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McCall's: 5759 (Misses Lined Jacket) thumbsup - Type:Coat/Jacket
Review submitted in 2013 Lined Jacket Contest Contest    printable version
Viewed 421 times 13 more reviews
Review rated Very Helpful by 10 people   
Reviewed by:PattyE
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About PattyEstarstar
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Member since: 9/7/10
Reviews written: 72
Sewing skills:Intermediate
Favored by: 28 people
patterns reviewed: 72
Bio: more...
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Posted on:10/28/13 5:36 PM
Last Updated:10/28/13 5:43 PM
Project Photo:McCall's: 5759 by PattyE

Pattern Photo:McCall's 5759
McCall's Pattern Info
Pattern Rating:Highly Recommend
See other patterns in this category: Coat/Jacket    
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Fabric:Wool Woven  [See other projects in this fabric]
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Pattern Description: Misses Lined Jacket & Belt: Semi-fitted jacket w/princess seams, flaps, front band & two-piece sleeves; jacket A has standing collar; jackets B, C have collar with collar band; jacket C has belt w/buckle; button closing.

I made view B.

Pattern Sizing: AA(6,8,10,12), D5(12,14,16,18,20)

I chose size 10...bust 32.5", with ease 37", waist 25", with ease 31.5". With princess seaming it's easy to refine the fit to your liking.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? I think it does look like the photo on the envelope.

Were the instructions easy to follow? They were easy...they do assume you know how/when to do some things, such as dealing with lots of curved seaming.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I don't have any dislikes with this pattern. In fact, I love it. It gives you the garment pictured and all the pieces fit together perfectly. I love the on-seam buttonholes...my new fave!

On step 33...one typo...it says 'Clip side front lining seam allowances to small circles'. It should say 'Clip side back lining seam allowances...'. the accompanying diagram is correct in showing the clipped back lining seam allowances.

I really enjoyed this pattern so I give it a frustration rating of 0! LOL

Fabric Used: Suggested fabrics are gabardine, medium weight linen, denim, tweed, wool, wool blends. (This jacket would be smashing in a gabardine!) For size 10 it calls for 2 yd. of 60".

I was somewhat determined to use stash fabrics here. I rummaged around and pulled out this plum wool that I purchased in June of 2012 at the now-closed independent fabric shop in town. It's such a lovely shade and so 'me' that I thought it would be perfect. Unfortunately, it's not photographing well...it is looking more grapey-purple. It's actually closer to Pantone 19-2820...more reddish than bluish if you know what I mean.

Then I started pulling out other jacket fabrics just to see if I had anything that would coordinate with the plum. In the back of the closet was this roll of multi-colored wool boucle. I remembered it well...I bought it in August of 2010 at the same shop. I put the 2 fabrics side by side and thought they looked nice but the boucle was looking a little dark, a little too much brown...not the pop I was hoping for. I thought I would unroll them both anyway and drape them on Mona to see if my heart raced at all, and low and behold ETA: (right side is on the right in the pic) I had the multi wool rolled with the good side in...so I had been looking at the wrong side! OMG when I saw the right side with the pops of bright green and hot pink I was almost giddy! It looked so good with the plum wool! I draped them on Mona for a few days and finally decided to do the sleeves and collar out of the multi-collared wool boucle. Yay!

I wasn't so lucky with stash lining choices...I had nothing exciting to go with the wool combo so I headed over to EOS. She had a bemberg called 'rose' and I bought it right then on the spot. According to the Pantone # it was a perfect match to the hot pink in the boucle, and when it came I thought myself rather lucky that day because it fit quite nicely into the color palette.

I used a combination of interfacings and spent the better part of day 1 doing samples. I ended up using Palmer Pletsch Perfect Fuse Tailor Ultra on the fronts and front bands, Palmer Pletsch Perfect Fuse Light on the collar band, and Fashion Sewing Supply Pro-Tricot Fusible Knit on the under-collar.

Threads were purchased at Superior (love them!)...I used So Fine 50 #'s 481 and 441, and Tire #50 Silk in 77.

The buttons I covered myself in the plum wool. I had the sets in my notions stash. I did not want the buttons standing out as a focal point so I made them neutral. I used 7/8" size.

I used 1/4" shoulder pads purchased at either SewTrue or JoAnn's.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I am not a fan of pocket flaps with no pockets so I omitted those. I considered adding pockets but did not want to add any bulk in that area of the jacket.
I added 1/2" to the upper back of the jacket and lining pieces.
I reinforced the shoulders of the jacket and lining. I topstitched all the lining seams (I don't know why I do this...I just like the way it looks and it keeps the seam allowances in check inside).
I reinforced the ends of the on-seam buttonholes in the jacket and lining with bar tacks.
I catchstitched every stinkin seam on the inside of the jacket just to keep them neat and tame.
I handstitched-in-the-ditch the entire length of both front bands seams and the entire collar seams. Here's a tip that I use: if you need to do any stitching-in-the-ditch by hand, use a needlepoint needle...the end is blunt and it slips right through the seam without catching on any threads, or you can use a regular hand needle but push the eye end through first instead of the sharp end.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I am pretty sure I will make this pattern again. I love the belted version pictured and I'd like to try the band collar option...hmmmm, maybe in gabardine.

I would recommend this pattern to intermediate and above sewists, or maybe advanced beginners who have had some lined jacket experience.

Conclusion: I adore my new jacket and I'm so happy to have used those fabrics from my stash. I have wanted to make this jacket pattern for a long time and I am very pleased with how it turned out. The pattern is a good one. It's OOP I think, so if you happen to have it in your stash consider yourself lucky.

front on Mona
shoulder
back on Mona
open on Mona
lining
front on me
back on me

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28 Comments      Login to Add a Comment
Jstarr4250 said...
Well you certainly haven't lost your touch for gorgeous jackets. This is truly exceptional in every way from the color palette to the gorgeous fabrics (in your stash?!) and wonderful construction techniques. And I absolutely love your frustration factor rating system!
10/28/13 5:50 PM
ArtAttack said...
Oh, Patty, this is GORGEOUS! I've never seen an inseam buttonhole either and it gives it a very couture look. Fabulous colors on you. Great entry and thank you so much participating in the contest!
10/28/13 6:06 PM
madbadger said...
Beautiful!!! I really like the idea of top stitching the lining seams - will have to give that a try next time I make a jacket!
10/28/13 6:32 PM
Barbara V said...
This looks fantastic on you. I love those inseam buttonholes! Too sad about the independent fabric shop closing, but glad you could enjoy the two fabrics now from that source.
10/28/13 7:33 PM
slmstyle said...
Great looking jacket! Nice job!
10/28/13 7:36 PM
estikoen said...
beautiful jacket and it looks amazing on you! thanks for all the great sewing tips !
10/28/13 7:40 PM
cleverkitty said...
Exceptional sewing on this beautiful jacket, love the colors, buttons even your lining is over and beyond, excellent review with lots of pics :)
10/28/13 9:41 PM
SewWil said...
Gorgeous jacket! I love everything about it. GREAT JOB!!!
10/28/13 10:27 PM
cmcarr said...
Another winner. This is beautiful.
10/29/13 2:25 AM
Quickie said...
Good style on you
10/29/13 3:15 AM
grays08 said...
I honestly don't think you can achieve a better fit or finish on this, done to perfection! Absolutely fabulous, and you have completely sold me on this pattern. I very much appreciate all of the details and hardwork you put into this and am inspired by your work. Wonderful tip as well on the needle, I wish I had done that when backstitching my collar by hand as I kept catching threads. Beautiful fabric combo as well...just fantastic!
10/29/13 9:57 AM
STARG said...
Fabulous jacket! Time to pull this pattern out of the stash and sew it up! Love the contrasting sleeves and collar.
10/29/13 10:00 AM
JOshiro said...
Love this! The collar is awesome, and the finishing details are top notch. Beautifully done.
10/29/13 10:47 AM
SewLibra said...
All your work on this jacket really paid off. Beautiful, professional, and the fit is perfect!
10/29/13 2:13 PM
Sue Parrott said...
Adorable! Great jacket!
10/29/13 2:54 PM
PattyE said...
My goodness, thank you all for such lovely comments. What a wonderful supportive group we have! Jstarr - I have found treasures in there that even surprise me!! That's bad, isn't it?! LOL BarbaraV - Yes, isn't it sad when we lose the independent shops. And it was a gooood one too! grays - you are always so kind...thank you. STARG - Yes, make it up...I think you will like it!
10/29/13 4:15 PM
mnitts said...
Wow absolutely beautiful work!
10/29/13 5:35 PM
CraftAddict said...
LOVE!
10/29/13 10:08 PM
HawkeMorningStar7 said...
Beautifully handcrafted, your jacket is so lovely. Great buttons/inseam button holes and beautiful fabric. Thanks for all the construction tips.
10/30/13 12:28 PM
tvjulie said...
Lovely job on this! Love the contrasting fabric and perfect fit.
11/1/13 9:39 AM
marec said...
Patty, I love your choice of fabrics, and the many fine details you used to make this jacket a work of art. Truly lovely, and you look marvelous in it. This was fun, wasn't it?
11/1/13 11:09 AM
liliv said...
Oh my God this is gorgeous! I hadn't seen this type of buttonholes and I love them!
11/2/13 8:27 AM
petro said...
Super jacket!
11/4/13 8:55 AM
ggf2005 said...
Awesome!
11/5/13 2:44 PM
PattyE said...
Thank you so much, ladies! I appreciate the awesome comments.
11/5/13 4:11 PM
froggiegirl said...
This look so cute on you and I love your fabric combinations.
11/7/13 7:51 PM
Margaret said...
Beautiful and very original-looking jacket! Great fit and great review... nice to hear about your design decisions!
11/8/13 12:49 PM
ceejayem said...
Love your version and thankyou for all the wonderful details within your review, particularly regarding interfacing. The end result is fantastic... sometimes the stash knows best!
3/22/14 8:29 AM
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