they lay well and have a nice flow in motion. It's also a fairly easy make with only 4 pattern pieces, once you mark and sew the 16(!!!) pleats and darts.
All photos are here and the blog post is here.