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The outfit looks very pretty in the photo. Perhaps it just doesn't feel comfortable? 1/4" seam allowances really beg to be sewn on a serger. I agree with you about a 2-piece skirt: a centre back seam is a necessity, IMHO.
1/24/04 5:56 PM
I've never used one of their patterns for wovens. I have had nice results with the knit patterns and wouldn't hesitate to try another knit.
1/24/04 6:20 PM
I'm sorry that this pattern didn't work for you. I've had this pattern for awhile and was planning on making the top. Rethinking that now. By the way, I've got some patterns over in the classified that are free except for shipping because they are too small. You're very small; see if you'd want them. I'm going to throw them away if nobody wants them this weekend.
1/24/04 6:20 PM
Drsue, where in the XS size range do you fall? KS seems to plan pattern ease based on the largest measurement in the size range; if you are smaller, then yes, it's going to be large for you. A lot of us go down one size in KS, especially in the tops; we are accustomed to buying RTW with less ease than KS allows. Unfortunately, since you are in the smallest size range, I don't have any bright ideas for you, and I regret (really, really, REALLY regret) that we do not share the same figure and fitting challenges. :-( The good news might be that you can cut these out as the pattern indicates, then use a wider seam allowance; that way you'll scale the garment size down, AND have wider seam allowances. Don't give up on KS yet; they are such versatile patterns, that if you can figure out what alterations to make, you'll enjoy them.
1/24/04 6:21 PM
druse the outfit doesn't look bad on you. when you are making a pattern for the first time a KS I would and do increase the seam allowance to 1/2 - 5/8 so I have some play in fitting the garment. alot of the wovens in KS I have have 5/8 seams.
1/24/04 6:42 PM
I think the skirt looks great on you!
1/24/04 7:06 PM
I like your outfit too. I also have problems with some of the shoulders/armscyes being too large, and I thought maybe I was just too fussy (which I am :) ) Without some fiddling I tend to get seams off the edge of my shoulder and little bat wings under my armpits. I am bigger than you, and usually cut a small or X-Small with a full-bust adjustment. I too wondered about the difference between flat-sleeve versus in-the-round sleeve insertion, and whether or not it makes a difference in fit. However, in general I like the pattern line very much.
1/24/04 7:39 PM
I cut the large in bust, x-large for hips and meduim for neck, shoulder, armsye and I also to the shortening between shoulder and bust. But I LOVE these patterns. I also usually have to add a dart. The simplicity of the patterns make them worth the extra effort to get a good fit. I think making bigger seams is just what you need to do. I will downsize and give you the bigger seams you like.
1/24/04 8:21 PM
Thank you all for your helpful comments. The idea of using a larger seam allowance is great and will solve my problem sewing 1/4" ones. It won't fix my shoulder length problem, but know that I'm aware of it than can be fixed easily. The armscye probem remains for me however. The top is definetly wearable but its just not up to the fit I try to obtain on my tops. I think I will try a knit top next and I will make the seam allowances bigger. Karla: my high bust is about 31 and full bust is about 32 which is in the low to middle range of the pattern. jlg: I'll check out your classifieds.
1/24/04 10:12 PM
drsue, I recently bought KS patterns, and the front and backarmole are the same length and shap, no good for me but I will try and morph from a burda pattern, as I liked the instructions and method.
1/24/04 10:16 PM
drsue, what is the fabric?
1/24/04 10:16 PM
Irene: I can't believe I didn't mention that! sorry. It is a rayon challis. very drappy. It should be good for this style, especially the top. However, front is cut on the bias and back is straight grain. this fabric on bias is very stretchy and sewing to a straight grain was possible but difficult. Made more difficult with the small seam allowances. That's why I used a regular machine for most seams.
1/24/04 10:37 PM
Sue, when I use KS for wovens, I always increase the seam allowances at the side seams to 5/8". Like you, I think it's more of a quality look and then I have some insurance if I need to let it out a little. Also, on wovens with a high cap I always prefer to set the sleeve in traditionally. I just think it hangs better that way. If I were you, I'd give one of their knit top patterns a try. Look for something that says "fitted" since you are so small you won't get so much ease.
1/25/04 8:20 AM
I don't seem to have the success with KS patterns that others do as well. Though comments submitted are helpful and I keep giving them a try. I always find their tops a little large for me and I need to do as others suggest and go with the next smaller size. Your skirt looks great though, I think the top is a little off for you and it would be for me also as I am small through shoulder areas and like a higher armhole. Thanks for sharing this information.
1/25/04 9:49 AM
Dr Sue, I always sew an xs with the stretch KS patterns and find them very consistant in sizing...although with the wovens I find I have to go up to a small, but still get consistancy with the small in wovens. I wouldn't say the patterns run large at all, but then again I do seem to be lucky in the fact that my measurements match the measurements on the envelope just about.
1/25/04 1:12 PM
I see what the problem is with the top - the front is cut on the bias and the back was cut on the straight of grain. That is why it was so big in the armscye. Perhaps the front stretched out and made it so difficult to sew. Sounds like there was an error in the pattern directions, to me! Try another one of their patterns. In the past, I made some of their skirts. They turned out great!
1/25/04 6:05 PM
I want to thank everyone for their helpful comments. I hope that other big 4 sewers who try KS will benefit from your comments as well. I think I will try the "infamous twin set"(2759) next, though I have a different KS twin set that I liked better (2875). I'll post after I make it up.
1/25/04 7:10 PM
Dr. Sue, the cut of the skirt makes you look very womanly. You may be used to an "a" line cut, but keep this look around too, it is a good one on you! Regarding the bias front and straight grain back, I thought the straight grain in back acted as a stabilizer. I am imagining bias both front and back would require a different shoulder line or the fabric would stretch out and fall off the shoulders. What do you think?
1/26/04 8:52 AM
Mollykat: I am warming up to the skirt. I have a rtw top with interesting floral embelishment at the shoulder that matches the skirt nicely. I think bias cuts are very difficult to do with a 1/4" seam. I remember reading a threads article about bias that recommended increase seam allowances to 1" for bias seams. The sleeves are cut on the bias too and they are HUGE!!! on me. Way too much ease and the bias makes it worse. I don't think I over stretched the seams, with the expection of the shoulder possibly, as I made them match to the straight grain. I just think the generous ease on this pattern does not work well on a petite figure.
1/26/04 10:16 AM
drsue -- I agree with with you that the top is too big in the shoulders and sleeves. However, the skirt looks fantastic on you! It is a great style for you. I've only made a couple of Kwik Sew patterns -- 2 bathrobes and 2 fleece tops -- neither required much fitting and 1/4 inch seams were adequate. However, once I try more fitted styles in wovens, I will definitely increase the seam allowances. I agree that 1/4 inch is too skimpy and can be tricky to sew.
2/1/04 6:59 PM
drsue, I just finished another skirt and top w/this pattern and yes, the 1/4 seams can be difficult with bias. I found that the best thing was not to try and open them, but zig zag them together, trim any trash, and press to one side. This made my seams look much better when I didn't use the serger. This top does have alot of ease, I agree.
3/1/04 1:56 PM