Kwik Sew: 3239 (Misses Swimsuits) - Type:Swimwear  | | Viewed 101 times
| 2 more reviews | Review rated Very Helpful by 6 people | | Reviewed by: | Mrs.Moos | 
 | About Mrs.Moos | | CA USA | | Member since: 11/5/02 | | Reviews written: 17 | | Sewing skills:Intermediate | | Favored by: 7 people | | patterns reviewed: 14 | | Bio: more... |
| | Posted on: | 8/21/09 1:48 AM | | Last Updated: | 8/21/09 3:03 AM | | Project Photo: |  | | Pattern Photo: | 
Kwik Sew Pattern InfoMore Info provided by Mrs.Moos | | Pattern Rating: | Recommend, with Modifications | | See other patterns in this category: Swimwear | Available for sale on PR: $10.99 (See envelope)  | | | | Fabric: | Nylon-Lycra [See other projects in this fabric] | | Related Links | Click on  to add a link |
| EDITED (a gazillion times) to make pictures work. One should not get their hair bleached and then try to write a review!
Pattern Description: Misses 2 piece swimsuits. I used only the pattern for the string TOP.
Pattern Sizing:xs-xl I used size medium --see below
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Kinda
Were the instructions easy to follow?Yes at least the ones I chose to follow which were few!
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?I didn't have to draw my own pattern!
Fabric Used:Nylon spandex swimwear fabric I purchased from eBay last year. Plus white Helenca swimwear lining from Lucy's fabrics. This is the same stuff you will find in Roxy, Billabong etc swimwear. I highly recommend it as it dries quickly and give a little body to your fabric. White rubberband elastic from eBay in 1/4" and 3/8" sizes
Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:OH BOY! Were there changes! First of all, the instructions have you sewing the lining to the fabric and then turning it so you have clean edges on the sides of the "cups". I did not do this. I cut lining pieces for the cups and then I cut another set of lining pieces and cut the "top points" off so I would be able to insert the foam "insert thingys" you find in RTW. (I copied this technique from Jalie #2446.) Open Pocket in Lining I layered the linings on the wrong side of the fabric and--I PINNED THEM TOGETHER which I never use pins so I was shocked at myself. I then figured that I would need 4 pieces of 1/4" rubberband swimwear elastic--just like the current RTW. Thanks to Belinda (Sew4Fun) I backed off the pressure on my serger presser foot to make this elastic bearable and now rubberband elastic and I are "kinda friends". I took the elastic pieces and tacked each end with needle and thread--very quick and dirty I might add--to each end of the SIDES of the cups. (Kwik Sew does not have you put elastic here but all the RTW suits I saw had it so... plus I think it helps with the fit IYKWIM.) I then serged them to all the layers at once while stretching to fit. I used my 3 thread narrow serge stitch set at the longest stitch possible in order to not have too much thread on the pieces. The machine was threaded with wooly nylon in the loopers and maxilock in the needle. BTW, I used a regular point needle. Before I go any further I must mention that I folded down the top of the PATTERN to allow the halter straps to be attached in this manner: I made the straps by cutting 1" strips widthwise on the fabric then folding them right sides together. I then used the same serger stitch to serge 1/4" rubberband elastic so I caught the elastic and left a GOOD 1/8" of fabric at the fold that was not covered by the elastic. I hope that makes sense. I DID NOT stretch fabric or elastic during this procedure. I left a good amount of fabric without the elastic at the end for turning. To turn this piece I attached a decent sized safety pin to the fabric and fed it back through the tube until the piece was right side out. This was a complete PITA and if anyone has a better idea please post it. There was much cussing going on in the sewing lair that night. I must say it does look exactly like the RTW strap I tried to dissect. I considered running the elastic inside a binding strip on my CP1000 and a binder but I did not want the CS to show and I wanted it to look just like the RTW suits DD has. Anyway, i cut two 24" pieces of the finished strap and layed them on top of the lining with the "seam side" up on the straps and tacked them with my Bernina. Then I turned the cup over and pulled the strap out so that it was laying in its "normal position"(up). I then started to coverstitch the elastic down. I used the narrow CS with Maxilock in the needles and wooly nylon in the looper. There were a few times I had to use a scrap to start the stitching since there wasn't much to hold on to. I CSed up to the top and then CAREFULLY "turned the corner" by going stitch by stitch with the CS. This went remarkably well--only took a few stitches and looks good. I paid attention to try and make sure I caught the raw end of the strap as I went around the corner. I completed each cup this way. I used the Bernina to do a tiny zigzag reinforcement of the strap to the cup--just for insurance and I am glad i did. You don't even notice it. I them serged the raw edges of the bottoms of the cups together and then sewed a 1/2" casing on this part. I made a strap using the same technique as the halter straps for the bottom tie. I used 3/8" elastic and cut the strip of fabric a GENEROUS 1 1/4". Much more cussing ensued in the lair as I turned this strap but it came out nice. I can't remember how long I cut it but I used pretty much all of the 55" width of the fabric. I fed this strap through the casings in the cups and cut and finished the ends with a fold over and a small zigzag. The halter straps I simply knotted on the ends. IMHO, the elastic inside the strap is a "must" on these tops--especially the "under bust strap".
Next were the "Foam Inserts". Now I am too cheap to buy a bunch of those swimcups plus they are a little TOO hard for me and don't look like the RTW ones. So I bought some 1/8' bonded tricot foam from FabricDepotCo.com. Bonded Tricot Foam 1/8"I fiddled around and made my own pattern--it looks LIKE THIS . I then cut out my foam pieces and zigzagged the them together using regular thread in the needle and white wooly in the bobbin (using the special bobbin case with less tension on it that I keep for "specialty threads" like this. It is worth it to buy one and put a dab of nail polish on it so you know the difference!) Here is the WRONG SIDE and here is the RIGHT SIDE (wooly nylon thread). Here is the FINISHED FOAM INSERT. I rolled it up right side out and inserted in through that opening that was left at the top. I used my hemostats I stole from my husband's fishing box to position the piece. It rides in between the lining and the "second lining with the point cut off". I am thinking of tacking these at the points since they get all turned around in the washer. It is nice to be able to take them out in case you a.) get sand in them or b.) wish to go "au naturale"--which neither I nor DD wish to do!
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?This top was the second one I sewed--it is for DD. I made one for myself--YEP -FOR 53 year old ME to wear in the backyard and unpopulated beaches. Mine was the "crash test dummy" DD's was the top part for a test of a "string bikini bottom" made of the same fabric (review to follow--i used Jalie 2446 but not their string version--I "modified" their regular bikini bottom). I made myself the high top bottoms using this KS 3239 pattern though and I may review them if I can get the courage up. For my size you could use them as a cover for a VW Beetle.
BTW, this string top pattern was size Medium and the only adjustment was the folding of the top to accomodate the strap. It is close to a RTW L or XL in Billabong or Roxy--KS runs big in swimwear top coverage compared to "modern" RTW. I am planning on sewing this top again for DD in several other fabrics and want to do at least one and bind the sides and make the straps using my eBay binder. Will post if I do...
I would recommend this pattern to others but using my modifications. The KS way would look too "homemade IMHO --but you never know. I was trying to knock off RTW. You need to have a little experience with knits to sew stretchy swimwear. It is a great project for the CS owners out there but you could also substitute a zig zag stitch for the CS and serging--except for the straps--I tried believe me but a zig zag just doesn't stretch enough. The RTW suits I saw this year were almost always CSed. I may try making this top and some bottoms using WOVENS cut on the bias--just like the good old days...we'll see!
Conclusion:
I want everyone to know that the "boobage flowers" are not as noticeable in real life. I planned the suit that way as this fabric's pattern repeat was too weird to do otherwise. I would recommend to trace the patterns on tissue so you can see the design of the fabric through the tissue. I did this and also flipped the pattern for the bottoms so that I had one whole bottom front and one whole back. That way you can place the design of the fabric to your liking. Don't want a flower on top of your crotch? This is the way to avoid that. I would also recommend that you draw a pattern for the cup and another for each of the linings (one set with the top "point" cut off to allow for foam insert ) and make the linings about 1/8" smaller on all edges so the lining is slightly stretched as you sew them up, edges matching--especially if you use this Helenca lining. I have orderd this lining in all the colors--white, black and nude. I have seen the black and nude used as lining for RTW knit tops and dresses.
But back to the pattern...this pattern is a great "starting point" for experiments and so far is a keeper. I am sick of paying upwards of $80 for the RTW when the materials I figured were less than $10 including everything. There is so little fabric in swimsuits!
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<< Previous Review Next Review >> | Reader Comments | | jilly cooper | 8/21/09 | beautiful and lots of good tips too | | * * * | | Flying Seamstress | 8/21/09 | What an awewsome job you've done here ~ and thank you for such a detailed review. DD must surely love this bikini! | | * * * | | calminatrix | 8/22/09 | it's beautiful! really! | | * * * | | beth5646 | 8/22/09 | GREAT review. Thank you for all the tips. That is a darling swimsuit. ( I understand about the "woven fabric swimsuit"!!! I too am 53 and have made a few of those in my time also.) After reading your review I plan to purchase this pattern and make some swimsuits for my daughter also. I appreciate the time you spent putting all the details in this review. I will use your tips and fabric suggestions. Thanks. | | * * * | | JEF | 8/22/09 | Wonderful review! I used that elastic in lycra turning method about 2 weeks ago for a pair of swimsuits - still to be reviewed. I totally agree it was a huge PITA but the look was great. Last night I had a thought about them (I know, it's weird to lie in bed thinking about ALREADY FINISHED sewing projects). What about pinning the safety pin on that section of elastic/fabric you use pull through so the narrow end of the safety pin will be going through the lycra tube? Then, use a wire loop turner to grab the end of the safety pin and pull it back through? I didn't use the safety pin when I did mine and my loop turner sometimes cut through the bit of fabric or elastic it was attached to - so I had to start all over over (like I said, the turning was a PITA). Maybe a combo of both of our turning techniques will be the key to success! | | * * * |
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