Burda World of Fashion Magazine: 02-2009-129 (Surplice Blouse w/ Midriff) - Type:Tops  | | Viewed 470 times
| 3 more reviews | Review rated Very Helpful by 19 people | | Reviewed by: | nicegirl | 
 | About nicegirl | | DC USA | | Member since: 5/10/06 | | Reviews written: 145 | | Sewing skills:Intermediate | | Favored by: 153 people | | patterns reviewed: 145 | | Bio: more... |
| | Posted on: | 7/15/09 8:50 AM | | Project Photo: |  | | Pattern Photo: | Burda World of Fashion Magazine Pattern Info More Info provided by nicegirl | | Pattern Rating: | Highly Recommend | | NEW! See reviews of patterns from this issue | | | | Fabric: | Cotton-Lycra Woven [See other projects in this fabric] | | Related Links | Click on  to add a link |
| Pattern Description:
Exclusive design blouse has front surplice neckline, raglan sleeves, gathering at neck edge on sleeves/back, gathered sleeves, and separate midriff.
Pattern Sizing:
34-42. I made a 34 at the top, transitioning to a 38 at the hip. It fits well, but as explained below could use some extra length in the bust.
Fabric Used:
A cotton woven with a little bit of stretch from Paris. I used most of it on last year's birthday dress. I paid 13E for 2.5 meters of it, so the cost of fabric for this blouse is probably around 4E (around $6.50 USD based on the exchange rate at the time), plus magazine subscription, zipper, thread, etc. it's still under $10.
Time to Make:
This was one of my Four Projects in Four Days over Memorial Day weekend. It took about 6 hours from tracing to completion. The cutting layout took a bit of time as I had to squeeze to get it onto my leftover bits of fabric.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I needed a pattern with a lot of little pieces and this fit the bill. Having completed it, I find the shape of the
back neck with the gathering very appealing. It's so simple, but something about the design is unusually nice.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, although I left off the bow as I thought it would not show up or would be too distracting in my busy fabric.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
I opted not to follow them for some parts, but other than that they were typical BWOF.
Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
-Copying from Allison C, I didn't use the BWOF directions for the gathered neckline and sleeve. BWOF wants you to neaten the raw edges of the fabric with a narrow zigzag and then use zigzag over shirring elastic to gather. Instead I added allowances for casings and used regular elastic.
The fronts are lined, so I first sewed the neck edge of the front and front facing and turned right sides outward.
Then I sewed the sleeve to the front, ending the stitching at the finished edge of the front, leaving the casing allowance overhanging.
Next I turned under the casing short edge seam allowance for a neat finish and turned under the long casing edge of the sleeves/back.
Finally, I threaded the elastic through and stitched it in place at the ditch at the front/sleeve seam. This creates a nice finish on all the edges and a clean, continuous look on the outside.
-I did my usual SBA of narrowing the bodice front darts. Oddly, I could have used some sort of weird FBA on this one because I found the upper bodice a little bit too short. Had I muslined (as if!!!) I probably would have added about half an inch of length to the upper bodice front pieces so the midriff would sit securely under the girls instead of creeping up over them a bit.
-I didn't really understand the point of the darts in the lower back, so I folded them out. To compensate, I added a center back seam and took an extra large swayback adjustment, slashing and overlapping right below the waist and adding the length back in at the bottom. The fit in the back is good and I don't miss the darts at all.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
This is a very sweet little blouse. I don't have any fabri that is calling out to be made out of it again, but I might make it again someday. I definitely recommend i to others.
Conclusion
This blouse was the perfect project for the leftovers of my Paris fabric. It's a very wearable piece that's great for work but still very cute. It's sweet without being too sweet.
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 Pattern with more than 5 reviews!
<< Previous Review Next Review >> | Reader Comments | | Christas | 7/15/09 | I love this top! It looks wonderful in a print! And it looks fantastic on you! | | * * * | | Busy Mom | 7/15/09 | I love it! The fabric and fit are perfect. I'm so happy to see your review for two reasons: I've had this pattern on my radar for some time now but worried about the fit on us gals with smaller sized girls so I think your review verifies that perhaps this pattern is sized on the small side. Thanks for a very helpful review. | | * * * | | Renren | 7/15/09 | Second time I've seen this pattern reviewed this week alone, and I love it every time I see it! That fabric is . . . awesome (a word borrowed from by 16y.o. dd, but one that feels right in this case), maybe even fierce. Fiercely awesome? Love it, anyway. | | * * * | | spottedturtle | 7/15/09 | I love your version of this! I like it without the bow. | | * * * | | Deb Thompson | 7/15/09 | Treena, this is a fantastic pattern and I'm so glad you had enough of the Paris fabric left over to whip this up. I can't think of a better, nicer looking fabric for this pattern! I've been admiring this top since my co-worker made it and wore it a few weeks back but now you have convinced me that I need to pull out this issue and make it! Bravo! Beautiful job. Thank you for the descript review with loads of photos! Very helpful!! | | * * * | | Mufffet | 7/15/09 | Love the fabric! Great fit - another lovely piece! | | * * * | | redhotpepper | 7/15/09 | Super cute! This is on my next up list. Glad to know about the short bodice. LOVE you shoes too! | | * * * | | sewbehind | 7/15/09 | Beautiful top. All your changes make so much sense. Thanks for the review. Love the fabric. | | * * * | | Knitters Delight | 7/15/09 | Very nice! Great pairing of fabric and pattern. | | * * * | | khunter | 7/15/09 | This is one of my picks for that issue! I have it in line to make. Thanks for the review it was very helpful. I will have to lengthen the bodice for me and I think I will alter the back as you did, for my sway back. Great review!! | | * * * | | Karen6790 | 7/15/09 | This is adorable on you, and I'm glad you found a pattern to use up the rest of that fabric. | | * * * | | Auntie Allyn | 7/15/09 | Very cute top . . . love your Parisian fabric! Perfect to wear on these lovely summer days! | | * * * | | Jali | 7/15/09 | I love, love, love your fabric choice for this top! I think your interpretation of this top is just so wonderful. | | * * * | | pterion | 7/15/09 | Very cute! I love the fabric. Very flattering style and color on you. | | * * * | | Mahogany Stylist | 7/15/09 | Cute top. Thanks for sharing the details of your construction method. | | * * * | | michellep74 | 7/15/09 | Really cute blouse! | | * * * | | Kristine Kay | 7/15/09 | Great top, I loved it when that issue arrived, but I finally have the perfect fabric and a helpful review to guide me! Thanks, and you did a great job! | | * * * | | cleverkitty | 7/15/09 | This is so cute and I love the style... | | * * * | | FreyaStark | 7/16/09 | A cute and distinctive top. Yours is much nicer than the original, which I find rather prissy. | | * * * | | Grammy Gin | 7/16/09 | Love your rendition of this top! Great use of your left over fabric, too! | | * * * | | becca a | 7/16/09 | What a lovely blouse. I love your Paris fabric. I have been wondering about this blouse, and I'm glad to see your informative review. I'll add it to my to do list. | | * * * | | kerrynw | 7/19/09 | Very cute top and fabric! | | * * * |
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