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Pattern Reviews> Butterick> 5678 (Misses'/Misses' Petite Shirt and Sash)

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Review submitted in 2014 Fitted Blouse - Skill Level BEGINNER Contest
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Reviewed by:MrsCharisma
Friend of PR

About MrsCharismastarstarstarstar
Member since: 2/1/13
Reviews written: 139
Sewing skills:Intermediate
Favored by: 62 people
patterns reviewed: 136
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Posted on:3/30/14 6:08 PM
Project Photo:Butterick: 5678 by MrsCharisma

Butterick: 5678 by MrsCharisma  Butterick: 5678 by MrsCharisma  
Pattern Photo:Butterick 5678
Butterick Pattern Info
Pattern Rating:Great Wardrobe Builder
Review Rating: Helpful by 3 people    Very Helpful by 20 people   
See other patterns in this category: Tops    
Current Tags What is a Tag:
Fabric:Shirting - Cotton  [See other projects in this fabric]
If you head to the contest discussion page, there is a new request to summarize why you chose your category for the contest.

I chose to enter my shirt in the Beginner contest because I rank myself, fully and completely, as an Advanced Beginner. I have learned a lot in the last year since I started sewing. And while I am picking up tips and techniques and new skills all the time, I think Advanced Beginner best summarizes my overall garment sewing experience. I feel this way based on overall fit, fabric/pattern knowledge and construction methods.

Pattern Description:

Semi-fitted shirt has shoulder princess seams and stitched hems. B: button tab belt carriers. C: roll up option with button tab on sleeve. A/B, C, D cup sizes.

Pattern Sizing:

6-14 and 14-20; with A/B, C, D cup sizing. I cut a 14D and graded to a 16 through the waist and hip.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

I didn't sew a straight view from the envelope. I guess view A with a collar or view C with no sleeve tabs

Yes it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes. There are a LOT of elements to sewing this shirt and I think the instructions did a good job walking you through.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

Funnily, I had a short list of dislikes from the last time I made this shirt. As I look at them (written down), I don't feel the same way now!

-Continuous lap: I would like to try a tower placket, but I don't hate it. It sewed in no problem this time.
-Folded button band: I do like a separate piece but I was making the folding unnecessarily complicated before.
-Length: I like the finished length. It can be left out or tucked in (and stay tucked).

Other likes; LOVE the curved hem and the close fit.

Fabric Used:

Shirting from Hancock fabrics. It's been in the stash for awhile. I assume it's a poly/cotton mix as it came out the dryer with virtually no wrinkles.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

Based on my prior wearable muslins; I decided I needed to do a narrow shoulder adjustment of 1/2", lower the bust point of the princess curve 1" ( Thanks L! ) and took about 1/2" out of the sleeve cap height. What I did not account for was the decrease in sleeve length after doing this adjustment. The sleeves are JUST right! I lucked out!

Narrow shoulder

Lower bust point

Sleeve cap

I also sewed the princess seams with 1/2" seams (vs 5/8") after reading Mary's post on Idle Fancy

It really made a difference in ease of sewing the seams. It was "painless"!

I did not clip the princess seams. I did not topstitch the seams. I used a contrasting interior collar stand and cuffs. I serged all the interior seams.

I interfaced the buttonhole side of the button band because it just seemed sort of flimsy even with several layers of fabric. I think my buttonholes came out really well due to this decision!

I spaced the buttons 3" apart (the pattern had them spaced 3.5" apart). I felt this was better for my full busted self.

I wish I would have followed my instincts and interfaced both sides of the collarstand. My "public" side is kind of wavy-likely due to stretching while pressing things out. It was VERY hard to get it somewhat smooth.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I think this pattern is on its way to being a TNT (still need a swayback adjustment). I would recommend it but even me, the anti-muslin lady says, make a muslin!!


I am really, really proud of my work on this top! I swear I unpicked and restitched the topstitching on the cuffs like 6 times! This forced me to learn to use my walking foot - yay!

I had to unpick serger stitches after sewing AND serging my sleeve inside out (thankfully I had a full 3/8" sa for re-sewing).

Another tip used: By Hand London's tip for sewing curved seams. I serged my edge (giving me a 1/4" line) and pressed, then turned again and pressed. This was SO much easier compared to all the futzing I did with the last version trying to get the fullness of the curve to turn in.
Curved Hems

Collar & stand

Merchants on PR

Patterns from the Past

vintage sewing patterns

Reconstructing History

Reconstructing History
Web site

Elliott Berman Textiles

Fabrics for Greater Ideas

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60 Comments      Login to Add a Comment
Sheenagh said...
Love it! All that hard work and attention to detail pays off! You look great :)
3/30/14 6:15 PM
Sew Whatever said...
This style really suits you!
3/30/14 6:28 PM
the_caroler said...
Very nice looking!
3/30/14 6:37 PM
kajero said...
Awesome. Looks wonderful on you! The details are great! MrsCharisma . . . You are such an excellent seamstress I am becoming afraid to meet you!
3/30/14 6:41 PM
supizoo said...
Oh my! This is really really good. The shape, fit, fabric, everything is beautiful. That collar stand and cuff: beautifully done!
3/30/14 6:47 PM
Jrhee said...
Love your blouse! I might have to copy your white cuffs and neck band facing someday!
3/30/14 6:57 PM
Twinset said...
3/30/14 7:06 PM
TJSEWS said...
Wow - this shirt fits you beautifully. And I love the white contrasting cuffs and stand. I love the stripe fabric. I love everything about it. Fabulous!
3/30/14 7:22 PM
Lagolden2 said...
I love those princess seams- when done right you get a close fit- that shirt looks so smart-
3/30/14 7:28 PM
Christas said...
VERY nice work! Your new blouse looks fantabulous on you! :-)
3/30/14 7:42 PM
jannw said...
Great job!! Love the contrast and your top stitching is beautiful!
3/30/14 7:49 PM
tlc246 said...
3/30/14 8:01 PM
MrsCharisma said...
Thank you everyone for the kind words!
3/30/14 8:35 PM
MaryMacTree said...
Nice! Wow what a beautiful top. Well done!
3/30/14 9:30 PM
imsewcrazy said...
Beautiful! This is so well made! It looks great on you!
3/30/14 10:00 PM
ArtAttack said...
Great looking shirt! Very crisp and smart with the white collar and cuffs. Looks like you achieved a really good fit, too!
3/30/14 10:01 PM
slmstyle said...
Great shirt! It looks so professionally made, I have a shirt just like this I bought at Ann Taylor! Well done. Best of luck in the contest :)
3/30/14 10:50 PM
Aixoise said...
Beautiful! Your collar points, topstitching - all the details - are superb. I vote for a promotion - to Intermediate at least. Lovely shirt making.
3/30/14 11:52 PM
RMJ said...
Great fit and love the contrast
3/31/14 0:12 AM
wildberrymom said...
Nice shirt--great job!
3/31/14 1:02 AM
Margie T said...
Great job! A beautiful shirt with a great fit. Congratulations!
3/31/14 1:09 AM
SewLibra said...
What a great shirt and equally great review! Thank you for all the links. Your shirt fits you so well, as it should for a fitted shirt. Wonderful job on the alterations, stripe matching, and contrast fabric.
3/31/14 2:14 AM
Quickie said...
Lovely shirt and great work with the fitting and the stripes
3/31/14 2:27 AM
persevering said...
Congratulations - your well-fitted beautiful shirt is awesome!
3/31/14 4:25 AM
Danvillegirl said...
Very nice shirt! Really flattering on you!
3/31/14 5:29 AM
msschiel said...
Very nice! Good job matching up the stripes! I had started muslin with a similar butterick pattern, but haven't had time to work on it!
3/31/14 6:02 AM
trinicity said...
very cute shirt, love the white contrast.
3/31/14 7:10 AM
Sheila457 said...
Lovely shirt.
3/31/14 7:26 AM
knitmachinequeen said...
Love it. The contrasting collar and cuffs made this super special. It's looks like high-end RTW and fits you perfectly. You did an awesome job. TFS
3/31/14 7:43 AM
LlanoGirl said...
Beautiful job, I am really impressed with your shirt. Fits you great!
3/31/14 8:16 AM
MrsCharisma said...
THANK YOU! SewLibra I normally breeze through so many sites in a day but this time I remembered to keep track of where I got my tips so I could link up! I am always grateful when people do that so I wanted to be sure I remembered :) Oh Aixiose I think about it and then realize all the stuff I do not know! :)
3/31/14 9:03 AM
kjcaron said...
Beautiful blouse! You did a fantastic job on it!
3/31/14 9:31 AM
threaddy said...
Fantastic review...very thorough and helpful. The blouse/shirt looks great on you. It fits very well and is sewn showing much skill. BRAVO!!!!
3/31/14 9:50 AM
Barbara V said...
Your shirt looks terrific on you. All of your careful alterations resulted in a perfect fit!
3/31/14 9:54 AM
sewmytime said...
3/31/14 10:03 AM
CraftAddict said...
Great fit!
3/31/14 10:44 AM
annem54 said...
This is a beautiful blouse and it fits well. I will try the tips you mentioned next time.
3/31/14 10:56 AM
KensingtonCrab said...
Wow! How great is that!!??
3/31/14 1:27 PM
ntpolite said...
Awesome. I'm so impressed. you did an excellent job. looks like a RTW dress shirt I have in my closet now.
3/31/14 1:51 PM
detroy said...
It looks great - and so fabulous on you!
3/31/14 2:01 PM
Alpine Queen said...
Great job, great fit, loved the contrasting parts. I also like how you're not afraid to do a snug fit despite a blessed chest. Thanks for the link giving additional info on doing an FBA. Most sites keep the enlarged waist, I also don't have a big ribcage. It looks like this pattern just has a turned under front band then topstitched. Have you ever allowed a bit extra then enclosed the raw edge in a tuck, giving the illusion of a separate band? Makes for a nice finish if you don't have to match a vertical pattern and helps keep a horizontal pattern in line. I copied that idea from my hub's RTW shirts many years ago.
3/31/14 2:06 PM
MrsCharisma said...
Thanks everyone! Alpine Queen, that is a great suggestion and I hadn't thought of that. I totally had one of my husband's shirts nearby too, looking at details as I went!
3/31/14 2:53 PM
jdk said...
I've been wanting to make this shirt, so your review is right on time. Great looking/fitting shirt!
3/31/14 3:41 PM
1SewSweet said...
Oh my goodness, what more can be said about this BEAUTIFUL shirt you created! I love everything about it! Can you make me one too?? I think I'm going to have to borrow your idea because this truly is a GREAT one!
3/31/14 8:51 PM
clothingengineer said...
You did a fantastic job!
3/31/14 8:59 PM
Erin Sooit said...
What a great blouse! Thanks so much for your review, now I want this pattern! You look very pleased in your pics, and I think it's because you've sewn a winner blouse!
3/31/14 11:28 PM
MrsCharisma said...
Thank you everyone! oh Myra, you make me blush!
4/1/14 9:14 AM
Baja Susana said...
This is a winner. I love stripes, and the crisp white collar and cuffs are perfect. This fits you well, and your smile shows that you are pleased with the result. Good work.
4/1/14 9:25 AM
TammyMJZ said...
Love this shirt! Great job on the stripes too.
4/1/14 1:05 PM
beanchor said...
This is great! Good Job!
4/1/14 6:04 PM
sanntech9 said...
Love the cuff and white on collar stand makes the blouse stand out
4/2/14 10:22 PM
MrsCharisma said...
Thank you! I really love it!
4/3/14 6:21 AM
Eli cat said...
Perfect!I love it! I will get the pattern!
4/3/14 7:05 PM
acmena said...
Great work, MrsCharisma. Hard to believe you have been sewing for such a short time. I have two tips that might help with those pesky cuffs. I find it easier to edge stitch than topstitch, using my blind hem foot, needle to the left and blade to the every time. To get around the right angle bend at the bottom of the cuff, without the fabric digging into the feed dogs, thread a needle with a piece of thread 12-18" long. Align the ends and take a stitch through the cuff at the corner. Align the loose ends with the needle end, so that you have 4 threads to grab onto. Stitch to the corner, turn, grab the threads and pull in the opposite direction to which you are stitching, guiding the cuff with your free hand. After stitching about 2" along the bottom of the cuff, pull out the thread and repeat at the next corner. This works for collar points as well.
4/4/14 5:29 AM
MrsCharisma said...
Thanks! acmena - thank you for the detailed tip! I am filing that away!!
4/4/14 10:43 AM
Margaret said...
Very nice! Great fit!
4/6/14 10:11 AM
mnitts said...
This looks so sharp. Well done!
4/6/14 4:43 PM
MrsCharisma said...
4/7/14 4:28 PM
Bon.the beginner said...
Beginner? Bah! Your talent belies that of a beginner... you've mastered so many difficult techniques in one piece. Amazing work!
4/22/14 9:33 AM
MrsCharisma said...
Thank you!!!
4/23/14 12:24 PM
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