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Spadea: 2182 (Chanel Jacket) - Type:Coat/Jacket
Review submitted in 2013 Lined Jacket Contest Contest    printable version
Viewed 527 times
Review rated Helpful by 2 people    Very Helpful by 15 people   
Reviewed by:JetSetSewing
photo
Friend of PR
About JetSetSewingstar
MA USA
Member since: 6/29/12
Reviews written: 10
Sewing skills:Advanced
Favored by: 6 people
patterns reviewed: 10
Bio: more...
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Posted on:10/31/13 4:40 PM
Last Updated:2/4/14 8:33 PM
Project Photo:Spadea: 2182  by JetSetSewing

Spadea: 2182  by JetSetSewing  Spadea: 2182  by JetSetSewing  
Pattern Photo:

Pattern Info provided by JetSetSewing

Pattern Rating:Difficult, but great for Advanced Sewers
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Fabric:Wool Tweed  [See other projects in this fabric]
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Check out details on my blog, JetSetSewing.com.
Pattern Description: This 1962 Spadea pattern, which says "Chanel reproduced by Suzy Perette", is most likely the only officially licensed Chanel jacket pattern ever released. In the 60s, before the days of off-shore apparel manufacturing, American retail fashion companies would license actual designs from French companies like Chanel and manufacture exact copies in the US. The company that released this pattern, Spadea, created their patterns by deconstructing those retail garments to make exact copies. So this pattern was drafted from a Chanel-designed retail jacket.
Pattern Sizing:
If you look closely, you'll see it's for "the mature figure." That's me LOL! I sized it up slightly from the 36 1/2 bust, but kept the 60s boxy fit and tight armholes that, according to Diana Vreeland, are what "make" a Chanel jacket, since you can lift your arm without the shoulder coming up with it. I used Susan Khalje's couture sewing techniques to make and fit a muslin, mark and cut the fabric, and construct the jacket, much of it by hand. I learned the techniques by taking Susan's "Haute Couture Dress" class on Craftsy.com. I highly recommend that class for projects like this! Rumor has it Susan is coming out with a Chanel jacket pattern and DVD later this year.
Here's my Chanel Jacket Pinterest Page with links to that class and other resources I've used when researching and making Chanel Jackets.
Also FYI, Claire Shaeffer has a new book out called "Couture Sewing: The Couture Cardigan Jacket" that comes with a DVD and describes her technique to make this type of jacket. It has a lot of interesting background on Chanel Jackets from various eras.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, although I added trim and skipped the frog closure. I made sure that the center front seams were hanging in parallel lines even when the jacket is open, which is the hallmark of a couture jacket like this.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
For a vintage pattern, they were thorough and clear. However, they were written for women in the 1960s, who generally had high-level sewing skills. The pattern itself is unprinted, but I knew how to interprete the notches and holes to find the grainline, darts, ease markings etc.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Having researched Chanel jackets from the early 60s, this is the real deal. I particularly like the two center panels that intersect with the neckline and have parallel lines in the CF and over the bust. It gives the pattern a very clean line that was surprisingly easy to fit. There are also vertical lined welt pockets that give the jacket a little different look. Though vertical pockets are not the norm on Chanel jackets, I have seen authentic versions from the 60s and 90s with vertical pockets like these. The sleeve is a one-part sleeve that very cleverly mocks a three-part sleeve by using a slash and facing to create the vent. The Mandarin collar is typical of Chanel jackets from this era.
Fabric Used:
I used a blue/gray wool herringbone-weave boucle (with silver threads woven through for sparkle) from Janssen et Janssens in Paris, with a silk organza interlining quilted to the boucle. The lining is a Carolina Herrera silk crepe de chine from Emma One Sock. The chain weight, woven into a twill tape, is from Mood Fabrics in LA. The resin buttons from from the Bon Marche in Paris. I used silk thread throughout--so much easier for hand-sewing! The trim is also from Janssens et Janssens, into which I wove in fibers from the boucle to have it go with the jacket better. That was at the suggestion of an elfin male French dressmaker I met at Janssens et Janssens, who told me the trim was "too taupe". I was skeptical at first, but he was so right! He also told me he had worked at Chanel, and that haute couture suits like these now go for more than $50,000!
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I stayed true to the pattern in construction, though the pattern only calls for an organza underlining for the center front panels. It didn't seem to have enough body, though, so I decided to underline the entire bodice with organza and quilt the organza to the fashion fabric. I also added sleevehead under the sleeve caps. I hand-sewed in the lining and also hand-sewed the trim to the neck, pockets and sleeves. Since the trim is wide, I used woven thread loops instead of buttonholes to go around the buttons.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Oh, hell yes, if I ever get in the mood to make another one of these, which will probably be never. It takes 100 hours! It's lovely and soft without shoulder pads and stiff interfacing, though, and the construction makes it really strong. I've thrown my other haute couture jacket in my carry-on and it jumps out ready to go, thanks to the organza underlining. But honestly, I think this is the only copy of this pattern that still exists. If you come across it, you should make it!
Conclusion:
This was my 4th Chanel jacket, and now I'm done. When I saw this pattern, I couldn't resist giving it another go. If you undertake a "Chanel from hell" I recommend adding the organza underlining to give it more body. And give yourself plenty of time!
Check out details on my blog, JetSetSewing.com.
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28 Comments      Login to Add a Comment
ArtAttack said...
Gorgeous jacket inside and out! Beautiful work. Good luck in the contest and thanks for participating.
10/31/13 7:16 PM
JetSetSewing said...
Dorcas, thanks for running the contest! You got us through.
10/31/13 8:36 PM
madbadger said...
Incredible work! 100 hours and worth every minute!
10/31/13 9:09 PM
Quickie said...
Great result you can be proud
10/31/13 11:59 PM
Quickie said...
Great result you can be proud
10/31/13 11:59 PM
Quickie said...
Great result you can be proud
10/31/13 11:59 PM
Jstarr4250 said...
Exquisite in every way. How lucky you are to own this pattern. "Elfin male French dressmaker" made me laugh!
11/1/13 7:34 AM
VivianZ said...
Wow! Tres fantastic!!
11/1/13 8:15 AM
grays08 said...
Red Sox win....just thinking of you watching the series while doing all that hand sewing! Beautiful, outstanding work on this - it's breathtaking! Love that lining too...just exemplary jacket!
11/1/13 10:12 AM
HawkeMorningStar7 said...
WOW gorgeous workmanship, a truly lovely jacket!
11/1/13 11:08 AM
marec said...
Lovely jacket and an inspiration to me...should I try one?
11/1/13 11:33 AM
JetSetSewing said...
Yes, I was definitely sewing on hooks and eyes during the big game! It helped with all that nervous energy. I think anyone could make a Chanel with the right guidance and perseverance. Claire Schaeffer has a new book/DVD that's very thorough, and I heard that Susan Khalje is coming out with a pattern/DVD. I learned the haute couture techniques taking Susan's "Haute Couture Dress" course on Craftsy.com. It completely transformed my sewing! I have a Pinterest page called "make your own Chanel jacket" with links to a number of resources.
11/1/13 11:57 AM
MrsCharisma said...
This is amazing!
11/3/13 3:44 PM
Meg McKinney said...
Wow -- what a fabulous jacket! And, the name "Spadea" jumped out at me. I haven't seen or heard that name in decades. I grew up about 2 miles from Milford, NJ, where Spadea had their testing and sewing division --- in a renovated, old historic mill located along the Delaware River --- and a number of my mother's friends who sewed very, very well, worked there, sewing and testing patterns. I always knew that Spadea was for advanced sewing people, because of the way the patterns and instructions were, but the results of Spadea patterns were just wonderful --- even as a middle schooler and jr. high school student, I admired the clothes. Anyway, I'm glad to see someone still sews from Spadea (which got sold to ???), and that you made an honest-to-goodness Chanel jacket! Wow ... that's on my bucket list of sewing. Meg McKinney
11/4/13 0:08 AM
Meg McKinney said...
PS: Please see my longer Comments. Where did you find the Spadea pattern? eBay? collectors? I'm astounded that anyone has one of them, anywhere, much less the Chanel jacket pattern!
11/4/13 0:18 AM
JetSetSewing said...
Hi Meg, thanks for your comments! I'm going to message you because I'm doing some research on Spadea for a possible project. I've found them on eBay and vintage pattern sites, but they are rare and pricey! I'm just starting a blog at jetsetsewing.com and will be talking more about Spadea in upcoming posts. Julie
11/4/13 6:16 AM
petro said...
Very pretty jacket.
11/4/13 8:41 AM
cleverkitty said...
Beautiful sewing you do tvjulie and inspiring post, your jacket is outstanding, love the pockets on this version :)
11/5/13 7:50 AM
AndreaSews said...
Beautiful! Good luck in the contest.
11/5/13 9:06 AM
manola6176 said...
Fabulous jacket. Good luck for the contest. I am going to check your pinterest board. Thaks for it.
11/5/13 12:26 PM
sewing53 said...
wow, truly amazing!
11/6/13 8:01 PM
Margaret said...
Lovely work and wonderful jacket!
11/8/13 10:16 AM
carolynw said...
Truly outstanding and great review. Thanks for sharing
2/5/14 12:16 PM
caroljeancarmichael said...
Hail Julie, Couture Sewer!
2/5/14 6:44 PM
Biblioto said...
Bravo! Beautiful! Thank you for your post. I'm about to embark on my first chanel-type jacket and had been debating about whether or not to line w/ organza. The Pinterest board is super helpful too. Thank you!
2/5/14 7:26 PM
Sharonspils said...
Stunning jacket and the lining is perfect!
2/5/14 11:05 PM
CissieW said...
Gorgeous jacket. I love everything about it -- your trim, the mandarin collar, the lining fabric! Makes me itch to make another one.
2/6/14 7:46 AM
redside said...
Wow--what a beautiful result.
2/6/14 10:34 AM
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