Burda Magazine: 11-2009-122 (Trousers with Pleats / Hose) - Type:Pants & Shorts  | | Viewed 399 times
| | Review rated Helpful by 1 people Very Helpful by 6 people | | Reviewed by: | lara900 | 
| | About lara900 | | FRANCE | | Member since: 6/6/09 | | Reviews written: 21 | | Sewing skills:Advanced Beginner | | patterns reviewed: 21 | | Bio: more... |
| | Posted on: | 11/9/09 9:02 AM | | Last Updated: | 11/10/09 7:15 AM | | Project Photo: |  | | Pattern Photo: | Pattern Info provided by lara900 | | Pattern Rating: | Highly Recommend | | NEW! See reviews of patterns from this issue | | | | Fabric: | Boucle [See other projects in this fabric] | | Related Links | Click on  to add a link |
| Pattern Description:
Our Marlene Dietrich-style trousers/pants are perfect for an autumn walk in the park. Front waist pleats add extra elegance.
Pattern Sizing:
burda sizes 38 to 46
I cut a 42 at the waist, tapering to 46 at the hip, based on my measurements.
This was silly, and I needed to correct it when tissue-fitting:
These trousers don't sit at the natural waist, but below -- therefore I actually needed closer to a size 44 at the top tapering to 46 at the hips.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
yes, except that I elimated the cuffs and chose a very different fabric.
Note:
the feature photo in the magazine is correct, also the line drawing. However, the photo they have of just the garment shows a completely different pair of pants.
To compare:
feature photo
strangely different trousers by themselves photo
line drawing
Were the instructions easy to follow?
reasonably, yes.
However, I did not follow their order of doing things exactly.
Here's what I did:
I stitched the darts, the pleats, added the side pockets, then stitched the front and back crotch seams, inserted the zipper.
And then I pinned inner leg seams and side seams, and then stitched them.
Then I pinned the side seams of the waistband, fitted, and stitched.
Then attached the waistband to the top of the pants, sewed the lining pants, and attached lining and inner waistband in one go by stitching in the well.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked the wide fit with the pleats.
Fabric Used:
Wool Blend Boucle.
Honestly: I really can't remember what made me choose boucle for pants.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Because of the thick fabric, I decided on the following changes:
-cutting the pocket out of lining
-eliminating the turned-up cuff
-adding a full lining
-putting bias-binding on the lower edge of the inner waist-band instead of turning it under
-hook and eye instead of button/buttonhole at the waistband
-stitched the pleats closed at the waistband
I tissue-fitted, and did the following alterations:
-added 3 cm of length to the back crotch at the back center, tapering to zero at the side seams
-took out 4 cm of length
-Lowered crotch in back by 1 cm to make crotch curve go deeper
-Added 2.5 cm to back inseam
-Taken out 0.5 cm from front insesam
-Added 1.5 cm to side seams at top, both back and front, tapering to nothing at hips
-Lowered front by 3.5 cm at center, tapering to zero at side seams
-Altered waistband : added to side seams and to center front
Oh, and interfacing:
Burda tells you to only interface the waistbands, which I did.
I also followed Sandra Betzina's advice from Power Sewing, and interfaced
-the fly extensions (up to the fold line)
-the hems on the fabric pants (up to the fold line), so I could handsew the hem only to the interfacing
-and I added fusible staytape to top and bottom of waistband, and to the pocket opening seam.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I plan on sewing it again, yes, out of another fabric. And I would definitely recommend it to others. It's a great basic pattern, if you want pleated trousers.
Conclusion:
I'm not sure I will wear this out in public, and I can't believe I chose to make pants from boucle.
They are comfortable and nice to wear (lining, yumm!).
Let's just say they are a boucle muslin?!
And I have learned a bit more about pants fabrics: which not to choose!
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<< Previous Review Next Review >> | Reader Comments | | RLL | 11/9/09 | Looks like you got a nice fit. And I love the fabric, but I agree that pants might be a bit iffy with the boucle. In my case, I don't need any help with additional width on the bottom half. But it does look like you can pull it off. | | * * * | | marec | 11/9/09 | They look great on you. I would not need any more puffy but I don't see that as a problem for you :-) | | * * * | | michou68 | 11/9/09 | I think, they look quite nice although bouclé is an interesting choice ;-) Gut gemacht! | | * * * | | Elona | 11/9/09 | Regardless of the fabric, you got a very nice fit! Good work. | | * * * | | mhk3boys | 11/9/09 | Your fit is really great! Your pants are awesome! | | * * * | | MissCelie | 11/9/09 | Gorgeous pants! They look terrific. | | * * * | | pterion | 11/9/09 | Wow, you are fast - just got my issue! Your pants look great. Maybe you wouldn't choose boucle again, but I love that you did. Thinking outside the box is a good thing! | | * * * | | Knitters Delight | 11/9/09 | I really like how this one looks on you. Maybe the pics aren't showing what you feel - this looks nice to me. | | * * * | | SigridNL | 11/10/09 | Ah, these are the pants you talked about. The fit is really good, make another pair soon with a more suitable fabric. Good learning experience, though not what you hoped for. | | * * * | | figtree | 11/10/09 | Thanks for the review and pics so quickly. These trousers look very nice, I am making a muslin of them at the moment. What did you use for lining? Was it easy to add in? Thanks! | | * * * | | lara900 | 11/10/09 | thank you all for the kind comments.
@figtree: I used Ambiance (Acetat?) lining. Remember to add the pocket side piece to the front when cutting. I pinned the lining to the top of the pants, with outside waistband already attached, and then I stitched in the well from the outside to catch both the lining and the inner waistband. Hope this makes sense. (I did not follow the construction as given by Burda -- and I also eliminated the back seam in the waistband). | | * * * | | gatorgirl4325 | 11/10/09 | Who knows - you may find an occasion to wear boucle pants! The fit is absolutely fabulous and you did a wonderful job on construction! | | * * * | | Beek | 11/10/09 | Tehy look great. I thnk you shoudl wear them out indeed! | | * * * | | Mary Nanna | 11/10/09 | the fit on your pants is amazing - so glad you had to do so many alterations to get it - otherwise I would have been very jealous! Great job. | | * * * | | figtree | 11/14/09 | Ok, I think I get it :) Thanks for answering! | | * * * |
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