Burda World of Fashion Magazine: 03-2009-104 (High Waist Pencil Skirt) - Type:Skirts  | | Viewed 431 times
| 1 more reviews | Review rated Helpful by 1 people Very Helpful by 12 people | | Reviewed by: | nicegirl | 
 | About nicegirl | | DC USA | | Member since: 5/10/06 | | Reviews written: 145 | | Sewing skills:Intermediate | | Favored by: 153 people | | patterns reviewed: 145 | | Bio: more... |
| | Posted on: | 6/2/09 2:00 PM | | Project Photo: |  | | Pattern Photo: | Pattern Info provided by nicegirl | | Pattern Rating: | Highly Recommend | | NEW! See reviews of patterns from this issue | | | | Fabric: | Cotton-Lycra Woven [See other projects in this fabric] | | Related Links | Click on  to add a link |
| Pattern Description:
Misses' high waist pencil skirt has shaped waistband princess seams and yoke pockets. The pattern is designed with a side zip, but I added a center back seam and placed the zipper there.
Pattern Sizing:
34-42. I did my usual BWOF sizing--36 at the waist, 38 at the hip and in this skirt it is rather snug. Had I not used fabrics with lycra, I doubt I could wear them at all. With the lycra they have a nicely hugging fit. I have been feeling bloated lately but I think objectively my measurements are the same as usual. The magazine calls for fabric with stretch, so I think it is designed with extremely minimal ease. Keep this in mind when choosing your fabric; size up if you don't have lycra.
Fabric Used:
For the white version, a textured denim-weight cotton/poly blend with lycra from the G Street Fabrics $2.97/yd table. Waistband faced with stretch cotton twill from FFC, $5.25/yd, and front underlined with same. Skirt lined with white stretch cotton shirting from Chic Fabric in NYC, $5/yd. Total cost: around $12
For the blue version, a cotton/lycra (with possibly something else) blend from Paron in NYC, purchased at PR Weekend 2007 (the last of these fabrics still in stash!), probably around $4/yd, lined with a maroon stretch woven from the G Street $2.97/yd table. Total cost: Around $12.
Time to Make:
The white version with pockets took about 5 hours initially. This was an experiment in sewing during the week. I would sew about an hour a night. The next night I would rip out about 80% of what I'd sewn the night before. It wasn't quite successful.
Once I finished it, I found I had a huge problem with pocket show through. Many hours of alteration later, I finally had a finished skirt.
The blue version took probably 4.5 hours.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I had been impatiently waiting for BWOF to give us a high-waisted skirt pattern and was thrilled with this one. I love the shaping in the waistband and the pencil line.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, other than the omitted pockets in the blue version.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
I didn't use them, but glancing through them they seem adequate for BWOF.
Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
-When I made the white skirt as drafted, the pocket show-through was awful. I had fully lined the skirt, but most commenters suggested that I needed to underline the front between the fashion fabric and the pockets.
So I ripped some seams and cut out an underlining of a heavyweight stretch twill and pinned it in place. The situation was improved, but not fixed by any stretch. The pockets were not necessarily showing through per se, but the outline of the pocket was clearly visible because of the seam ridge.
I cut the pocket bag off one inch below the pocket line, and then I cut out replacement pocket bags of batiste. The big thing was that I cut them on the fold so that the bottom edge is a fold and not a seam.
-I stabilized the pocket opening edge with ribbon, but I might have eased the fashion fabric too much onto the ribbon and shortened the pocket edge. I also think I might have gotten the pocket placement on the side seam wrong, and placed the pocket below where it should be. At any rate, there was some kind of problem in the pocket area and the side seams were crumpling between the pocket placement line and the waistband. So I decided to go slapdash. I sewed boning into the side seams.
-Rather than calling for lining, the original design is just for a waist facing. I think that would look chintzy in such a structured style and I fully lined both of mine (love the surprise maroon lining in the blue).
-This calls for a side seam zip. With the pocket, I felt that would definitely be too much going on at the side seam, so I moved it to the back for the white version. This allowed me to add a CB seam, which I needed for swayback adjustment. After the weird side seam crumpling issues in the white version, I kept it in the back for the blue version.
-I used heavy interfacing on the outer waistband pieces, and the waistband has no issue staying up or crumpling.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I still don't have this pattern perfect. The front does not fit smoothly. There are wrinkles just below the waistband from the center radiating toward the side. Said wrinkles basically form an arrow pointing to my tummy (I meant to take a picture standing straight but forgot; it's really obvious when I'm standing straight). As I cannot stomach (har har) the thought of doing a full belly adjustment, I'm going to let this pattern go (and two is probably enough).
That said, I really like the skirts and will wear them regardless of tummy-pointing-out arrows. I recommend this pattern if you're looking for something of this nature.
Conclusion
These skirts ended up being much more complicated than I hoped, but the result on both is very stylish and flattering. I expect to wear these two skirts a lot as major staples of my summer wardrobe.
All photos are here and the blog post is here. | *LOGIN to add a comment to this review
*Only registered members can post comments to the reviews. Membership is free. if you are not a member, please Sign-up now! |
|
 Pattern with more than 5 reviews!
<< Previous Review Next Review >> | Reader Comments | | redhotpepper | 6/2/09 | Very cute. This one is on my list! | | * * * | | Leslie in Austin | 6/2/09 | Cute skirts! Love the pockets!! Not much help for this skirt, but the latest Threads has a nice article on preventing show-through on summer fabrics. | | * * * | | Christas | 6/2/09 | Both versions are very cute! | | * * * | | Sallygirl | 6/2/09 | So cute! I especially like the outfit on the left, so feminine. I may have the pocket show-through issue on a pair of Burda capris I have cut out. I'm going to pretend it's not there. :D | | * * * | | AnneM | 6/2/09 | Love the style. It looks great. You don't stand still in real life, so I doubt those 'tummy pointing arrows' will be very obvious as you move around. Good idea on the pocket solution (on the fold). | | * * * | | Ann Smith | 6/2/09 | These are terrific skirts. Don't worry about the arrows or the pocket issue. Who cares when the garment is so great? | | * * * | | JoanneM | 6/2/09 | Both look great. On my list! | | * * * | | MLoyet | 6/2/09 | Fantastic job on the skirts! I think they look fantastic. As for the "tummy pointing" I don't think I even would have noticed if you hadn't pointed it out!! | | * * * | | Karen6790 | 6/2/09 | Great save on the white skirt. I agree with weeknight sewing - I do a lot of it, but I save the projects that require real concentration for the weekends when I can both think and see straight. This is definitely a staple skirt, I might have to give this one a try. | | * * * | | Mufffet | 6/2/09 | They both look so cute! You couldn't tell how much grief you went through sewing them, as they both look so trim and well fitted! :) The white one is absolutely smashing!! | | * * * | | Linda L | 6/3/09 | Great looking skirts. I like lining the skirts, they hang and fit more attractively IMHO. | | * * * | | becca a | 6/3/09 | These are beautiful skirts and they look great on you. | | * * * | | Leora | 6/3/09 | cute skirts! | | * * * | | CynthiaSue | 6/3/09 | dang, secretarial skirt hotness! i didn't even notice this skirt now I can't wait to sew it!! | | * * * | | Kbenco | 6/4/09 | I really want to make this skirt now. Thanks for your thorough review. | | * * * |
|
|
|Login|Help]
