Vogue Patterns: 1126 (Tracy Reese suit) - Type:Suits / Separates  | | Viewed 235 times
| 1 more reviews | Review rated Very Helpful by 3 people | | Reviewed by: | Re Becca | 
 | About Re Becca | | TX USA | | Member since: 9/12/05 | | Reviews written: 62 | | Sewing skills:Intermediate | | Favored by: 31 people | | patterns reviewed: 50 | | Bio: more... |
| | Posted on: | 1/29/13 1:27 PM | | Project Photo: |  | | Pattern Photo: | 
Vogue Patterns Pattern InfoMore Info provided by Re Becca | | Pattern Rating: | Recommend, with Modifications | | See other patterns in this category: Dresses Coat/Jacket | | | | Fabric: | Wool Woven [See other projects in this fabric] | | Related Links | Click on  to add a link |
| Topper for my "Hire Me Now" job search wardrobe which I sstarted in Sept. 2009.
WIP made public because this is such a beautiful jacket and its not the patterns fault that I put it aside because I got a job. Since then I have gained about 25lbs that there just wasn't room for. This really is a nice pattern and if you have it in your stash you will really like it.
Pattern Description: Semi-fitted, lined jacket has princess seams, front band, wide notched collar, back tucks and pleats, back belt, two-piece sleeves and front snap closure with decorative button trim. Did I mention that the back is really cute and looks really wearable.
Pattern Sizing: 8 - 22. I cut a 14 and it runs a little snug through the waist, but fine through the shoulders. This pattern is very fitted with little ease.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? I don't think that the pattern sketch or the picture show the fact that the back band is narrower than the back is wide. This creates the ill fitting bunch of fabric under the right shoulder in the pattern photo of the back, but that would be easily remedied by making the back belt longer. Otherwise, the jacket is as short as it looks (I lengthened mine) and the collar really does look like the pattern. I also added pockets, but my tiny pocket flaps really don't disturb the lines of the jacket.
Were the instructions easy to follow? There are some things of note on this pattern:
* In the front, the band is sewn in between the upper and lower front pieces.
* The back band is loose. The upper and lower back are sewn to each other and the band is sewn into the side seams. You can't tell from the drawing, but the back belt is narrower than the jacket creating more loose pleats. I found this unsightly and added about an inch to compensate. I had to recut which annoyed me.
* There is no shoulder seam, the upper front is sewn to the upper back with that angled seam the connects to the sleeve about halfway down the back of the jacket. This creates a nice design line, but alterations to the shoulder bust be planned accordingly.
* The back neck facing is really funky. The lining has the same pleats that the fashion fabric has, and the back neck facing is just turned under at the outer edge and sewn over the top of all those pleats in the lining. They don't even have you trim the lining out from under it! I trimmed the lining, the fabric pleats make it bulky enough as it is.
* The back lining of the peplum is just cut from the same pattern as the peplum. They are pleated, sewn and hemmed separately.
* The collar is drafted like a shawl collar and doesn't have a peak to match the peak in the lapel. I was skeptical but it actually lays quite well creating a nice look.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? This looked like something that you could make in gray that wouldn't just put you to sleep. It looked like a fun, wearable, office worthy challenge. I LOVE the back pleats.
Fabric Used: Really nice gray/black wool twill that is almost heathered in appearance. I lined the body in the Wild silk charmeuse, and the sleeves in Ambiance rayon lining. I plan on making a matching shell from the leftovers.
I underlined the back with silk organza so that the pleats would be nice and crisp. I used pro-weft fusible (from Pam @ Fashion Sewing Supply of course) all over the front because the lovely gray isn't very substantial.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I added an inch to the length above the band. The waist is marked on the pattern an inch below the bottom of the band, and I felt that making it longer would be more flattering. I could add at least another inch and it would be even more flattering.
* Pockets! I have a pocket fetish, they don't have to be big pockets, but they have to hold ID and maybe some cash, plus I need a place to hang my dork tag. Not having pockets drives me crazy. I added pockets and flaps to the front below the belt.
I made a flap which I laid (RS to RS) on the bottom edge of the band (top half of the jacket), then I laid the suit fabric (back of the pocket) on top and sewed a straight line leaving the SA free on each end.
Clipped the SA to the seam corners like this.
Then I laid the front of the pocket bag (cut from lining) on the peplum and sewed the seam and clipped the corners.
Then I sewed the two sides of the pocket bag together. When you sew the top of the jacket to the bottom, you make sure that you stop at the edge of the pocket seam so you don't sew the pocket shut.
I have a much more detailed and lengthy description of this process in a skirt review here if you want more play-by-play action. Its the same concept and I use this process a lot.
* This is one of those patterns that has an unreasonably tall sleeve cap. I couldn't get it all eased in smoothly so I pulled it out, lowered the gathering thread to about an inch below the original seam line.
* The shoulders are incredibly square on this pattern, so unless you have "Encyclopedic" shoulders like me, you will need to adjust the pattern for that. This needs to be done in a muslin, there is no shoulder seam. I usually do a 1" shoulder adjustment, I didn't this time and I can still use shoulder pads. I could make them even bigger, but I'm afraid that The Texans would draft me.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? This is pretty distinctive, I won't make another one. I do recommend it for others. It is a nice, super professional suit that isn't stuffy.
Conclusion: There are some notable, distinct details about this jacket that I would like to point out.
* The back band is loose, and shorter than the jacket is wide causing unnecessary fullness and pulling.
* The stylized collar is created by the broad attached lapel, a partial collar stand, and an upper and lower collar that are very curved like a peter pan collar. I like the collar, but its a matter of taste.
* The waist is marked an inch below the waistband like I noted in pattern alterations, so if you are long waisted, prepare to adjust it.
I have this haning in my sewing room so closed to finished that it taunts me, but losing that much weight is pretty far fetched. Someday I may see if I can't piece some strategic places to make it fit, there's just too much else going on right now.
I was doing some maintenance of my photo album and decided to either post this or delete the pictures and that seemed like a waste.
I have 11 WIP's or UFO's that are taking up space in my reviews and I am either going to finish and post or delete them! |
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5 Comments
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It looks very good and what a great and thorough review. Hope you get your WIP's cleared out and onto other things.
1/29/13 2:07 PM
Very interesting jacket! It looks almost like a Marfy pattern. Too bad you didn't get a chance to finish and enjoy wearing it.
1/29/13 4:21 PM
Thanks for the great review! I love your jacket and I hope you do finish it and get to wear it someday.
1/29/13 9:45 PM
Very good review, hope you do finish it Good Luck to you!
1/30/13 10:25 AM
This is a definite incentive to get back into shape! It is a great looking jacket, beautifully sewn so far, with those extra touches that make such a difference. And the Pockets! So necessary! Very nice addition, hardly noticeable that they weren't there to start. And why are you rating yourself intermediate!??! All the couture touches and you'd planned to be a professional, so why not push that skill level to where it belongs? You reviews speak for your skill.
2/4/13 10:19 PM