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Butterick: 5131 (Chetta B Dress) thumbsup - Type:Dresses    printable version
Viewed 975 times 4 more reviews
Review rated Helpful by 1 people    Very Helpful by 45 people   
Reviewed by:Debbie Cook
photo
Friend of PR
About Debbie Cookstarstarstarstar
FL USA
Member since: 4/11/02
Reviews written: 163
Favored by: 315 people
patterns reviewed: 150
Bio: more...
Report a problem with this review
Posted on:6/6/09 10:16 PM
Last Updated:6/6/09 10:26 PM
Pattern Size:Plus-Sized Regular 
Project Photo:photo
Pattern Photo:

Pattern Info provided by Debbie Cook

Pattern Rating:Highly Recommend
See other patterns in this category: Dresses    
Current Tags What is a Tag:
Fabric:Stretch Denim  [See other projects in this fabric]
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It all started with this inspiration dress.

Click Here for bigger website version of inspiration dress.

Next, was the pattern (this review).

And then the morphing, detailed below.

Pattern Description: From the Butterick website, "Loose-fitting, A-line, lined dress, mid-knee has neck and front band with button and buttonhole closures, above or below elbow sleeves and stitched hem. A: welt pockets. B: cuffs."

Pattern Sizing: Misses 8-22. I used the 18 for neck/shoulders and morphed bigger for lower body.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope inspiration dress once you were done sewing? While it's not an exact duplicate, I think it looks enough like the inspiration to know it's a knock-off.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, straightforward. Although the welt pocket illustrations probably could have been more detailed.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like how most of the work for copying this dress was already done for me.

Fabric Used: The pattern itself calls for knits, but I used stretch denim.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: Many. Let's begin.

1. Adding yoke seams front and back.

2. FBA

I drew the front yoke seam onto the pattern before doing the FBA so I wouldn't have to figure it out after I moved the pattern pieces when doing the FBA. Yoke Drawn

Then I did the FBA, cut away the yoke, and divided the dart increase between the sewn dart and the yoke seam. Dart division

Final pattern pieces

I thought I needed the extra width down the front from the FBA so I left that alone. However, I ended up sewing both sideseams deeper by about 1.5" to give waist shaping and to remove some of the excess-to-me skirt flare.

3. Adding princess seams to the lower back. The inspiration dress has princess seams front and back, but I thought all the big red buttons would draw attention away from the vertical front seams so I didn't bother.

Back view

I realized too late that the inspiration dress has a much shorter back yoke, which I prefer, but I was out of fabric and couldn't change course. I'll live with it.

I also should have started with a size smaller in the shoulders because this neckline kept falling off me until I removed some width in the back by adding a CB seam to the upper back. Again, I can live with this. I'll never see it while I'm wearing it.

4. Creating slightly puffed sleeves

Sleeve

Sleeve pattern changes

5. Changing location/angle of welt pockets

You can see the top of the welt in this photo (I forgot to take pics of the pockets). You can also see my boo-boo. I thought I had measured correctly so the back and front yoke seams would meet at the sideseam. Apparently I was hallucinating that day. So, I just kept topstitching until they did meet. Oh well. We'll call it an intentional design element, won't we?

6. Using more buttons than the inspiration dress because I neglected to adjust the placket shorter (or change the bottom shape). Oops.

6. NOT lining the dress

Inside view

Side note: The facing fabric was 100% free. Fabric.com sent it to me by mistake a couple of years ago and told me to just keep it. It finally matched something and got used. It's a nice quality quilting cotton, which I did not prewash. But don't worry - I've already washed the dress because the stretch denim needed to remember where it belonged - and the cotton didn't shrink a bit.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I definitely recommend the pattern, and I just might sew it again myself. The inside-out view of this dress has caught my eye to make another version with contrast facings sewn to the outside.

Conclusion: I'm happy with how this turned out. It's going to be a nice casual (and comfortable!) dress for summer.

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Reader Comments
appleC 6/6/09What a cute dress! And a very inspiring project.
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Sew4Fun 6/6/09Wow great dress! I love, love, love all your added details. The fit is great and the dress is so flattering.
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grannytobe 6/6/09As always your work and fitting adjustments are "right on"! Love the dress.
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Em's Summer 6/6/09Cute summery dress!
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AquariJenn 6/6/09That's such a cute dress! I've been following along on your blog. Have fun wearing it this summer!
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Heatherrique 6/6/09Debbie, wow-zah! You are mesmerizing in this dress! Cool new profile pic ;-)
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marec 6/6/09Love this dress on you. It's very stylish. Hey, new haircut? Cute.
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Ody 6/6/09Wonderful dress and extremely helpful review. I love this pattern and thanks for sharing.
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Karen6790 6/6/09Fabulous knock-off. Looking at the original, I can definitely see why you wanted your own version - and I'm not sure yours isn't the better of the two! Those red buttons are just so cheerful.
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Izzie 6/6/09Wow! This turned out soooo good!
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sewbehind 6/6/09Very nice dress, Debbie. It looks great on you. I love your new hairstyle too.
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msladyj 6/7/09love this dress Debbie. Wow looks alot like your inspiration.
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Kayseri 6/7/09What a great looking dress. I might do this myself in summer (its winter in NZ).
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Leora 6/7/09Inspiring summertime dress!
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Annette1 6/7/09Well, you are just as CUTE AS YOU CAN BE in this dress. When I saw the pattern you had used, I have to admit I would have never even noticed that pattern until seeing your version. Even the INSIDE is inspirational -- ha! Great review, AS USUAL. And I REALLY like your HAIR. Maybe I'll take your picture to my hair lady and ask her if she thinks we can manage that. :o) 'Course, it's been so long since I've been there, she'll probably say, "WHO are you and WHO cut your hair?" (ME!!! Can't you tell?)
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Debbie Cook 6/7/09Thanks everyone ... but I have to tell you, it's not a new hairstyle. Same old, same old for the past few years. Even same stylist. Just a good hair day, I guess. LOL!
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michellep74 6/7/09I really love this. The pattern envelope does nothing for me, but your version is something that I would wear. Your dress is just ridiculously cute and flattering!
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Lori V 6/7/09Great job, the dress looks fantastic on you.
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TalyQ 6/7/09Debbie, that looks great. Thanks fro the step by step instructions for the alterations.
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kathleen1304 6/7/09Good review. You look very fresh and summery. And younger. Did I mention younger?
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Oceanpeg 6/7/09I like your version of the dress better than the pattern illustration. Plus a good knock-off and look alike. Job well done.
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Clareew 6/7/09Fabulous, I have just shown DD and DS because I was so impressed. They send you their 'that's brilliant' comments too.
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Mel.J 6/7/09Fantastic. As usual, extremely useful & informative review of a great dress. Thanks :)
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Meredith P 6/7/09It turned out great! Thanks so much for the detailing of the changes you made to make it like the RTW inspiration.
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Woolygal 6/7/09That is one great dress.
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Nancy K 6/7/09The back angled topstitching really does look like an intentional design element and it's a great save/change. It's a great dress and it looks great on you. Loose enough to be comfortable in the Florida heat, but shaped enough to be flattering.
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Shirleyjoy 6/7/09Thanks for the review. Looks wonderful on you! Just the dress for summer.
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Beek 6/7/09Great looking dress! I love the detail and the red buttons. Clever.
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Elaray 6/7/09You put quite a lot of work into this dress (from my point of view) and the results are fantastic. It looks so much like the inspiration dress! Great work.
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mary in FL 6/7/09ALL your design elements look purposeful, and I think it turned out great!
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clin 6/7/09You should be happy - this looks so nice on you - great knock off
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Sharon M 6/7/09It is lovely! I'm always amazed at your creativity and talent.
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kimmielovesparis 6/7/09How cute are you in your dress! Great job.
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ConnieBJ 6/7/09What a great, cheery, throw on dress! We all need more of those kinds of clothes- the kind that take no trouble to wear but make you feel great! Love the sleeve treatment, and I see you liked the dress enough to feature it in your avatar!
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Barbara V 6/7/09Great success from the inspiration dress. Yours looks fabulous on you!
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Grammy Gin 6/7/09Great copy of your inspiration dress! I love all the detailing. You are definitely an inspiration!!! Love your hair & new little pic...(can't remember what it's called) lol. vivitar?
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PVA 6/7/09Thanks for a great review, (as always!) This is my idea of a perfect summer dress -- A-Line skimming the body allowing for air circulation. Sheer comfort! I love the style -- a dress with a personality of its' own!
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gaginny 6/7/09What a cute dress and you do such great, detailed reviews. Very helpful, as always.
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Byrdie 6/7/09I love this dress! I love how you found a pattern close to the inspiration photo and made changes to make it exactly how you wanted it. You look really cute!
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papago 6/7/09Your dress looks great. I really enjoyed reading your very detailed review. Thanks, Laura
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Andreahg 6/7/09I LUV this dress! great work
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nancy2001 6/7/09With a great looking dress like this, who needs RTW?
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ZeldaDC 6/7/09Tres cute! I want one!
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mastdenman 6/7/09Great looking dress. Much better than anything I've seen in the stores.
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Linda G 6/7/09I have been watching your blog since you posted the sneak preview, waiting for the final post. I love this dress. You did a great job, thanks for the review. I always enjoy reading your informative recap of your sewing experience.
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persevering 6/7/09Congratulations on your dress! It is inspiring to see and read how you brought about this flattering happy well-fitted dress. Thank you.
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Rebecca D 6/8/09The dress looks very cute and comfy. And I really appreciate your thorough review. Each one is a lesson.
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DebJ 6/8/09Love the dress Debbie I may just have to copy your copy! I have a quick question for you. Did you basically do your regular sizing despite this pattern was for a knit? I realized that you used stretch demin, but was that enough to compensate for not using a knit? Thanks from another Debbie
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Debbie Cook 6/8/09DebJ - I tissue fit the pattern, and yes, I did start with my usual size since the pattern was loose-fitting.
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OP Gal 6/8/09I think you nailed it, Debbie, even if it isn't exactly the same. It looks enough like the inspiration dress that no one could tell it isn't identical. Great review, too.
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RLL 6/8/09Too cute! Very impressive review as usual. Thank you!
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Berniev 6/8/09You look great! The dress turned out super. It was a great review I was looking forward to - I would have never looked twice at this pattern but you always make me look at patterns with a new eye. Thank you.
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Katharine in BXL 6/8/09Yes indeed! A great casual summer dress. Love it! And you look so cute in it too.
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CynthiaSue 6/10/09Denim "shirtdress" but with a twist. Very current Debbie! And as always, the construction is impeccable.
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bconky 6/17/09I love it.
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4u2cme 9/28/09Great dress. I picked up the pattern after I read your review.
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