Burda Magazine: 10-2008-128 - Type:Coat/Jacket  | | Viewed 560 times
| | Review rated Very Helpful by 18 people | | Reviewed by: | Nancy K | 
 | About Nancy K | | NY USA | | Member since: 12/28/04 | | Reviews written: 53 | | Sewing skills:Advanced | | Favored by: 67 people | | patterns reviewed: 47 | | Bio: more... |
| | Posted on: | 10/25/09 2:46 PM | | Last Updated: | 10/25/09 3:12 PM | | Pattern Size: | Plus-Sized | | Project Photo: |  | | Pattern Photo: | Pattern Info provided by Nancy K | | NEW! See reviews of patterns from this issue | | | | Fabric: | Wool Woven [See other projects in this fabric] | | Related Links | Click on  to add a link |
| Pattern Description: Using the pattern description is useless as the only thing of it that looks like my jacket is the collar. I chose this pattern for the collar and the front princess seams, which I like better than an armhole princess seams with my 36 DD bust. I was copying this Oscar de la Renta jacket that I found on Net a Porter for $1,990 Even with real Oscar de la Renta fabric from a sale at Fine Fabrics (and still expensive) it didn't cost me anywhere near what the original cost.
Oscar de la Renta jacket
Pattern Sizing:46-52 I graded down to a 42 in the shoulders and blended out to about a 46 in the hips.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? No. I only used this as a base for my jacket design.
Were the instructions easy to follow? I didn't use them, but I assume that they are typical of Burda, in other words a bit on the skimpy side. The construction on the Burda jacket is very different from the jacket I made so I couldn't have used them even if I wanted to. I wrote out a construction order so that I thought through the entire process before I started. Sewing without directions is a really good way to gain confidence and skill, but for something complicated, writing out the sewing order breaks down the garment into manageable pieces and makes you think about how you want to proceed. It also reduces mistakes.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I was copying the Oscar de la Renta jacket,and the collar was very similar. I find that it is easier to sew a significant fba with a shoulder princess seam, which the front of this jacket has. It also had an asymmetrical zipper front that I could work with.
Fabric Used: A black wool boucle with the plaid being formed by black lurex. I bought it on sale last winter from Fine Fabrics and it is an Oscar de la Renta fabric. Click Here that was pretty close to the jacket I was copying. In fact, when I saw the jacket on Net a Porter I finally knew how I wanted to use the fabric.
The lining is black silk charmeuse from Fabric Mart, also recently on sale. The original jacket has a silk lining (well for $1,990 it certainly should!)and there is nothing more luxurious than wearing a jacket lined in silk charmeuse. I think that I paid $8 a yard for it, which isn't much more than a Bemberg rayon and infinitely nicer.
The zippers are Riri zippers from Pacific Trimming in NYC. Like jewelry on my jacket, they are the Cadillac of zippers and if you zoom in on the original jacket you can read the Riri stamped on the pull.
I made a full pattern for this jacket so that I cut it in a single lay. This makes it so much easier to match the plaid. The other thing that makes it easier is not adding sas to the pattern pieces, but on the fabric when I cut out. I regularly do this, but for this jacket it made matching much easier. I used 1" sas in the bust and side seams and thread traced these seams to make fitting and sewing more accurate, Thread tracing is also easier without seam allowances on the pattern. It was easier to match the plaid this way too. I used tailor tacks the match points and marked the center front in basting. Again, this is worth the time because it made fitting much easier and boucle like this isn't easy to mark in other ways.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
As you can see from the original pattern photo that I made lots of changes.
The base pattern consisted of horizontal panels sewn together which I connected and then shortened the whole thing about 8 inches.
The new zipper runs diagonally. I didn't change the direction to mimic the de la Renta, but left it as right over left.
I enlarged the collar, but not as large as my inspiration jacket. I have very narrow shoulders.
I added vertical exposed zipper pockets.
Sew Excitings new sheer professional fusible interfacing was used to underline the whole jacket. I did not add any extra interfacing except for the undercollar's stand where I layered Pro Weft interfacing, also from Sew Exciting.
Now for the fit alterations:
lowered bust shaping
Fba
forward shoulder
rounded shoulder
straight back
narrow shoulders
I added a back dart for the rounded shoulder and then eased it into the front shoulder. I took advantage of wools ability to ease and shrink to eliminate the shoulder dart. I used stay tape to hold it in place.
Because I was using a full pattern I cut the right shoulder a little lower for my low shoulder and didn't add anything to the shoulder pad.
Sloping shoulders
I needed to grade this down to a 42 in the shoulders and upper body, but I need more room in the biceps. I know that a lot of people just cut a larger size in the sleeve, but I didn't want to add any extra ease in the cap so I did a full biceps adjustment on the pattern to give me the room I needed. I added back height to the cap.
I made a muslin for this and then instead of a second muslin, I fit the rest in the paper pattern, actually I made a second muslin of the sleeves only and after I had fit and sewn the shell I pinned in my muslin sleeves. I needed to scoop out the front armhole of the jacket to keep it from binding in this area. After sewing in the lining to the facings but before I hemmed it, I tried it on and decided I needed to lower the underarms about a 1/4' more. I have never had such an easy time of putting together a jacket. Why? I think I've finally found all my fitting issues and took care of them ahead of time which made the sewing so much less stressful.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I may sew this or a variation of it in leather. I spent a lot of time on the design changes and it would be nice to use it again. It fits really well and considering all my time consuming changes, it is worth making it again.
Conclusion:
The lurex makes it a bit dressier than I would ordinarily want for an everyday jacket, which this is supposed to be, but with all the metallic being used for daytime I figured I could wear this with jeans for everyday and dressier bottoms for a change into evening. I really loved this fabric
and decided that it had languished in my stash long enough. I don't think that I've ever been happier with a jacket I've made. The fit not only looks good, but it is comfortable to wear. One of the great benefits of having years of Burda magazine is that I have so many patterns available for a base when I want to copy rtw.
For more pictures here's a link to my blog.
Nancy K Sews
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<< Previous Review Next Review >> | Reader Comments | | blessedtosew | 10/25/09 | I love that jacket style with the assymetrical zipper. Yours is so pretty!!! | | * * * | | cabinbaby | 10/25/09 | Wow! Fantastic jacket. I love that collar. | | * * * | | marec | 10/25/09 | I love how you were able to use elements from various designs. It is always a pleasure to read your reviews, and blog, in order to see what we all could be aiming for. Beautiful work. | | * * * | | Andreahg | 10/25/09 | Very cute! | | * * * | | Riordan | 10/25/09 | Lovely jacket--it will be a joy to wear for years!!! Love the setting for your picture, too. Thanks for the review!
| | * * * | | Kim12469 | 10/25/09 | Beautiful! | | * * * | | Leslie in Austin | 10/25/09 | That collar is *great* on you Nancy! Killer knock off! | | * * * | | Erica B. | 10/25/09 | That jacket is is just stunning Nancy! | | * * * | | Vivienne | 10/25/09 | WOW! I love the style and your attention to detail with fabrics produced a fantastic, versatile jacket. | | * * * | | o3b | 10/25/09 | Fabulous! All the detail in your review is very inspiring. You reminded me that I should have added to the cap when I did a full-biceps on a knit top I just made. Hopefully it will be OK, though, since mine is knit. | | * * * | | ladylola | 10/25/09 | Amazing jacket! Love it! | | * * * | | sewbehind | 10/25/09 | Well done, Nancy. It looks fabulous on you. Love the garden too. | | * * * | | Sweetiebop | 10/25/09 | Great jacket. | | * * * | | Lilibet | 10/25/09 | Very nice. Edgy enough to be interesting, classic enough to wear for a long time. | | * * * | | Leora | 10/25/09 | Stunning jacket, very nice style on you! | | * * * | | Barbara V | 10/25/09 | Nancy, I'm impressed that you thought through and wrote out a construction order before even starting! Your creation is beautiful and I agree would also be great for a leather jacket as well. Wonderful work. | | * * * | | Robin Denning | 10/25/09 | amazing work, Nancy. Enjoy wearing this fantastic jacket. | | * * * | | Wino | 10/25/09 | Beautiful jacket! Love the zippers and collar. | | * * * | | MaryLynn in Long Beach | 10/25/09 | That's just stunning, Nancy. WONDERFUL job! worth two thousand bucks in my eyes. | | * * * | | Athene | 10/26/09 | Very good looking indeed, and I love your fabric. | | * * * | | senaSews | 10/26/09 | Wow, great jacket. I love it! | | * * * | | Ellenatlga | 10/26/09 | Fabulous, Fabulous, Fabulous!!! | | * * * | | Karine | 10/26/09 | Worth every penny and minute (hour) you put into it. It's so nice to wear something that you love that really fits. Thanks for the review. | | * * * | | Christina Sonja | 10/26/09 | Fabulous! I love all the designer elements - the couture fabric, the Riri zippers. And it looks great on you. | | * * * | | Catbird | 10/26/09 | Excellent jacket! All the design details and fine materials give lots of interest without distracting from the overall style and fit. Your hard work paid off! | | * * * | | mylittleelephant | 10/26/09 | I agree with the benefits of having BWOFs, they are so useful, I love this pattern in a magazine but yours looks better, love it. | | * * * | | CynthiaSue | 10/26/09 | well wow Nancy. wow!! not only to you get to be proud of perfect fit, you get that feeling of owning that $2000 jacket! you are an inspiration | | * * * | | quixoticpixels | 10/26/09 | Fantastic work, Nancy! Your jacket looks amazing and the fit is perfect. | | * * * | | Linda L | 10/26/09 | Great looking jacket!!! | | * * * | | HawkeMorningStar7 | 10/26/09 | Abslolutely stunning Nancy! All your hard work was such a success. Love the fabric and style...gorgeous fall backdrop too ! | | * * * | | pterion | 10/26/09 | Stunning jacket, Nancy! Really beautiful work. | | * * * | | Birgitte | 10/26/09 | Style in the garden ~ can you say Nancy K ~ down the path she goes ~ sashay, sashay, sashay :))
That's just totally fabulous and designer looking. WOW! | | * * * | | Marji | 10/27/09 | Fabulous Nancy! | | * * * | | DorothyK | 10/27/09 | Absolutely fabulous. You really nailed that jacket. | | * * * | | loti | 10/27/09 | Great review, lovely jacket fits like a glove, and thank you for the zipper resource! | | * * * | | Peter in NYC | 11/8/09 | Having seen this jacket in person on PR Day in NYC, I can say that it is a beauty to behold and looks terrific on Nancy. Amazing job! | | * * * |
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