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Pattern Reviews> Simplicity> 4698 

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Reviewed by:cakehole

About cakeholestar
Member since: 12/22/05
Reviews: 12 (patterns: 10)
Skill level:Intermediate
Favored by: 6 people
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Posted on:3/10/07 10:18 AM
Last Updated:3/10/07 10:18 AM
Review Rating:
Helpful by 3 people    Very Helpful by 13 people   
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23 Comments      Login to Add a Comment    
OP Gal said... (4/20/07 7:41 AM) Reply
Great jacket. I don't have anything to add regarding the back issues. I think they've been pretty well covered. But, I think you did a great job and you're right, it looks wonderful from the front.
LiZ said... (3/12/07 4:05 PM) Reply
Great jacket, it is good that you were able to make it out of something that didn't work for you.
cakehole said... (3/12/07 10:25 AM) Reply
Thank you all very much for your very kind and helpful comments!
patsijean said... (3/11/07 3:21 PM) Reply
Your garment has bias fold wrinkles at shoulder, back waist, and to some extent, front waist. These bias fold wrinkles indicate that the garment is too long and too wide in those areas, and that your shoulders are slightly sloping. The easiest way to fix this is to trace your patterns on another sheet of paper. Draw a new, lower shoulder line to take up the shoulder seam, tapering back to the original seamline at the neck. Pinch up the shoulders to give yourself an idea about how much to take off and then take off a bit less. Place the original pattern on top matching the shoulder/armhole seam line only by sticking a pin in that point, then pivot the pattern to meet the side seam and draw in the new armhole seam. (For a princess seam garment you will have to have both pieces of new and original patterns pinned together at the armhole about 1 inch down.) Cut a muslin of the back and front pieces, machine baste and try on. You may not have to adjust the front shoulder. The waist bias folds may indicate a need to taper the waistline returning to the orginal back length (don't over fit). Take advantage of the fact that you can slash and taper both back pieces, but only the side front pattern piece if necessary. Make a new muslin out of cheap fabric and see how that goes. It is hard to tell if your shoulder seam is right at your shoulder joint, but I think it is. You are correct that you will need to make some width adjustments in the back below the waist. I would determine the amount you wish to add and then divide by 6 and add this amount to each seam or cut the second muslin above with extra wide seam allowances so that you can release the seams and spread--then transfer the adjustments to your new pattern. This is a simplified description of the adjustments you might need to make. I found this information in the "Sew Fit Manual" by Ruth Oblander and Joan Anderson. My copy dates from 1993 and may be out of print, but is still available at --I just checked and I wish mine had a spiral binding. This won't take as much time as it sounds, and you will have a great TNT pattern when you are done. Don't forget to check the flat pattern measurements and compare to yours before you start. Don't ask me how I know this.
Danvillegirl said... (3/11/07 8:11 AM) Reply
I love tis jacket pattern, but hate that back half lining piece. I think JuliaS is correct in both counts, since the wrinkling is more to the hip back instead of the center then it is probably a need for more hip room as it is normally for me also. You may need to do an upper narrow back adjustment at the armhole, best explained in the Fit For Real People book. You can also add shoulder pad and that would help pull it up but may affect the front. Lovely job on the jacket. I think it makes a great statement for casual look!
Jane S said... (3/11/07 8:08 AM) Reply
Your jacket looks lovely and your next one will be even better. This pattern is a real winner for me, too, and I think the bust cup sizing choices would have kept it as a standard in the catalog.
Karen8320 said... (3/11/07 4:01 AM) Reply
Cakehole, you've done a great job with this pattern and it looks terrific from the front. Thanks to your review and the suggestions of others, I continue to learn more about fitting and the entire tailoring process. Once you have your fitting issues sorted out, I can see this will look gorgeous on you.
gabrielle said... (3/10/07 5:33 PM) Reply
I think it looks great, and I regret I've procrastinated so long buying this pattern. I hope I can still find a copy. Re: fit issues, it looks to my novice eyes like you might need a little more room in the hips. The linen might also be hanging up a bit on your jeans, too--I notice it's not hanging quite straight in back, so maybe the fabric is catching and bunching a bit?
Re Becca said... (3/10/07 4:11 PM) Reply
Very cute! and nice for any time of year. I have a Vogue designer pattern that has the seperate collar on the jacket piece that I am sure I paid a lot more for than you paid for this, and I hope mine turns out half a good. I think that they do it seperately so that it will curve around better. As for the underarm wrinkles, you may try pinning them out and seeing how well you can move your arms without that extra room. I remember making long-sleeved wedding dresses and taking out that extra fabric only to addit back in so that they could raise their arms. As for the diagonal line, try taking a little off the top of the back shoulder seam. PERSONALLY, I think it looks fabulous.
mochalover said... (3/10/07 3:24 PM) Reply
I agree great jacket. I definitely agree with Annette1 I have this same pattern I am going to pull it out and try it too. You have inspired me!
cda said... (3/10/07 2:38 PM) Reply
Looks absolutely amazing!! I would guess that the wrinkles in the back are due to narrow shoulders, narrow back. I highly recommend doing a fitting shell pattern (like McCall's 3740 or Vogue 1003, 1004). They will teach you more than you ever wanted to know about your body shape. Just keep track of all alterations you make to it—those are the same alterations you'll make to fashion patterns.
Karla Kizer said... (3/10/07 2:32 PM) Reply
I think you need the length in the upper back, but not the lower back. A swayback adjustment just above the waist would remove fullness in the hollow of your back and raise the hip fullness in back a little. A great-looking jacket, though. Makes me wish I had bought more of that stretch linen I found... Thanks for the review.
Geordie Girl said... (3/10/07 1:58 PM) Reply
Lovely jacket. Thanks for the great review
Linda G said... (3/10/07 1:20 PM) Reply
I think you wrinkles in the upper back are because you need to do an adjustment for a slightly round upper back...this is a very common adjustment need for even very young people...especially if you are at a computer or a sewing machine a lot...using FFRP book to help you with that...I do not think it is the armhole.
Annette1 said... (3/10/07 1:15 PM) Reply
I believe I have this pattern, and you've inspired me to drag it out and take another look. I LOVE yours, everything about it: the fix, the length, the fabric, everything. Very helpful review!
Cheryl Reeves said... (3/10/07 1:08 PM) Reply
Pretty jacket and it looks good on you.
Dee2 said... (3/10/07 12:07 PM) Reply
Very nice jacket & good use of your black linen. Makes a great wearable muslin.
MarthaMcKeon said... (3/10/07 11:46 AM) Reply
very nice work - have you tried using a shoulder pad or thicker pad for those problems you're having with the back wrinkles?
CarolynGM said... (3/10/07 11:26 AM) Reply
Well done, cakehole. As for the wrinkles, I think some of them are caused by the armhole needing to be lowered. You could also try bigger shoulder pads to see if that helps.
suzanrossi said... (3/10/07 11:00 AM) Reply
Very nice! I'd like to know about the fitting issues in the back too. Wrinkles are supposed to point to the seam that needs adjusting, right? It seems to point to the back armhole but, goodness, what do you do then? Let's see what others have to say. This looks beautiful anyway on you.
Soliel said... (3/10/07 10:56 AM) Reply
Cute! It's still good to "Recommend" a pattern if it's OOP. Many have already have it and not have sewn it yet and/or you can buy it or find it on Ebay.
cindy-lou said... (3/10/07 10:33 AM) Reply
Ooooooh, great jacket! Your tailoring is beautiful.
JuliaS said... (3/10/07 10:28 AM) Reply
This looks so cute and will really pull together a casual outfit! I am no fitting expert, but I would agree that the creases at the waist look like you need more room through the hip. The ones at the back of the armhole look like it might be too wide through the back and your arm/shoulder are smooshing the back in?
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