|Pattern Description: Misses Lined Jacket & Belt: Semi-fitted jacket w/princess seams, flaps, front band & two-piece sleeves; jacket A has standing collar; jackets B, C have collar with collar band; jacket C has belt w/buckle; button closing.|
I made view B.
Pattern Sizing: AA(6,8,10,12), D5(12,14,16,18,20)
I chose size 10...bust 32.5", with ease 37", waist 25", with ease 31.5". With princess seaming it's easy to refine the fit to your liking.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? I think it does look like the photo on the envelope.
Were the instructions easy to follow? They were easy...they do assume you know how/when to do some things, such as dealing with lots of curved seaming.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I don't have any dislikes with this pattern. In fact, I love it. It gives you the garment pictured and all the pieces fit together perfectly. I love the on-seam buttonholes...my new fave!
On step 33...one typo...it says 'Clip side front lining seam allowances to small circles'. It should say 'Clip side back lining seam allowances...'. the accompanying diagram is correct in showing the clipped back lining seam allowances.
I really enjoyed this pattern so I give it a frustration rating of 0! LOL
Fabric Used: Suggested fabrics are gabardine, medium weight linen, denim, tweed, wool, wool blends. (This jacket would be smashing in a gabardine!) For size 10 it calls for 2 yd. of 60".
I was somewhat determined to use stash fabrics here. I rummaged around and pulled out this plum wool that I purchased in June of 2012 at the now-closed independent fabric shop in town. It's such a lovely shade and so 'me' that I thought it would be perfect. Unfortunately, it's not photographing well...it is looking more grapey-purple. It's actually closer to Pantone 19-2820...more reddish than bluish if you know what I mean.
Then I started pulling out other jacket fabrics just to see if I had anything that would coordinate with the plum. In the back of the closet was this roll of multi-colored wool boucle. I remembered it well...I bought it in August of 2010 at the same shop. I put the 2 fabrics side by side and thought they looked nice but the boucle was looking a little dark, a little too much brown...not the pop I was hoping for. I thought I would unroll them both anyway and drape them on Mona to see if my heart raced at all, and low and behold ETA: (right side is on the right in the pic) I had the multi wool rolled with the good side in...so I had been looking at the wrong side! OMG when I saw the right side with the pops of bright green and hot pink I was almost giddy! It looked so good with the plum wool! I draped them on Mona for a few days and finally decided to do the sleeves and collar out of the multi-collared wool boucle. Yay!
I wasn't so lucky with stash lining choices...I had nothing exciting to go with the wool combo so I headed over to EOS. She had a bemberg called 'rose' and I bought it right then on the spot. According to the Pantone # it was a perfect match to the hot pink in the boucle, and when it came I thought myself rather lucky that day because it fit quite nicely into the color palette.
I used a combination of interfacings and spent the better part of day 1 doing samples. I ended up using Palmer Pletsch Perfect Fuse Tailor Ultra on the fronts and front bands, Palmer Pletsch Perfect Fuse Light on the collar band, and Fashion Sewing Supply Pro-Tricot Fusible Knit on the under-collar.
Threads were purchased at Superior (love them!)...I used So Fine 50 #'s 481 and 441, and Tire #50 Silk in 77.
The buttons I covered myself in the plum wool. I had the sets in my notions stash. I did not want the buttons standing out as a focal point so I made them neutral. I used 7/8" size.
I used 1/4" shoulder pads purchased at either SewTrue or JoAnn's.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I am not a fan of pocket flaps with no pockets so I omitted those. I considered adding pockets but did not want to add any bulk in that area of the jacket.
I added 1/2" to the upper back of the jacket and lining pieces.
I reinforced the shoulders of the jacket and lining. I topstitched all the lining seams (I don't know why I do this...I just like the way it looks and it keeps the seam allowances in check inside).
I reinforced the ends of the on-seam buttonholes in the jacket and lining with bar tacks.
I catchstitched every stinkin seam on the inside of the jacket just to keep them neat and tame.
I handstitched-in-the-ditch the entire length of both front bands seams and the entire collar seams. Here's a tip that I use: if you need to do any stitching-in-the-ditch by hand, use a needlepoint needle...the end is blunt and it slips right through the seam without catching on any threads, or you can use a regular hand needle but push the eye end through first instead of the sharp end.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I am pretty sure I will make this pattern again. I love the belted version pictured and I'd like to try the band collar option...hmmmm, maybe in gabardine.
I would recommend this pattern to intermediate and above sewists, or maybe advanced beginners who have had some lined jacket experience.
Conclusion: I adore my new jacket and I'm so happy to have used those fabrics from my stash. I have wanted to make this jacket pattern for a long time and I am very pleased with how it turned out. The pattern is a good one. It's OOP I think, so if you happen to have it in your stash consider yourself lucky.
front on Mona
back on Mona
open on Mona
front on me
back on me