|Pattern Description: Jacket with asymmetrical notched collar, in-seam and patch pockets, and sleeve vents.|
Pattern Sizing: Burda sizes 36-44. I used a combination of size 38 at the shoulders, 40 through the waist, and a size 42 over the hips.
Were the instructions easy to follow? I didn't think they were terrible, but I also don't think they would be the best instructions for a new sewer. I have gotten used to Burda over the years, and I have seen much worse from them, so I actually didn't mind them. I did, however, use additional instructions to make a backstay and to double check that I was mitering the sleeve vents correctly.
What did you particularly like/dislike about this pattern? Likes: Well, I chose it because of all the details - the band across the waist, the in-seam pockets, the sleeve vents, and the interesting collar shape. I still like all of the details because they make the jacket interesting and unique. I like that the pattern instructs you to use a lot of interfacing. It doesn't seem like many newer patterns interface the full front. Sadly, I think I probably would have been better served by ignoring this - my fabric was already rather thick and probably would have eased better without the added structure. Dislikes: I thought the fit was rather odd, especially for Burda. I traced/made another jacket at the same time, and the fit was much better with the other style. I even ended up using the other jacket to adjust the armscye and sleeves. This jacket was a bit boxier than I had anticipated, based on the model photos and all the princess seams, so I had to do a lot of adjusting to get it to look anything other than ill fitting and unflattering. Also, not a huge fan of patch pockets over the breast, so I left those off.
Fabric used: The shell was cotton corduroy from Fashion Fabrics Club. It had a slight amount of stretch, and was a pain to deal with on the curves. I have about a yard leftover - probably going to end up as a very basic skirt because I don't want to do anything too complicated with it. The lining was a lovely silk charmeuse from Santa Fe Fabrics in New Mexico. The piping was silk dupioni from Jo-Ann. The buttons were bought at Spector's Store in Shipshewana, Indiana. I used cotton muslin for the backstay, and interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply for the structure.
Pattern alterations or design changes you made: Design changes: I left off the patch pockets over the bust because I did not want them. I also added piping to the lining because I thought it would be a fun feature. Alterations: A lot. I did alterations for square shoulders, swayback, and full upper arms. I also raised the armscye and changed the shape of it quite a bit, because it extended too far from the body on the front. I used another Burda pattern (BS-06-2012-121) to help me alter the shape for the arms because that pattern fit me much better than this one did. Even after making a 1" swayback adjustment, I had to take in the princess seams on the back another 6/8" because in the stiffer corduroy it just looked too boxy and baggy. I also added additional interfacing and a backstay as instructed High Fashion Sewing Secrets.
Would you sew this again? Would you recommend this to others? I don't think I will be sewing this again. It is a very distinctive jacket, and walks the line between being casual and a bit more formal. I think the style looks fine on me, but I don't know if I love it enough to make more of them. I am happy with the way this turned out - it is quite comfortable and fills a need for a mid-weight fall jacket that my wardrobe has been sorely lacking that past few years. I would recommend this jacket to others if they like the style, but I would caution that the fit seems a bit odd compared to other Burda patterns and that a muslin is a must!
Conclusion: I am happy with the way my jacket turned out. It is a bit special because of the lining fabric and buttons, which I had collected on my travels to skating nationals over the years. I am also loving the piping detail around the lining. Something I will have to use again in the future I think. This is also a pattern I had been wanting to make for quite some time, so I am happy I finally got to it. It isn't something I think I will be making again in the future (I have a lot of other patterns I want to try), but I expect I this jacket will see a lot of use. It is surprisingly warm and rather comfortable to wear and move in. There were difficulties and frustrations along the way (and I can still see the imperfections when I look at it), but all in all I am pleased with my jacket and happy to have it off the sewing table and in my closet.
You can check out more photos on my blog.