Pattern with more than 5 reviews!
|Burda: 8186 (Men's Suit) - Type:Mens - Jackets|
Review submitted in 2013 Lined Jacket Contest Contest
|Viewed 265 times
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Review rated Very Helpful
by 19 people
|About grays08 |
|Member since: 9/13/11 |
|Reviews written: 87|
|Favored by: 29 people|
|patterns reviewed: 86|
|Posted on:||10/31/13 11:39 PM |
|Last Updated:||11/1/13 12:10 PM|
Burda Pattern Info
More Info provided by grays08
|Pattern Rating:||Difficult, but great for Advanced Sewers |
|See other patterns in this category: Mens - Jackets Mens - Shirts Mens - Pants |
|Available for sale on PR: $11.21 (See envelope) |
|Fabric:||Wool Woven [See other projects in this fabric]|
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|Pattern Description: |
Classic men's vested suit. Jacket A in frock-coat length, B in normal length, each with a back vent. Pants with crease and cuff.
I made view B which is the "normal" length suit jacket. It has two flapped, double welt pockets in the front along with an upper slant welt and the inside lining has a double welt pocket. There are four buttons on each two-piece sleeve. There is a back vent and sleeve vents which are sewn shut via lining (so not functional but could be if modified easily enough).
Euro 44-60/U.S. 34-50. I made a size 54/44 which is my husband's usual Burda size per his measurements, and this was spot-on. My husband is 6' 1", and I didn't have to add any length to this which is interesting.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, hooray! Oddly enough I only made a partial half muslin (I know, the shame right? Part of a half, oh yes!) just to check the shoulder adjustments I made but spent a lot of time flat measuring the pattern to ensure fit so it's always nice when it turns out as expected.
Pics on DH (most of these are attached to top of review via PR):
Alternate Front/Slant welt pocket view
Flat pictures showing details close-up:
Front flap welt pockets
Flap Welt inside
Upper slant welt
Back Vent lining
Welt pocket in lining
Sleeve buttons and lining
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes if you are used to Burda's instructions (good but high level/brief) and have done jacket lining before. I didn't use their lining instructions since I was bagging most of my lining, but I giggled when I read the two sentences about how they said to do it. So seek additional documentation - I used Palmer/Pletsch "Jackets for Real People". Burda's instructions for the jacket though I must say are top-notch, and I really appreciated them as well as their approach.
I will say to make sure you really read through the pre-instructions as there are several important notes (adjusting your vent pieces, lining, buttonhole locations, etc.), most importantly the one that explains that the front flapped welt pockets are for size 34 and must be relocated for any other sizes. Since the pocket spans the front and side front piece, I just marked 34 and then adjusted the marked location after I sewed the pieces together which worked well. I would also add there are other notes in the instructions for cutting additional strips of interfacing out for the lining welt pocket that were not mentioned in the prep section. So as is typical Burda, pay attention to every last word mentioned as it has value. = )
One odd thing for me was on the placement of the buttonholes/buttons for the front. Typically Burda will tell you to keep the bottom button placement on the pattern and just make all the holes equally distant after you adjust the very top hole for your size. In this pattern, they instruct you to adjust the top hole however keep them the same distance apart as what is shown on the pattern. This is what Burda reflected in their line drawing of the pattern details but not in the one they made up on the pattern envelope. So, my advice would be to keep the lowest buttonhole where it is, move the top for your size and space the other one in between. I followed the pattern and wish I hadn't as the lowest button is just a tad short of where I would want it to hit.
This pattern is also a tad different from most I've seen in that it uses full facings on all of the vents so they aren't completely hidden.
Another note, you do have to cut away a section of the left back lining for the vent which is a little irritating as Burda doesn't mark this in any way and has a specific, dedicated pattern piece to the back lining. I ended up removing a 2 3/8" wide strip that worked perfectly, but it took me some time to come to that magic number as to how much I needed to remove since you have to leave SA on the top and the side but still need to remove some.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
- I love how Burda drafts their jackets, and this is pattern is no exception - love the seaming, the back vent, the facings around the vents, two piece sleeve, the buttons on the sleeve, everything.
- The collar was one of the best experiences I've ever had in doing one, and I actually enjoyed Burda's way of doing it which is always great! They also drafted the upper/under collar for turn-of-cloth which is nice for a change as I've had some of theirs that did not and had to alter.
- I like how Burda did the back ease pleat in the lining for this. This was the first time I had done one that is sewn with a couple bends outward and the rest straight but it makes for a nice looking and handling ease pleat. I have only done the traditional middle pleat prior, but I like how they did this and made it easy to sew.
DISLIKES - none
An Italian worsted 100% wool suiting from Mood Fabrics for the jacket and Bemberg rayon for the lining. The interfacing is from Fashion Sewing Supply and is the ProWeft Supreme medium fusible. The buttons, shoulder pads and sleeve heads are from Wawak.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
- I made a 1/2" narrow shoulder adjustment by using Nancy Zieman's pivot and slide technique. It was quite complicated for this pattern due to all the pieces (facings, linings, main, etc.) and the fact that the front and back share one side piece that is also a part of the armscye. I'm happy to say that the alteration worked wonderfully. My husband always requires some alteration for this.
- I ended up bagging most of the lining by machine so did not use Burda's extremely brief sentence about it, lol. I ended up doing the vents all by hand because at that point, my brain could not take any more and these are fully-faced which makes them a little different.
- I added sleeve heads. Burda called for the shoulder pads, but I personally found it needed both the heads and the pads.
- I mitered the corners on all the vents as I just like how this looks and like to reduce bulk. I know it's a no-no in a lot of men's suits, but I just couldn't see not doing it.
- I added interfacing to the entire back piece. Pieces/parts of the back were called to be interfaced however needing a back stay, I just thought it made more sense to interface the entire back piece since the rest of the jacket is fully interfaced.
- One note, I should have adjusted for the chest hollow and added a bit of padding there before I lined it. I will have to go back at some point and add this as I think it would make the fit of the lapels and chest so much better. I had intended to do this but just forgot it.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Whew, not for awhile as it's a lot of work - it feels like I gave up my soul for a month lol, but I will revisit this pattern again I'm sure. It's a top-notch pattern for a men's suit jacket so I would highly recommend. This is the second thing I've sewn for DH (first time a dress shirt that I overadjusted the shoulder adjustment on so not sure that's a success exactly), but this suit has got to count like dog years or something toward my total because this thing really drained me, lol! Time for some sort of mindless knitwear project although I will over complicate that as well probably.....
I will say this, aside from taking a lot of time (it took two days just to cut out everything, another day just to fuse the interfacing to everything!), anyone can tackle something like this. This was the third lined jacket I have made and definitely a challenge but in a good way, you learn a lot. For example this was the first time I have ever hand hemmed anything (sleeves). Just be prepared to do some reading, referencing and prep and be prepared for some frustration in just figuring out how to make it all work and in my case, make DH happy. : )
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