|(Pardon all the wrinkles in the picture; it is straight from the wash - no ironing. And yes, the bust darts look funny - read on to find out why. This was a muslin, after all.)|
Well, Dale has a much more observant eye than I do! (See comment, below.) I thought it was just a funny drawing, but no - it is supposed to be a cut-out in the shoulder area, using the piping to link the back and front.
So this is why the bust dart was so extremely high!
I guess I will go back to the poor instructions. Including typos. Yikes. I will have to try the 'real' version of the dress someday; it's a nice design feature.
So, with that in mind: if you want a dress that does NOT have the cut-outs at the shoulders, lengthen above the bust dart. If you want a dress that DOES have the cut-outs at the shoulders, you won't need to do that. (But you will need to decipher the instructions. Hint: they meant to type "short" not "sort", and I think "strip" not "stripe".)
Description from site: "Dress"
I was looking for a simple bias-dress pattern. I used search engines to find this, since you would never know it is bias cut to look at the description on the website. But the pdf file has 'bias' in the content, and I was able to find it that way. My description of the dress: Sleeveless, bias-cut dress with front and back seam, optional piping for the neckline and armholes.
Custom sizing. You put in your measurements, they generate the pattern file and email it to you.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes. I did not use the piping, though; I used bias binding. And one minor issue (see below) which resulted in a 'design feature' for this dress.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
For this muslin, I made it straight from the download. The bust dart was definitely too high, and the armscye is a little too snug. (I probably should have measured it before sewing it, but I didn't.) I don't think my arm is particularly large, and although my bust pointn might be slightly low it isn't dramatically. So this seems to be a slight flaw with the pattern, although one that is easily corrected by simply adding a little length to the front above the dart - one change will take care of both problems at once. For my wearable muslin, I simply stitched a longer dart, which created a fabric fold.
I cut the pattern pieces without the seam allowance. I marked the stitching line. I then marked the cutting line, using the stitching line for reference. This is my preferred approach with bias garments.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Instructions? Well, this is definitely not a learn-to-sew pattern. On the plus side, they do mention to let the dress hang for 24-hours before hamming. On the minus side, that is the 2nd instruction, in-between cutting out the pieces and sewing the darts. There are a few other confusing aspects of the instructions.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Dislike: no fabric requirement estimate given. I understand that these are custom sized, but some indication would be useful. For example, "expect to use 4 yards of 45 inch wide fabric for many sizes." (I used about 3.5 yards of 45" fabric.)
Dislike: The bust-dart issue & armscye issue.
Dislike: having to print out the many pages.
Like: I found their format for marking the pages, with marks all around, very easy to use for matching. So taping this together really went very quickly and was easy.
Like: Exactly the style I wanted.
Like: Custom sized. Other than the one drafting issue (shoulder to bust-dart length), the fit is great.
Like: You can request the pattern either with or without seam allowances. If you select with, the stitching line is still marked.
Like: the front and back seam allow for the proper hang of the bais garment.
Silk charmeuse that I got for the spectacular price of $3.50 per yard from Angus International Silk, via E-Bay (in 2004). I was willing to use it for a muslin of this dress. I let the finished dress hang for a couple weeks before I got around to hemming it, so the silk had plenty of time to stretch on the bias.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I will definitely sew it again.
This wears exactly as would be expected from a simple bias-cut dress, and is just what I wanted. I will just lengthen the front above the bustline for future versions.